I have an '83 Ford Econoline chassis on my Class C, prolly an E-350 or E-450, I don't know which.
I bought new shocks for the front, and thought I could install them myself. However, there is minimal space available over the top of the road wheel, at the top of the shock, with no room to attach a socket or open end wrench to the top nut. I posted on the Ford forum, and no one there has a solution. I have pictures of the current shock on photo bucket, that I could post here, but I don't see how to do this on this forum.
Anyone done this job before, and know how to do it? I sure would appreciate some good advise. Thanks!
Welcome to the forums! Is this something you could use a crowfoot on? A picture sure would help. You can look up the procedure for posting a picture with a search.
Miles
Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO
if its like mine, i held the top nut with an open end wrench and turned the nut below the frame with another one. just screw the shock out of the top nut.
1999 Winnebago Minnie, 29', Triton V10, mostly stock. So far...
When I replaced the front shocks on an '83 E350 we owned, I used a flex ratchet and deep socket on the top nuts. It's been several years, but as I recall I was able to get a hold of the shock shaft with visegrips and twist a few degrees in each direction. Since the ratchet was set to "Off" only the "off" direction took effect and the nut came off.
The new shocks (mine were CarQuest brand, probably actually Monroe or Gabriel) had a hex nut built into the shaft where it could be turned or held to work the top nut
I know I borrowed the ratchet tool, so it's possible that what I borrowed was a "gear wrench" (ratcheting box wrench) and that's what I used to hold the top nut and let it ratchet.
The key to these seems to be getting something to hold the top nut and doing the "wrenching" on the shock shaft.
If your replacements don't have a hex on the top of the shaft, find some that do!
I dreaded doing ours, but it wasn't really that bad. I think it could be done with the wheels cut to one side, but I did ours while the wheels were off for another project.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
Good description. I don't know when they started adding the wrench surface to the shock shaft, but older ones didn't have it.
That first shock replacement (the OEM ones) used to REALLY be bad! I think what they did at the factory was install shocks with threads that ended right where the bushings were squeezed just right. They'd gun the nut down so hard with power tools that it'd gall a little when it hit bottom. Several years, galled nut rusted to shaft where you can't get at it, Yuck! Seemed like the little flat spot they gave us on the last 1/4" of the shaft to hold with pliers or a special tool they offered was the first thing to break. Once that twisted off it was time to get to the main event...
When I replaced mine, the old shocks (which I think were originals) did not have any type of hex nut on the top shaft. So I had to use vise grips, etc to get it off. The new Monroes had the hex nut. It was still hard to get a wrench in there, but it is possible. It just takes a little ingenuity.
1987 Coachmen 27'/ Ford E-350, 460 cid with Headman headers, and dual Flowmasters
tekrsq wrote: When I replaced mine, the old shocks (which I think were originals) did not have any type of hex nut on the top shaft. So I had to use vise grips, etc to get it off. The new Monroes had the hex nut. It was still hard to get a wrench in there, but it is possible. It just takes a little ingenuity.
Mine is a 1984, the same thing, use an open end wrench on top and unscrew the shock from the bottom.
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