Have a Holiday Rambler Imperial class A P30 Chev chassis, with standard 454 CI gasser and 450 auto, duals, four barrel carb.
Want to tow a Honda toad. Concerned about how the 454 would do towing a vehicle four down weighing a estimated 2800#. I'm sure it will effect my fuel economy and performance. Need so advise from some of you old school folks that may have had experiance towing with this type of rigg. Can this rigg handle the load, not considering the hitch, the hitch is rated at two tons. Any experiance you can share would be appreciated.
"KEEP THE GREASY SIDE DOWN" On and Off Again Full Timer, Workamper, 43+ years of camping experience, 21+ years towing 5'ers.
New Toy, 1988 Holiday Rambler Imperial, Class A, 34CS,P30 454V8 Chevy Chasis, Onan 6.5, Nisson Xterra Toad.
I have a 1990 Mallard on a P-30, 454, TBI, turbo 400 transmission. I pull a Honda CRV. It's no problem. My tow bar is a 5000 lb unit. I barely feel it back there. I don't think the 454 cares at all. The only thing I notice is in a cross wind on the highway it seems to be a little harder to drive as the toad seems to push the back of the motorhome aggravating the effect of the cross wind.
When pulling the toad I start easy and start stopping early(er). I plan way ahead in traffic and allow for cars to cut in, which they are going to do anyway. When pulling mountains I get over in the truck lane and keep the RPMs up a bit by staying ion a lower gear. When I hit the top of a steep downhill I have my speed around 35-40MPH. Then I just gear down and ease on down the mountain. It's easier to keep the speed down than to get it down on a downhill.
I don't have a camera to watch the toad and don't have any plans to get one. I can usually see it's shadow back there and I see it in turns.
One note, when you're connecting the toad to the motorhome do so without interruption. You really don't want to miss a step when hooking up the toad. It can get real expensive. If you get interrupted during the process start over and make sure you didn't miss anything. And, before you drive do a walk around and double check everything. Do a walk around even after a gas stop, or pee stop, or general purpose stop. I even keep a note in the ignition switch on the motorhome to remind me before I crank her up to check the toad to be sure the ignition switch is in position 1, the parking brake is off and the transmission is in neutral. Wouldn't want to drive 300 miles with the parking brake on or the transmission in park.
With all that said, you gotta have a toad. I wouldn't take trips without it. Well, I might take a short road trip but that's it. In fact, I have taken a few weekend trips without a toad but, anything more than that requires a toad for sure.
You should be good to go MH wise. You may want to insure you have fresh ATF in the transmission. It will work it a bit harder but no issue if it is healthy. Do you have a transmission temp gauge and good transmission cooling system?
Gale Hawkins wrote: You should be good to go MH wise. You may want to insure you have fresh ATF in the transmission. It will work it a bit harder but no issue if it is healthy. Do you have a transmission temp gauge and good transmission cooling system?
10-4 on the tranny temp gauge. Also have a external cooler and spin-on oil filter for the tranny. seems to stay well below 200 degrees normally. In traffic or pulling long hills I will get to 215 and I turn on a auxiliary fan for the tranny cooler, brings it right down.
Gypsy1 wrote: Do I really need a brake device in the toad??? I have the Mor-Ryde with tag axle both axles have brakes?
You would like my answer but law might not. 3800 on a tow dolly without brakes is not hard to stop I know but then that is not the worlds most safe setup.
Brakes can take some of the load off of the hitch when stopping or stop the toad in Break-Away conditions.
I'd worry about the brakes and brake fluid on the motorhome. That old brake fluid can be dangerous. It should be changed out every couple years. It starts absorbing moisture the minute it is first opened. And yes, you should have supplemental braking on the toad.
The 454 should handle the 2800 lb toad just fine. I bearly knew my Ford Focus (2600+) was back there with my old 454 powered coach.
Chevrolet has a limit of anything over 1500# requiring a supplemental brakiing system. You are double that with what gets carried in a car. It will definitely help stop you if you ever need to stop that fast.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
Gypsy1 wrote: Do I really need a brake device in the toad??? I have the Mor-Ryde with tag axle both axles have brakes?
You probably should, but technically may not legally required. If you want to know the real legal requirement, you need to know what your actual coach weight is, and then subtract that from the weight rating. If you have reserve, you can subtract that from your toad weight, to know if you exceed the maximum braking rating for the motorhome. In other words, your brakes on your motorhome have a specific weight rating. You need to know that the total weight of your motorhome plus your toad does not exceed the rating of your brakes.
BUT here is the real deal. Look up Ready Brake from Night Shift Auto. They sell a combination tow bar and braking system that is cheaper than some tow bars. It is an effective dependable system. There are many satisfied users on RV net who have this system including myself (although I have the older system). The whole setup including brakes should be less than a grand.
As far as towing, the 454 should be OK in most circumstances at near sea level. I would say that you will be on the very bottom of exceptable. If you don't want at the bottom of exceptable, or plan to drive mountains a lot, then look at dropping Thoreleys and straight through Magnaflows on it. That will wake things up a bit, and greatly improve drivability. Back when I was running a carb 454, I towed a Cherokee at 3100 lbs. It was pretty much OK. But as we all know, you can never have too much power.
Dave
The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
6% grade = wanna drag? MISC photos Revconeers Forum
Gypsy1 wrote: Do I really need a brake device in the toad??? I have the Mor-Ryde with tag axle both axles have brakes?
You probably should, but technically may not legally required. If you want to know the real legal requirement, you need to know what your actual coach weight is, and then subtract that from the weight rating. If you have reserve, you can subtract that from your toad weight, to know if you exceed the maximum braking rating for the motorhome. In other words, your brakes on your motorhome have a specific weight rating. You need to know that the total weight of your motorhome plus your toad does not exceed the rating of your brakes.
BUT here is the real deal. Look up Ready Brake from Night Shift Auto. They sell a combination tow bar and braking system that is cheaper than some tow bars. It is an effective dependable system. There are many satisfied users on RV net who have this system including myself (although I have the older system). The whole setup including brakes should be less than a grand.
As far as towing, the 454 should be OK in most circumstances at near sea level. I would say that you will be on the very bottom of exceptable. If you don't want at the bottom of exceptable, or plan to drive mountains a lot, then look at dropping Thoreleys and straight through Magnaflows on it. That will wake things up a bit, and greatly improve drivability. Back when I was running a carb 454, I towed a Cherokee at 3100 lbs. It was pretty much OK. But as we all know, you can never have too much power.
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