jtlingo123 writes "so basically if I need to change out one if the fixtures I will have to put in a regular light fixture and a 12v light?"
Yes.
The problem though is 12V is considered "low voltage" and therefore is treated a bit differently than 120V.
12V wiring since it is not considered as dangerous as 120V is not required to use electrical boxes for any wire splices or connections.
120V electrical connections ARE required to be made in electrical boxes.
So now days the 12V wiring must be kept separate from any 120V wiring. This would include 12V and 120V lighting fixtures.
Having 12V and 120V in the same box (or light fixture) could expose one to lethal voltages on the 12V side by accident.
So to replace a fixture such as you have you would need to use a 120V light fixture AND a separate 12V light fixture if you wanted to follow the current electrical practice.
"So basically I could use both 12v and 120v when camping, I would just need a battery for the 12v lighting in the camper?"
Correct.
With a "converter" and/or battery you could forget about the 120V fixtures altogether if you wish and just use the 12V lights.
Unless you are really old (like someone here), you would never recognize that as a dual power fixture. It is both 120 and 12V. That is why two switches and two different light bulbs.
Unfortunately, the one in the second picture looks like it lost a bar fight. You could actually buy all the parts to repair that, if you care to do so.
I don't know what your intent is, but I am pretty sure that any other surviving examples are museum pieces.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
H Matt,
Yes I would like to fix the old one, but I wouldn't know where to buy the parts from. If you know, maybe you could tell a younger (37) guy where to but them from. I like the way they look and it would be cool to keep them if possible.
Thanks,
Your understanding that there are two independent and incompatible systems in each fixture could allow you to safely restore and use the fixtues. I have owned and restored them.
Looking at the picture of the loser. It appears that it really needs just two parts to work. Everything it needs are still current production. The snap-in receptacle and the turn-on-off switch might be available at a big box (LowDepot etc). The receptacle will be in wiring parts and the switch as well as the nut for and a shade will be with lamp parts. Also in lamp parts, you may find the long screws to remount that fixture.
If you do not find the parts there, then disconnect (label the wires) and take the fixture to a really truly lamp store. There are also lamp parts suppliers on the web, but if you are unclear on what you need, that may be a bad idea.
If you are slick, you could get the switch for the AC side that makes it a three way so you don't have to light both bulbs.
You can also save a lot of future damage by using CFL (curly fried light) bulbs. These produce much less heat.
Hi Matt,
Hey thanks for the info, I didn't think you could still get a snap-in receptacle. I still have all the hardware, I was just in the process of taking everything off to re-paint it.
Since it would be doubtful that you will be able to find any NOS or reproductions of your dual voltage fixture you may need to get creative in repairing it.
For the most part you may be able to find “off the shelf” parts which may fit or be “adapted” with modifications to the fixture.
However please understand that many of these parts may not be available at your local Home Depot, Lowes or many electrical supply house since they are no longer “common usage” and more of a specialty item and tend to be “slow moving” inventory.
In my area, both Home Depot and Lowes have slashed a lot of “slow moving” inventory from their shelves, simple items like toggle, push button switches are of such low demand that they are not easy to find in store anymore. Many items which used to commonly used in homes and such have been obsoleted or gone out of style.
If inventory does not turn fast enough they no longer reorder it to stock the shelves, period.
In other words most likely you will most likely need to order online or mail order.
If you want to keep the vintage period correct rotary switches then take a look at the ones I found. Although since the contacts are outside the electrical box, I myself would use a toggle or push button which would be safer in the event the switch is ever broken again (push button and toggles will not expose the live contacts outside the electrical box in the event of breakage).
The only thing I have not found is the vintage Bakelite 12V lamp sockets but you might be able to substitute a newer bayonet style 12V bulb socket which would not have the Bakelite cover if you need to.
Wow! Thanks for all the info! I didn't know I would spark such an interest in the matter...I'm glad I signed up on this web site.
You guys hae been a great help, thanks!
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