From what I recall of my '02 C190P, I don't thin there's any way to pull from the front without damaging the front ground effect cover, except for removing it before hooking up. There's just nothing solid to hook to that's low enough to be sure of clearing that cover.
And yes, RT is dam' proud of their plastic bits. I lost my rear battery cover once, and it was a bit over $500 for a replacement, including painting. That was 7 years ago. Dealer markup and all that.... They didn't even throw in the black trim strip.
Jim, "Of course I can keep secrets. It's the people I tell them to that can't keep them."
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com
You might want to get a couple of pieces of wood, that you can place behind the plastic, so that the tow cable/chain doesn't hit the plastic. Maybe some small wire, to wrap it in place while you are pulling.
If you think this is a problem that will happen often, you may want to see about investing in Tow Hooks that mount to the front bumper/frame. It may not look as nice, but it would be a lot easier to deal with in the future. They aren't very expensive.
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris / GS MJ Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie, Tugger & Beau RIP: Cookie, Foxy & Gidget @ Rainbow Bridge.
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008 FMCA# F407293 The Pets
May not apply in this case but no matter what the tow truck driver tells you, if he puts the front wheels on a dolly and tells you they don't need to be strapped or chained down when towing tell him he's nuts....
First turn the tow truck went left, my B went right.
I presume you are concerned about a breakdown on the road and needing a tow. In that case, you have the option of asking for a rollback (or lowboy) capable of handling the weight of your rig or perhaps a wrecker that can grab just the front wheels and lift it. Those units slide under the front of the van and have arms that reach out to the wheels. I’m just not sure they can carry the weight.
The dolley mentioned above is also and option. Whatever you do, you would need to tell them what you have and that it has very low bodywork in the front when you make the call. Also keep in mind that the drive shaft may need to be removed before being towed from the front.
For a variety of reasons, a tow as described among them, we're planning on adding a front mounted receiver for which the 2" "socket" will extend beyond the front "plastic".
Yes, we'll have to cut a hole in the plastic, but that's a small price to pay for having a FMR.
I couldn't find a "straight bolt on", like one can often find for the rear, so we're making a "universal" one work. We'll have to drill a couple of holes to mount it, but, it should work fine I think.
But, I'm not cutting the plastic 'til I know the FMR installation works.
In any event, I'll have a clevis to affix to an extension in the FMR, and the "tractor" would hook there. Just have to be careful to pull straight forward.
Tilt Bed and winch the Class B up onto the truck bed is the only way to move the vehicle to a repair shop. No Damage to the RV and I'm speaking of a personal experience when I needed a tow to a Chevy Dealer when I needed repairs. Tow truck operator was very careful and watched the cable every inch of the way.
Offline
FMCA# F407293
