I have a 1992 p30 chassis I have a problem with the power steering and the power brake. When it is in park the power steering and power brake work but there is a noise coming from the power steering pump and when I put it in gear and start to move (about 6 feet) the noise stops and I lose power steering and power brake, when I put it back in park the noise comes back and the power steering and the power brake comes back, then when I put it back into gear i have the same thing happen but it seems that the parking brakeis on until I move about 6 feet again. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Did you check the fluid level? The power steering pump supplies the pressure for both the power steering and the power brakes. The resivour should be on the firewall. If the level is good, you need a new pump. If the level is low and you fill it up and it still makes the noise, you need a new pump.
Does this year P30 have the autopark? If you do then google it as there are many posts about the problems with that system.
As the power steering and power brakes both work on the same booster/pump system, they were always overloaded if you tried to brake and turn hard at the same time - so you might have a failing pump, low fluid level, air in the system etc.
It sounds like you do, in fact, have AutoPark. The AutoPark System is a strong, spring loaded, driveline brake that is used in lieu of a Park Pawl in the transmission.
The Fluid Reservoir serves the AutoPark System (park brake), the Power Steering, and the HydroBoost (your power service brakes). When it is taken out of Park, the fluid is pumped into the AutoPark Actuator to overpower the spring to release the driveline brake. If the fluid is low or if the AutoPark Brake is way out of adjustment, there may not be enough of it left in the reservoir to power the steering and service brakes.
The fluid reservoir is probably on the outside of the "firewall" towards the driver's side of the radiator. Check it while the tranny is in Park. Otherwise it will gush fluid when the AutoPark Actuator Spring forces the fluid back upon placing it in Park.
Our AutoPark Guru, Oldusedbear will jump in when he gets a chance. He generously shares his comprehensive collection of knowledge about all things AutoPark. Meanwhile, check the fluid level as instructed and DON'T LET ANYONE TOUCH IT! We've heard of people getting swindled out of thousands of dollars over what could have been a simple adjustment or a $35 part. The overwhelming majority of dealer and independent "techs" don't know or understand this simple and usually reliable system.
FYI, later versions were powered by an independent, electro-hydraulic system.
Coltman, Oldusedbear is running off for a few days and will be back this coming Sunday night. His EMail is: oldusedbear11@charter.net
Meanwhile, maybe I can help. Hopefully, the shoes were not damaged.
Check the fluid while in Park. If the fluid is full when in Park but gets completely used up when taken out of Park, these are the first things to do. You may or may not be comfortable doing them, but I offer this piece for you or anyone who has the mind and mechanical aptitude to do it safely using sensible safety precautions, chocks, helpers, etc., so nobody gets squished.
The shoes might need adjustment. A standard brake spoon is used to adjust the standard star-wheel adjuster. At least one rear wheel must be jacked up off the ground, the engine started, tranny taken out of Park and into Neutral for at least 10 seconds. Then the engine should be shut off while still in Neutral, and the footbrake (or handbrake) released. Turn the raised wheel so the drum on the back of the tranny is rotated so the adjustment slot is at the top. Adjust and test by spinning the rear wheel. Adjust, test, adjust, test. You're looking for the slightest amount of drag possible. Awkward to get at up there, but doable. BTW, to tighten the adjuster, your hand must move down (star rotated up).
Make sure your footbrake (handbrake) cable is not tight when you're done. If it is, slack it off and continue to adjust the shoes. Then readjust the footbrake (handbrake) cable to just barely slack after you're done. Test the feel of the footbrake (handbrake). Don't mess with the big Actuator Cable at this time.
The Actuator might also need to be bled as a result of the previous low fluid condition. This should be performed after shoe adjustment. The Actuator on the right frame rail aft of the transmission. It's a 6" - 7" diameter can that has a large tube going into the rear and a heavy cable coming out of the front. The bleeder is above the tube on top.
Lower the wheels, re-chock, put it in Park, and top off the fluid if neccessary. Start the engine, put it in Neutral, and open the bleeder momentarily. Don't bleed it all at once. Cycle between Park (bleeder closed) and Neutral (bleeder open momentarily) while monitoring fluid level while in Park. When nothing but fluid comes out, verify bleeder closed, but not over tightened.
This is an abbreviated version that will, hopefully, get you back on the road. If I missed something important, please chime in. Again, if this is beyond your ability, keep your hands and back clean. Find a mechanic who's willing to read this and Oldusedbear's info before blundering into it.
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