mlts22 wrote: If you don't mind waiting, Atwood should be shipping an on-demand tankless water heater that fits in a six gallon bay. I'd consider going that route once they start shipping.
Why is it when someone says they want a larger water heater or to install a tankless unit, people swarm out from under the woodwork saying they just need to learn to use less hot water? What if the OP just doesn't want to? Or has a large family? Saying they need to learn to use less hot water doesn't answer their question.
There might be a long wait for the new Atwood Tankless units. They were supposed to have started shipping last April but have been delayed. I fired an email off to them recently and they replied that shipment has been postponed indefinitely. If you are willing to wait for the new Atwoods, I would suggest getting the slightly larger 50K unit since it has a built in winter kit that will protect you from a surprise freeze.
One alternative, if one can't wait for the new Atwoods, is the Gerard tankless water heater. Many people don't like them because they are quirky to use and installation often includes upgrading the RV's plumbing. To use a Gerard, one has to use only the hot water tap and adjust the rate of water flow to vary water temperature; the faster the flow, the lower the water temperature. Also, if the amount of water flow isn't high enough, parts of the RV's plumbing has to be upgraded to ensure the water flow is high enough; otherwise, the water will be too hot at all settings. Items often needing upgrading are the water pump, the city water incoming check valve, pressure regulators, removal of flow restrictors, upgrading faucets to ones that allow a higher flow rate, removing filters or exchanging them to ones that do not restrict water flow as much, etc.
Another alternative is an Atwood Exothermic water heater. They come in both a 6 gl and 10 gl size and are only an inch or two longer than than their regular water heater equivalents. Both heater water up to 180 degrees and have a mixing valve on the back to add cold water to the output to temper it to a safer temperature. The six gl unit puts out the equivalent of around 9 gl. I have seen reports of people having trouble with the mixing valve.
mlts22 wrote: If you don't mind waiting, Atwood should be shipping an on-demand tankless water heater that fits in a six gallon bay. I'd consider going that route once they start shipping.
Why is it when someone says they want a larger water heater or to install a tankless unit, people swarm out from under the woodwork saying they just need to learn to use less hot water? What if the OP just doesn't want to? Or has a large family? Saying they need to learn to use less hot water doesn't answer their question.
There might be a long wait for the new Atwood Tankless units. They were supposed to have started shipping last April but have been delayed. I fired an email off to them recently and they replied that shipment has been postponed indefinitely. If you are willing to wait for the new Atwoods, I would suggest getting the slightly larger 50K unit since it has a built in winter kit that will protect you from a surprise freeze.
One alternative, if one can't wait for the new Atwoods, is the Gerard tankless water heater. Many people don't like them because they are quirky to use and installation often includes upgrading the RV's plumbing. To use a Gerard, one has to use only the hot water tap and adjust the rate of water flow to vary water temperature; the faster the flow, the lower the water temperature. Also, if the amount of water flow isn't high enough, parts of the RV's plumbing has to be upgraded to ensure the water flow is high enough; otherwise, the water will be too hot at all settings. Items often needing upgrading are the water pump, the city water incoming check valve, pressure regulators, removal of flow restrictors, upgrading faucets to ones that allow a higher flow rate, removing filters or exchanging them to ones that do not restrict water flow as much, etc.
Another alternative is an Atwood Exothermic water heater. They come in both a 6 gl and 10 gl size and are only an inch or two longer than than their regular water heater equivalents. Both heater water up to 180 degrees and have a mixing valve on the back to add cold water to the output to temper it to a safer temperature. The six gl unit puts out the equivalent of around 9 gl. I have seen reports of people having trouble with the mixing valve.
So you start by chastising those who are trying to help by suggesting alternatives and then you finish by supporting and suggesting alternatives. what's with that? If you read the original post he is suggesting they need longer shower times not more necessarily more hot water. The alternatives were trying to help him address that issue.
This is a six gallon water heater but... With a twist (And not of lemon) it has a higher temp thermostat, so it heats the water not to 120, but to something quite hotter (perhaps 180, I'm not really sure) then it has a mixing valve at the outlet.. so it mixes hot and cold water to give you 10 gallons of hot from a six gallon tank.
Why do you want it? Beats the saws out of having to enlarge the hole now don't it, It is a 10 gallon hat that fits in a six gallon hole, which you already have.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
If the 6 gallon you currently have is okay, I'd think about changing the shower head; your going to run into Murphy in the change out!!! As you know, the manufacturer limits space to a serious level, and your trying to put in a bigger tank, and working in that space, wow! Just my two cents worth though. Safe travels.
Wa8yxm... Thanks for that...I will definitely look into that... As far as the shower head goes, I think I'll give that a try first to see if it helps....it's much cheaper and easier...! Ive heard good things about the oxygenics unit...I didnt know that it had water saving and self pressurization abilities.
I can actually fit inside the compartment the WH is in as it is under a bunk area that is 34x74...the only issue is the height... I have max of 14" Floor to top of compartment. With that said, if the shower head does not work out, I will look into the heater with the mixing valve that is same size.
2007 Ford F350 6.0 CC SB
Fully bulletproofed/EGR/ARP Studs
Reese 16k round tube slider hitch.
2000 Damon Hornet 2850BH 5er
Days camped 2011= 34 2012= 46
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