Bottom line is where it ends up when finished fine tuning
The trailer should be level at it's highest pointing and I like slightly pointing
down
The TV orientation is no longer the old rule of thumb of even drop. Follow your
glove box manual, as there variations from OEM to OEM
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
You can also get a hitch ball with a 1" rise. Your standard ball is approximately a 1/4" rise, so the 1" would net you approx. 3/4" if you need it. I got mine from etrailer.com.
I dont like this arguement that the trailer has to level. I dont care if the trailer looks pretty going down the road. I adjust my hitch so the trailer and TV are at there greatest stability. I dont agree that level is always best, it varys trailer to trailer
chevor wrote: I dont like this arguement that the trailer has to level. I dont care if the trailer looks pretty going down the road. I adjust my hitch so the trailer and TV are at there greatest stability. I dont agree that level is always best, it varys trailer to trailer
With a tandem axle trailer, you need it level enough that the weight is equally spread to all 4 wheels by the springs and equalizer bars.
chevor wrote: I dont like this arguement that the trailer has to level. I dont care if the trailer looks pretty going down the road. I adjust my hitch so the trailer and TV are at there greatest stability. I dont agree that level is always best, it varys trailer to trailer
With a tandem axle trailer, you need it level enough that the weight is equally spread to all 4 wheels by the springs and equalizer bars.
FWIW, my TT with spread axles is 2"+ low in the front and has the same weight on both axles. I weighed it on our last trip 2 weeks ago. Both axles were 3250lbs. I wonder how far nose low I could go before the weight would change.
It doesn't matter where you start out at, only where you end up. Adjust the ball height to whatever height is necessary for the trailer to be level, or slightly nose-down, once everything is hitched up and adjusted. You don't want the trailer to be nose-up.
SoCalDesertRider wrote: It doesn't matter where you start out at, only where you end up. Adjust the ball height to whatever height is necessary for the trailer to be level, or slightly nose-down, once everything is hitched up and adjusted. You don't want the trailer to be nose-up.
It matters where you start out at when the camper isn't at home. I might get lucky and not have to adjust anything when i go to pick it up next time. Yeah right.
SoCalDesertRider wrote: It doesn't matter where you start out at, only where you end up. Adjust the ball height to whatever height is necessary for the trailer to be level, or slightly nose-down, once everything is hitched up and adjusted. You don't want the trailer to be nose-up.
It matters where you start out at when the camper isn't at home. I might get lucky and not have to adjust anything when i go to pick it up next time. Yeah right.
LOL No one can reasonably expect to properly set up a hitch when the trailer isn't even in the vicinity!
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