DonCarol
Seekonk, MA
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Has anyone installed grease fittings in the driveshaft/universal joints. I have read in one of the Ford bulletins that some models require the installation of grease fittings in order to prolong the life of the universal joints. I have looked at the area they are referring to and cannot find a suitable place where a fitting could be installed. Would like to hear from others who have installed the fittings as described above.
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NewsW
US
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Joined: 02/06/2012
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Don't know about yours specifically, but on some of them, it involves removing a nut and doing that.
I also put fittings in the ball joints, etc.
Greasing them once a year is a sure fire formula to long life.
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Weldon
Texas
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I am under the impression that when the u-joints are replaced, you replace the u-joint with one that has the grease zerk in it. Same may be true for ball joints.
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NewsW
US
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On my ball joints, if the nut is removed, there is insufficient space to install a zeke.
Solution: I added washers to make the zeke stick in less.
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rehoppe
Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else
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Joined: 01/30/2009
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NewsW wrote:On my ball joints, if the nut is removed, there is insufficient space to install a zeke.
Solution: I added washers to make the zeke stick in less.
I'm cornfused. Is that a 'plug' you are talking about removing? and screwing in a zert.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
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ron.dittmer
Northern Illinois
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rehoppe wrote:NewsW wrote:On my ball joints, if the nut is removed, there is insufficient space to install a zeke.
Solution: I added washers to make the zeke stick in less.
I'm cornfused. Is that a 'plug' you are talking about removing? and screwing in a zert. Yes he is. It is actually a stubby little bolt that uses the same size socket as grease fittings.
Somewhere I read that after the grease job, you are supposed to remove the grease fitting and put the bolt back in, but nobody practices that.
Most vehicles don't have anything where you would expect a plug or fitting to be. I have used the needle at around the 50,000 mark on a couple of my vehicles. It pierces the boot leaving a negligable micro-sized slit. It is debatable as to what is better, doing nothing or using the needle.
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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rehoppe
Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else
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ron.dittmer wrote:rehoppe wrote:NewsW wrote:On my ball joints, if the nut is removed, there is insufficient space to install a zeke.
Solution: I added washers to make the zeke stick in less.
I'm cornfused. Is that a 'plug' you are talking about removing? and screwing in a zert. Yes he is. It is actually a stubby little bolt that uses the same size socket as grease fittings.
Somewhere I read that after the grease job, you are supposed to remove the grease fitting and put the bolt back in, but nobody practices that.
Most vehicles don't have anything where you would expect a plug or fitting to be. I have used the needle at around the 50,000 mark on a couple of my vehicles. It pierces the boot leaving a negligable micro-sized slit. It is debatable as to what is better, doing nothing or using the needle.
It is an interesting question. We seem to have gone from everything being greasable, to almost nothing having a fitting. And now maybe we are swinging the other way?
I've always used replacement parts that have 'fittings', even once caught a Lube Joint, not greasing the parts that I installed. They didn't even think to look for fittings on the unjoints and front end....
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Kamphiker
South Florida (this 'aint paradise anymore)
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Only Universal Joint failure(s) I have ever had, were @ the Zerk port.
This was NOT on any RV, But sports cars. The weak point was at the Zerk threaded port. Under high load I have cracked/broken the Universal(s) across the Web starting at the Zerk Port. After several times, I finally replaced with "sealed for Life" (w/o a Zerk Port/Fitting) and never had another issue.
Now that being said, the failures were more than likely due to aggressive driving in Auto Cross Comp.. I had more failures on Cars with Independent rear suspensions.
Perhaps a RV even under heavy load going up 8 - 10% grade mountain would not have Shock load on the universals that I put on cars in Auto Cross.
I hear more problems with Carrier bearings on Motor Homes than Universals.
2006 Winnebago Outlook WF324V
2009 Honda CR-V 2wd TOAD ......Campgrounds in the Smoky Mountains NP
Last Camping trip ->2011 SUMMER SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Some greaseable UJoints have the fitting where the branches of the cross meet. Can be difficult to lube with the average grease gun tip. Grease enters near the center of the cross and goes to all four caps. That's probably the kind that broke, mentioned above. Others have the fitting in one of the caps. Grease enters the cross through one cap and goes to all four.
What I wanted to mention is some of the "better" UJoints are made of better material and are of a better design. More smaller needles spread the torque across more surface of the cross bearings. It'd pay to shop around, even lift a cap off a couple replacement joints to see the needles.
And of course, install the parts so all the fittings are aimed in one direction so you can lube them all without having to reposition the driveshaft! East to forget!
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
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dleslie125
Southern Ontario/Palmetto FL in Winter
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Same here - had a zerk break but on a MH - Kodiak based Jayco. Had to have the U-joint replaced by a dealer. Much prefer the sealed for life units as well. Makes life much easler.
Don
Kamphiker wrote:Only Universal Joint failure(s) I have ever had, were @ the Zerk port.
This was NOT on any RV, But sports cars. The weak point was at the Zerk threaded port. Under high load I have cracked/broken the Universal(s) across the Web starting at the Zerk Port. After several times, I finally replaced with "sealed for Life" (w/o a Zerk Port/Fitting) and never had another issue.
Now that being said, the failures were more than likely due to aggressive driving in Auto Cross Comp.. I had more failures on Cars with Independent rear suspensions.
Perhaps a RV even under heavy load going up 8 - 10% grade mountain would not have Shock load on the universals that I put on cars in Auto Cross.
I hear more problems with Carrier bearings on Motor Homes than Universals.
2011 Itasca Impulse 26QP Silver Toad 2011 Escape Ltd AWD
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