The tech from Aquajet finally returned my call, I told him the symptoms and he said I needed a new pump, that there were problems inside the 2003 vintage pump itself, but not the pressure switch, that have been resolved in the current model # 55-Aquajet-ARV. BTW,I mentioned that the clear bodied filter has a bubble of air in it, he said that the bubble is normal. Aquajet does not sell directly to the public. I found the new pump at RVeParts, Lebanon TN, for $170.82 including UPS shipping from their nearby Corona, CA warehouse. I saw prices that went well over $200 from other suppliers.The new pump is a direct replacement for the old one and all fittings are the same. BTW, I watched a You Tube video on pump replacement that recommends turning the water heater diverter valve to keep it's water from flowing downhill to the pump when the old pump is disconnected from the outlet side water line. Of course I'll drain the fresh water tank too. Should have new pump by Saturday. We'll be using our rig's bathroom, etc., at our annual multi-family 4th of July picnic at a park in Long Beach. Anxious to resume camping/touring after long lapse due to wife's breast cancer and home remodel, etc.
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edited 06/20/12 10:48pm by Bordercollie *
I have to change the valve outside to fill the FW tank. Don't know about yours, but if the FW tank is 'empty' the pump won't see pressure. At least that's the way my old 00 Jayco is set up.
Since you are not new to RVs, having joined in 2002. I'm guessing that the pressure sensor in your pump is out.
I'm 'assuming', Yeah Yeah I know about the Assuming thing,,, that when you unhook from the 'city' water and use the pump to make pressure. It still produces the normal amount of flow? If not, you either don't have water in the FW tank, or you have a valve shut off, that supplies water to the pump.
If the Tioga has an auto switch-over feature that solenoid valve may be defective, leaving a loop in the system so that it does not achieve the required 'static' pressure.
If you had a plumbing problem, a couple of minutes of operation would have you running for the mop bucket. You are checking the basement storage compartments for leaks,,,, right?
* This post was
edited 06/21/12 07:18am by rehoppe *
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
It was an internal problem in the older model pump itself, not the pressure switch or a leak problem, per "Bill" of Aquajet. The new pump should work and shut itself off properly, we'll see. Will report back.
Aquatec Bill was right, the old pump was done for. Here are some things I learned on You Tube, and in the process of removing old and installing the new 5.3GPM "55 Aquatec ARV" smart pump:
1.Before disconnecting water outlet and filter connections, put the diverter valve on the hot water tank to divert position, 6 gallons of water will not drain into pump area. Raise inlet tubing from tank above tank level to keep tank water from draining into pump area.
2. Aquatec pumps have a clever "guillotine" feature that grabs inlet and outlet fittings designed to fit Aquajet pumps. Slide forward, to remove and insert outlet fitting and inlet filter, slide back to lock in place. Amazing, no leaks.
3.The pump comes with a fuse holder in the positive wire side that mates with the old fuse holder half.For the negative/ground side, you'll need a connector crimping tool and splice connector. I soldere spliced the RV ground wire to the pump ground wire, covering the splice with heat shrink tubing, you could use electrical tape. Red pump wire to red positive 12 vdc. Black pump wire to RV ground wire. ( My RV to pump ground wire was white and red, not black)
4.Install pump mount screws just barely tight to allow rubber mounts to reduce pump sounds, needed to reuse the washers from the old pump mounting.
5. Ran pump, released air in lines, it shut off when faucet was shut off ( Phew!!!Aquatec Bill was right).
6.Some rattling in water lines. Jammed plastic shopping bags into places where water lines rattled against things in low drain valve area.
New pump is acceptably quiet going full blast and quite quiet just washing hands. I have read where perfectionists spent years trying to quiet pumps and installing accumulator tanks, etc. Others like to hear pump to know when a faucet was not shut off or a leak has developed. Now I can install the new print head in my Lexmark printer and work on some other stuff I've been procrastinating about.
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edited 06/23/12 12:09pm by Bordercollie *
A PS: If you are thinking of replacing a lower capacity OEM fresh water pump with a 5.3 gallon per minute "55 Aquatec ARV" or similar, be aware that you may have to install an Intellitec 10 or 15 amp controller gizmo and maybe larger guage wire and maybe a relay to provide enough power to the pump. This could be daunting for many of us and it may be better to have an experienced RV repair guy do it for you, get estimates. Cost of pump and installation could go over $300.
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edited 06/24/12 10:17am by Bordercollie *