Having a look around me at the many problems people have with diesels that failed on them, I am putting up some known cases of failure (with identifying information deleted) of failures caused by mods.
Mods are great when they work and when they are properly engineered and validated.
It is beyond the ability of most shade tree mechanics to do the engineering and validation work.
The principles behind engineering and validation are often simple, but application of simple principles often lead to many unexpected complexities.
Let's have a discussion about what mods do, and what problems it causes.
The adage:
"Weak points cannot be eliminated, only moved around" applies.
When mods are applied, they are altering a system's behavior in ways that cannot be always foreseen.
If an engine is made to do (x) and it is suddenly asked to do (x plus 20) something somewhere is being worked harder, and somewhere, something will be altered, whether tolerances, safety margins, etc.
Increased rail pressure causes increased injector wear and shorter life. It is just like how a water-jet works.
Increased fuel causes hotter combustion temperatures and hotter EGTs. Can also put a turbo outside of its map and it is no longer efficient (generates more heat than usable boost). Smaller turbo can also cause increased drive pressures and turbo overspeeding.
Increased timing can also cause hotter combustion temperatures with & without increased EGTs. Can cause piston melting without warning of hotter exhaust.
Increased boost can stretch head bolts and/or blown head gasket(s).
Water/meth injection failure/leak can cause too much injection and blow head gasket, head bolt, bent connecting rod.
Increased engine speed... yeah it can come apart.
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer, ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges in cubby hole, GDP 20/2 filters on frame rail, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
Honda EU3000I Genny
One group is trying to build to build toy trucks (high hp, lifted, etc.) that really don't care much about reliability.
Those who are towing generally need to be concerned with reliability, though because of relatively low miles (compared to commercial trucks) they are willing to get a bit more power for a bit more long term issues.
Then there are commercial applications where steady reliability is a must because a "down" truck cost so much.
When someone buy a used truck the first question on the back of the mind is what was the previous owner(s) doing when they had it?
The biggest thing that causes "bombed or juiced" trucks to fail is the operators right foot! The thing sitting on your shoulders is not just a hat rack. My truck has a 150 horse box on it. I have over 200k with no issues. I pay very close attention to the pyro and boost numbers and I do not tow in any of the higher power setting.
'03 GMC 2500HD
'12 Jayco 25BHS
Rugrat: Peyton
Labs: Catfish, Katy, CJ
GO DAWGS!!!
When OEM set ups are considered from the manufacturer they take into account ALL of the parameters which include power, reliability and economy. When you discount ANY of those three and tune JUST for more power then often the other two legs are diminished. An engine has just so much to give and when one parameter is increased SOMETHING must be reduced. Probably the BEST outcome is to reduce BOTH of the other two (reduce reliability a little and reduce economy a little, which leaves you with a pretty good engine. This would be unacceptable to manufacturers because THEY are left to clean up the mess when it fails (warranty work) just as the owner is left to reap the results of his tune up when it fails.
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR - 2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles) 2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
Not a single issue with my minor mods and what some would call "lack of maintenance" on my 48RE. In 186,000 miles I have never adjusted the bands and never will unless there is an issue directly related to them. Regular fluid and filter changes do happen though. A lot has to do with the carbon life form behind the wheel.
NavyDood wrote: Not a single issue with my minor mods and what some would call "lack of maintenance" on my 48RE. In 186,000 miles I have never adjusted the bands and never will unless there is an issue directly related to them. Regular fluid and filter changes do happen though. A lot has to do with the carbon life form behind the wheel.
Your going to have a premature failure if you don't adj. the bands, I guarantee it. The band will apply looser and looser until it starts slipping. It's very similar to slipping a clutch but you won't know when it happens. The lining on the band is extremely thin and will flake off quickly as it over heats. Then the bare metal will dig into the drum and destroy it. Drums are no longer produced so they are very expensive.
Not slamming you, just trying to keep you from having to waste money on an otherwise unnecessary repair.
Thank goodness they've done away with that technology in the newest trans.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
H0NDA eu2000i
NavyDood wrote: Not a single issue with my minor mods and what some would call "lack of maintenance" on my 48RE. In 186,000 miles I have never adjusted the bands and never will unless there is an issue directly related to them. Regular fluid and filter changes do happen though. A lot has to do with the carbon life form behind the wheel.
I've seen more 48's hosed by people that "try" and adjust their bands then if they just would have left it alone. Adjusting those bands are a touchy deal. A lot of people "think" they know how to do it; but in the end they find out they don't.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
NavyDood wrote: Not a single issue with my minor mods and what some would call "lack of maintenance" on my 48RE. In 186,000 miles I have never adjusted the bands and never will unless there is an issue directly related to them. Regular fluid and filter changes do happen though. A lot has to do with the carbon life form behind the wheel.
I've seen more 48's hosed by people that "try" and adjust their bands then if they just would have left it alone. Adjusting those bands are a touchy deal. A lot of people "think" they know how to do it; but in the end they find out they don't.
I have no idea what they are doing wrong - it's an easy process but just because people goof it up doesn't mean it shouldn't be done correctly.