In order to determine when/if the brakes are actually applied by the ReadyBrute system, I installed the following in my toad (2011 Ford Fiesta):
I mounted a mechanical limit switch (ME901 automatic reset wobble stick) under the dash. The switch controls a removable, high-intensity LED light that is temporarily (when towing) mounted on the dash facing the backup camera on the motorhome (2011 Sunseeker 2300). The switch/light receive power from the always hot lead and ground from the seven-pin connector on the motorhome...
..Might you have a link to where I could get a high-intensity LED light like the one you're using on your dash, that would work off 12 volts? Or, better yet, some pictures of your setup? You have me curious...
I purchased the high-intensity LED light from the trailer accessory department of a local hardware store(Big R). Unfortunately, I discarded the container and can’t find any identification marks on the product itself. However, it is a four-light unit very similar to the one described here. I tried other LED lights in this application, but they were too dim to consistently see through the glare of the windshield. These high-intensity lights are so bright it is uncomfortable to look directly at them when they are lit. The light I am using can be used in either the continuous (my preference) or flashing mode.
Sorry, I don’t have any pictures of my setup, but it basically consists of the following: mounting the limit switch under the dash after lining up the wobble stick part of the switch with the brake arm and wiring a plug in series with the switch (using the hot and ground from the seven-pin connector on the motorhome). The switch was mounted using screws driven into the plastic dash fascia. In preparation for towing, the wobble stick is connected to the brake pedal (using a detachable fishing line in my case), the light is connected to the switch activated plug, and the light is mounted on the dash (using a bracket and spring clamp in my case).
I installed this setup because I didn’t want to cross-wire any of the toad-related electrical system with the existing electrical system of the Fiesta. I hope this information is helpful to you.
I got into this a little late but I would bet that your wires and diodes from the RV are closer to the toweds lamps than the quick disconnect. I'll try to explane it, the wires from the toweds cockpit run back to the disconnect plug, you opened the plug and installed the after market plug and wires to the four way socket, then to the tail lights. Your wire with the diode is between the after market socket and the lightbulb, the diode won't allow the current to pass through the diode to the aftermarket wiring to the four connector socket your magnetic lights are pluged into.
I'm in a CG right now so I can't send a graphic of the wiring, if you need more help ask here and I'll check back after lunch.
All Radio Shack stores should have the LED and wires you need to make your indicator as one of the other replies suggested.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson
1990 Bounder 27D
06 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4X4
Blue Ox Apollo Brake Sys.(missing after break in, shopping for new one)
...the wires from the toweds cockpit run back to the disconnect plug, you opened the plug and installed the after market plug and wires to the four way socket, then to the tail lights. Your wire with the diode is between the after market socket and the lightbulb, the diode won't allow the current to pass through the diode to the aftermarket wiring to the four connector socket your magnetic lights are pluged into.
Right, sbishop, this is exactly how its wired (I was the one that did a lot of the wiring, so I understand that part). Thats exactly how I wanted it, too. This way, I can use the trailer connection to get a brake signal from the toad (without having to tap into any other wiring in the toad), and its completely separate from the brake signal that comes from the MH.
I'm just debating now, if its worth running a wire all the way from the MH dash to a connector on back of MH, having yet another wire between MH and toad, and running a wire/connector from front of toad to the trailer 4 pin connector at the back of the toad.
Other option is to try and find a way to use the magnetic lights so that they can be seen in the MH rearview monitor, or use some other kind of light thats easier to see, like the previous poster talked about.
Think before I do any wiring, I'm going to try mounting the magnetic lights on the sides of the vehicle, just in front of the mirros, and angle them up toward the MH camera, see if that works..