..I've just had installed a Readybrake braking system on our towed vehicle (Kia Sedona), and took it and the MH for a test run Saturday. Seems to tow great, I'm very happy with this setup. Only one problem: I'm having a hard time determining if the ReadyBrake is ever engaging or not.
Van (towed vehicle) has a hitch receiver and 4 pin trailer wiring on the back. This had been installed previously. I took a set of magnetic tow lights I already had, plugged them into the van's 4 pin trailer wiring connector, and set the lights up near the front of the van, pointing FORWARD. I know this sounds ridiculous, but I did this so I could see these lights in the rearview camera in the MH, and they could provide a great indicator that towed vehicle's brake pedal is engaging. Did not install Readybrake's indicator light (yet), as I wanted something that would tell me when brake pedal is depressed, not when Readybrake actuator moves.
Taillight wiring for the van is done with diodes, using the kit for such that came with Remco lube pump. Taillights work fine - they do exactly as tailiight on MH (turn signals, brake, etc).
Anyway, here's the problem: I never can tell that the Readybrake ever engages the brakes, because even when getting on the brake hard to stop from 45-50 mph, the magnetic lights I rigged up facing forward as noted above, did NOT come on. I stopped at one point and pulled on the readybrake cable, and sure enough, the (magnetic) lights come on, then. I am unable to see from the camera if the readybrake actuator and cable is moving, but can definitely tell that the (magnetic) lights are not coming on.
I've already spoke with Readybrake support, and they suggested I tighten the readybrake cable some more, which I plan to do and run another test. Thought I had it tight enough, but maybe not.
Now, my question, is around another possibility: Is it possible, even though I'm using the diodes that (I thought) prevent this...That the MH braking signal and towed vehicle braking signal coming at same time, are cancelling out the signal going to the magnetic tow lights through the van's trailer wiring connector, and everything actually is braking as it should? If thats the case, then my 'redneck' towed vehicle brake pedal indicator (magnetic lights) isn't going to work, and I'll have to come up with another solution for that.
When I pull the (Readybrake) cable manually, the magnetic lights come on as they should. And, the magnetic lights do NOT come on when MH brakes engage. However, I've not tried doing both at the same time (pull cable while MH brakes are engaged sending brake signal). I've heard of this being an issue, and wonder if that could be happening in this case and confusing matters?
The 4 pin trailer wiring on the Kia Sedona, that the magnetic lights attach to, was wired using THIS quick-connect kit from U-haul, if thats relevant.
On another, unrelated note: My curiousity has finally been settled about backing up with a toad behind a MH. At one point during my 'test' run Saturday, I pulled into a large empty parking lot. Understand, this is/was my VERY FIRST time towing a vehicle 4 down, but still, I just HAD to see for myself, so I put the MH into reverse, and started rolling backward. I non-challantly proceeded to back the MH and van up a GOOD 30-40 feet, without even a hint of any kind of problem. Towed vehicle wheels stayed completely straight. Truly felt like I could have backed across entire parking lot if I wanted. Confirms what I thought all along - as long as you're only going STRAIGHT backward - it can be done just fine, as long as you're cautious and slow.
Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis Our Rig
Go back to the parking lot, disconnect the motorhome to towed vehicle umbilical, and try the braking test again. If it is conflicting signals to the lights cancelling each other out, removing the motorhome brake lights from the mix should allow the towed vehicle lights to come on.
As for your backing test, I was once forced to try that, too, when towing a Jeep. Within about 5 feet the front wheels SLAMMED over against the stops in a full left turn, thus proving that what "they" say about backing a four-down toad is the absolute truth. Yes, I, too, was backing straight back.
I have never tried it since, and never will. Once was enough.
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
willald wrote: . My curiousity has finally been settled about backing up with a toad behind a MH. At one point during my 'test' run Saturday, I pulled into a large empty parking lot. Understand, this is/was my VERY FIRST time towing a vehicle 4 down, but still, I just HAD to see for myself, so I put the MH into reverse, and started rolling backward. I non-challantly proceeded to back the MH and van up a GOOD 30-40 feet, without even a hint of any kind of problem. Towed vehicle wheels stayed completely straight. Truly felt like I could have backed across entire parking lot if I wanted. Confirms what I thought all along - as long as you're only going STRAIGHT backward - it can be done just fine, as long as you're cautious and slow.
It doesn't always work that way. If the ground or pavement is not level the toad wheels will turn.
Anytime you try to back you have to watch the toad constantly. If it turns and you don't stop you will do damage to the tow bars or base plate.
2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered. Get a Digital Multimeter and Learn How to Use It
willald wrote: . My curiousity has finally been settled about backing up with a toad behind a MH. At one point during my 'test' run Saturday, I pulled into a large empty parking lot. Understand, this is/was my VERY FIRST time towing a vehicle 4 down, but still, I just HAD to see for myself, so I put the MH into reverse, and started rolling backward. I non-challantly proceeded to back the MH and van up a GOOD 30-40 feet, without even a hint of any kind of problem. Towed vehicle wheels stayed completely straight. Truly felt like I could have backed across entire parking lot if I wanted. Confirms what I thought all along - as long as you're only going STRAIGHT backward - it can be done just fine, as long as you're cautious and slow.
It doesn't always work that way. If the ground or pavement is not level the toad wheels will turn.
Anytime you try to back you have to watch the toad constantly. If it turns and you don't stop you will do damage to the tow bars or base plate.
I know. That was why I said 'cautious and slow'. I probably will not try that again unless I have someone watching the wheels of the toad to let me know if they start to flip to one side or the other. Curiousity just got the best of me that time, 'cause I had heard for so many years you couldnt do it, I had to see. Probably shouldnt have, haha.
I think, a lot has to do with the suspension design of the toad. I'm not convinced all vehicles have as much caster designed into the front suspension as they did in years past.
mowermech wrote: Go back to the parking lot, disconnect the motorhome to towed vehicle umbilical, and try the braking test again.
..Well, if I take the umbilical off, the lube pump isn't running, and I'd destroy a transmission in short order if I towed it that way very far. Guess I could just do one quick, short pull in a parking lot, just enough to test the brakes, though.
That, or I could just attach the umbilical cord in the driveway, have someone push on brake pedal in MH, while I pull on the readybrake cable in front of the van, see if the lights don't come on. Already know that they come on, if I pull on the brake cable (when MH brakes aren't engaged).
Quote: As for your backing test, I was once forced to try that, too, when towing a Jeep. Within about 5 feet the front wheels SLAMMED over against the stops in a full left turn, thus proving that what "they" say about backing a four-down toad is the absolute truth. Yes, I, too, was backing straight back.
I have never tried it since, and never will. Once was enough.
..Point taken. I guess we all subconsciously think that our specific experience with something is the 'absolute truth' on it for everything and everyone. That ain't the way it is, though.
Tie a piece of thread between the brake pedal and the seat. Make it tight. Try the brakes.....if it breaks the thread.....you'l know. You can make the thread tight by sliding the seat forward, tie the thread off and slide the seat back.
I no longer use the diode system (used on two previous trucks). When my SMI system pulls the brake on, the toad sends a brake signal. If you have a blinker going, the brake signal from the toad will cancel out the turn signal from the coach. I just did the wiring on my 2012 Silverado and used the new style taillight sockets that are flat and twistlock in (added to OEM lenses). They use a bayonet bulb. Both take up substantially less space and they seal better to the lens. I drilled the lenses and then used a dremel to make the twistlock cut outs. Worked great,
Don & Mary
2005 Monaco Diplomat 36SKT
400 Cummins
2012 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ CrewCab 4WD
2013 Polaris RZR 800 LE
Update: Well, we ruled out the 'signal over-ride' thing - had DW step on brakes in MH, while I pulled on Readybrake cable. When I did, the magnetic lights I had set up (facing forward) came on just as they should.
Also had her get in the toad, start it up and 'push' on the MH a little, while I watched the Readybrake actuator to verify it was indeed working and pulling the cable. It was, and is working fine.
THEN, I got to thinking, perhaps the problem is much simpler in nature here, haha. I got in the MH, started it up so rear-view monitor was working, and had DW get in the toad and hit the brake, to make sure I could see the magnetic tow lights light up from the rear-view monitor. Boom, there was the problem: The magnetic lights were coming on, but I could NOT tell they were coming on with the rear-view monitor. Just the way that monitor is, and the way those magnetic lights are, you cannot tell that they are on in the daylight through that rear view monitor/TV.
Sooo, I can only conclude that the Readybrake must be working as it should, and the only issue is that my 'redneck' idea with pointing the magnetic lights forward just is NOT going to work, since I cannot see them come on through the rearview monitor. Ugh.
My solution: Went to Advance Auto parts, picked up some wire and some 2-way connectors similar to THIS. Plan to run a wire from trailer connector at rear of towed vehicle, to a 2-way connector at front of the toad. Will wire that to the Readybrake dashboard LED monitor they have, so that then I'll have an indicator on the dash that will show for certain when toad brakes are being pressed. Gonna be a pain to route the wires under the toad (and MH) for that, and hate to have yet another wire/cable between the toad and MH, but its what I'm gonna have to do. Sure wish the magnetic lights would have let me avoid that, but no such luck.
If the brake light switch in the toad is reasonably accessible, why not attach your indicator wire there, instead of going all the way to the back of the toad? Then, it will be completely out of the way, and you just have to route it through the firewall and out the front of the toad.
mowermech wrote: If the brake light switch in the toad is reasonably accessible, why not attach your indicator wire there, instead of going all the way to the back of the toad? Then, it will be completely out of the way, and you just have to route it through the firewall and out the front of the toad.
I've seriously considered that, mowermech, and still may well go that route. Two reasons why I initiallly chose not to:
1. Routing wire from back of the van to the firewall, is the easy part. I can just follow/tie onto existing wiring I know is there already. Hard part, which I have to face in either case, is routing from the front where the connector will be, around the engine, transmission, etc. It is VERY crowded under the hood on this vehicle!
2. Trying to avoid having to tap into any (more) wiring on the toad. By going to the back of the toad, I can just plug into the 4 pin trailer connector thats already there - no need to tap into any wires. I realize, though, that the downside to this is that I'd have to unplug the connector at the back in the rare instances we ever use the van to tow something and need the 4 pin connector.
That said, I may well look closer at where the brake switch is, and whether it might be easier to route the wire through the firewall and over to it.
In order to determine when/if the brakes are actually applied by the ReadyBrute system, I installed the following in my toad (2011 Ford Fiesta):
I mounted a mechanical limit switch (ME901 automatic reset wobble stick) under the dash. The switch controls a removable, high-intensity LED light that is temporarily (when towing) mounted on the dash facing the backup camera on the motorhome (2011 Sunseeker 2300). The switch/light receive power from the always hot lead and ground from the seven-pin connector on the motorhome.
In preparation for towing, I connect the switch wobble stick to the brake arm using a piece of fishing line that has alligator clips attached to both ends. I then mount the LED light on the dash and plug the switch/light circuit into a trailer-wiring plug positioned under the dash. When the brake pedal is depressed, the fishing line activates the wobble stick, thus closing the circuit and energizing the light. When the brake pedal is released, the wobble stick returns to its original position and the light is de-energized. Using this system, when I see the high-intensity light (through the windshield) in the backup camera), I know that the brakes have actually been applied.
Another thing that has proved useful is the attachment of a computer compact disk to a clamp that can be affixed to the top of the steering wheel while towing. By positioning the surface of the disk so that it is facing the backup camera, it can be readily observed (because of its highly-reflective surface) to ensure that the front wheels are tracking properly.
Offline
