RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Plugging in our Class C at home

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Plugging in our Class C at home

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
Bordercollie

Garden Grove, CA, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 03/07/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/09/12 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditto all the cautions above. Get a licensed electrician to install a proper 120v box outide wall of your garage, with receptable that mates directly with your RV shore cable plug. Electrician should make sure that wiring polarity in box and RV is correct for your safety. Your shore cable should be long enough to reach without extension cable. Install a simple plug-in line voltage meter inside your rig to keep an eye on line voltage with your rig's AC running. In hot weather, when neighbors are running their central AC's etc, line voltage may drop below 110vac and your RV's AC unit may be damaged if left running. If line voltage drops below 110, when you run your microwave and AC at the same time, don't run both.

smkettner

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/09/12 11:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Even if you hire an electrician make sure the NEMA 30-TT outlet is wired to one breaker and make him show you 120 volts on his meter.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something

lanerd

Newport, OR

Senior Member

Joined: 03/03/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 06/09/12 01:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

j-d wrote:

THANK HEAVEN you asked first! We just had a case where an OP hired an electrician to wire a 30A outlet and he made it 240VAC. Quite a bit of damage...


I'm not sure how you could wire a 30amp, 3-prong connector to have 240vac...unless he did away with the neutral and wired another 120vac leg to it.

They use to wire 240AC plugs without a neutral, but I think that is no longer the case and all require one now. I assume that electrician was an older guy who was use to wiring that way.

Ron


Ron & Sandie
'08 Safari Simba SBD35 CAT C7
Toad: 2011 GMC Terrain SLT2
Tow Bar: Sterling AT
Toad Brakes: Unified U.S. Gear
TPMS: Pressure Pro
Member of: GS, FMCA, Safari Intl, CAT


RETIRED!! How sweet it is....

j-d

Sunny Florida USA

Senior Member

Joined: 09/04/2003

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 06/09/12 02:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yep, just two hots and either ground or neutral on the ground pin. I just pulled our drier plug and it's only three prongs and 240VAC.
Never mind the plug and socket both have 120 (maybe 125) VAC molded into them...


God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100

wolfe10

Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 10/08/2000

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/09/12 02:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As suggested if this is older 240VAC wiring with 3 wires, it can not be "converted" to 30 amp RV.

If it is newer 240 VAC wiring with 4 wires, it can easily be converted.

You want ONE hot, one neutral and one ground. The other hot will not be used.

Could you "patch together" a three wire-- yes, but wire color at the house breaker box would be incorrect, as it would require you to change one hot to a neutral, retaining the original ground and one hot.


Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240


FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

smkettner

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/09/12 05:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 3 wire NEMA 10-30 can be changed to a NEMA 30-TT. Changes need to be made in the breaker box so you have one each; Hot, Neutral, Ground. Then connect same to the new outlet.

RonR2440

Foxfield, CO

New Member

Joined: 05/26/2010

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/10/12 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your outlet might be wired to a 15 amp circuit breaker. The air conditioner might require more amperage at startup. When I wired our home, I wired the outlets to 20 amp circuit breakers (different size wire). I have hooked up my RV to a garage outlet and can run the AC without a problem. Good luck.

ron.dittmer

Northern Illinois

Senior Member

Joined: 02/26/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/10/12 12:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I plug my 30A/110v motor home into a 25A/220v in my garage all the time. That outlet is not shared with any appliance in the house. I simply use the adapter pictured which utilizes only one of the two hot 220V wires which is 110v on a 10 gauge wire. I don't get full 30A service, but rather 25A. So I just won't run the a/c and the microwave at the same time. But I am at home without a need to run both simutaneously.

I did have to replace the 25a/220v receptacle in the garage with a 50a/220v to match the adaptor. It is pictured farther below. I placed a label on the receptable cover plate stating the 25A rating for the motor home only.

Does anyone see a problem with what I did? I'd like to know your thoughts about it.




2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/05/2005

View Profile






Posted: 06/10/12 01:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron:
That is not a 220 receptacle. It is a 120/240 volt four wire.
Depending on wire size, your installation is sound. You have pistured a fifty amp 120/240 four wire range receptacle which is the same as the 50 amp RV receptacle.


Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow



CA Traveler

The Western States

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/10/12 01:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JC435 wrote:

The last time I plugged our MH in at home in a 110 outlet, when the AC came on in the MH it tripped the breaker. Not knowing a thing about this stuff, would it help and is it OK to plug the MH into a 220 outlet in our garage? Thank you for any help you can give.
Per several posts above don't plug into 220V.

Only a small AC can run on a 20A plug. Plus most household circuits share multiple plugs on a 20A CB so other plugs will also be drawing current.

You may/may not be able to run the AC on a dedicated 20A plug. Best bet is to install a 30A or even 50A plug. Be VERY sure that the 30A plug is a RV plug and wired for 110. The 30A RV plug is similar looking to the older 3 wire dryer plug and some electricians wire it with 220 and then the rig gets fried.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42 Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
2004 Honda CR-V

Bob


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Plugging in our Class C at home
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2013 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS