RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Slide out

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Slide out

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
rehoppe

Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else

Senior Member

Joined: 01/30/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/03/12 06:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you check the output of your converter?
Or did you charge it with a separate charger, as well?


Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT

bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/03/12 07:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No I did not check the output or change the converter.Now let me report again.I just went out and start the Onan Generator,it started fine.Now when the Gen running I again checked the voltage at the house battery and it was showing 13.4 volt.This means that when Generator running than it is charging the batteries fine.Now I checked the front slide again and guess what it did not work.Back slide worked fine.When I push the switch for the front slide it did make noise when in button pushed but nothing happen when I pushed the out button.I have a feeling now that batteries are not an issue and something else going on.I am not comfortable to do anything with the controller except tapping it.I do not want to take it out or check the soldering.I have already taken the RV to RV Shop and they did not do anything and felt that something is wrong with the house batteries and recommended to change the batteries but I have already established that batteries are fine.What should I do now.Should I take the RV to a different RV shop.

rehoppe

Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else

Senior Member

Joined: 01/30/2009

View Profile



Posted: 07/04/12 05:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like that's what you are going to want to do.

I'm guessing at this point it's controller, or limit switches.

bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/04/12 11:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another interesting development.After overnight hooking to shore power I went out this morning and checked the front slide.It was working fine.Now I disconnected the shore power and checked the front slide and it did not work.Now I am puzzled.Why it worked when connected to the shore power and quit working when I disconnected it from shore power.Does it mean that with shore power connected house batteries have more juice so slide worked fine but when that extra juice taken away then it quit working.Any comments/ideas.

bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/05/12 10:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went out this morning and checked the front slide.It worked fine after connecting to shore power overnight.Voltage in the 13.4 volt.Voltage was same last night but it did not worked last night even after connecting to shore power for several hours.What is wrong here.Please help me out.

bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/05/12 04:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I talk to the serviceman at the dealership where I bought the motorhome.He recommended to change the switch first and see whether this helps.He did said there has been issue with the switch.Now I have a question.On the same panel board there are exactly 2 same switches one for the front slide and one for the back room slide with exact same number of terminals and wires.One whole switch has 2 buttons,one for manual over ride and one for in and out for slide.Now can I completely revesed the wires in both switches to see whether now front slide works and back slide go off if there is a problem with one switch as I know that back room slide always work fine.Is there a problem doing this.In this what I am doing is that revesing the switches around,now front slide will be controlled by back room switch and back room slide will be controlled by front slide switch.

Rick Jay

Greater Springfield area, MA

Senior Member

Joined: 02/02/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/05/12 07:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bill257,

You should be able to do as you propose. However, I'm guessing it's probably not the switch, but who knows? If there honestly was a problem with them, I guess it's possible.

Your problem sounds like a controller problem: bad relay, poor/cold solder connection or possibly bad controller board ground. Yes, it will work fine one time and then not at all seconds later. It will work fine at night when you put the slides out and not in the morning when you want to hit the road. That's the nature of a bad electrical connection. Just a slight change in temperature or slight vibration can mean the difference between working and not working.

If you can find your controller board, you should at least check to make sure the ground wire for the board is in good condition. Tightly screwed to chassis ground and NO wire discoloration.

What happens those times when the front slide begins to move but stalls is that there is a poor connection in series with the slide motor. This "steals" voltage from the motor and therefore limits the voltage available at the motor. Since the motor isn't spinning as fast as it's rating and working hard to come up to speed, it draws more current. More current heats up the wires. As I think I had mentioned in an earlier post, when I finally did track down the problem to the controller board, I also noticed the ground wire for the board was loose. When I stripped the wire to make a new, good & solid connection, I discovered that the first 6 inches of copper from the end of the wire had been completely blackened. The white insulation was only darkened on the first inch.

If your ground wire looks good, it wouldn't hurt to check every other power & ground wire connection to the front slide motor as well. But definitely check the slide controller ground first.

Did you ever find out when the controller board is located on your rig?

~Rick


2005 Georgie Boy 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22 (Class A)
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (16-Angel, Lexi96.org), 1 girl (11), 2 boys (12 & 9).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.


bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/05/12 08:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes I was able to find the controller.It is under the refrigerator.Space is tight and not much room to work.I will again check each wire going in to the controller but how would I know which is the ground wire.

Rick Jay

Greater Springfield area, MA

Senior Member

Joined: 02/02/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/06/12 06:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bill257,

The ground wire on my controller was white and should be connected directly to a metal chassis ground point within a few feet of the controller. It could also be wire-nutted with another couple of ground wires for other circuit grounds in the vicinity. If the latter is the case, then you still should check the connection to the actual chassis. Of the controller wires, check to see which one goes to ground. Most will go to either the IN/OUT switches, the slide motors or a sensor signal (ignition ON/OFF, bay door open, etc.). One group will probably be power & ground.

Is it possible for you to rap the controller with a wooden dowel/paint stick in it's location? If so, have such a tool handy and the next time it acts up, give it a rap and check it. It would be even better if you could unmount it and give it a good jarring. I used to hold mine in one hand and "clap". That seemed to do it. But it might take a couple of attempts, especially as the condition worsened.

~Rick

* This post was edited 07/06/12 07:34am by Rick Jay *

bill257

MARSHFIELD

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2011

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/07/12 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rick Jay,
I checked all the wires at battery terminal includng a white grounding wire connected to a silver plate.It was tight like a rope when crossing over the relay.I loosened it by starightening the terminal where it was connected.I also checked all the wires at the motor and they seems fine.Currently slide working fine.I will continue to monitor and report back if it quit working.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Slide out
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2013 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS