topflite51 wrote: I believe in doing all that I can to extend the life of the engine, IF and it is a big IF, if synthetic oil can help at all, then WHY NOT?
Because in engine oil...it may not be worth the added $$. In a DP...oil changed every 7K...or 10K miles..and not under HARSH operating conditions...its a waste of $$.
Take a heavy gasser with a V10...spinning quick just going down the highway...and oil changes quicker because of the small amount of oil in the pan...probably well worth it.
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
Thanks for the posts, The whole zinc thing has had me wondering for awhile now. Where can you get zinc additive? And will it do me any good? The last few years I'm lucky to get 3000 miles on an oil change.
1990 GEORGIE BOY 28' 454 4BBL, TURBO 400 TRANS, Thorley Headers B&M trans cooler. Auto meter hooked to output of trans. Flowmaster mufflers recurved distributor Still Keepin on Truckin((((Was 7.5mpg Now 8.75mpg ))))
Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment.
Our STP Oil Treatment contains the zinc anti-wear agent ZDDP. This ingredient was once found in most motor oils. If you add one 15 ounce bottle to four to five quarts of oil, it will provide the same protection as the older motor oils once provided. The amount of ZDDP in the product is proprietary. Many classic car owners with flat tappet cam motors use our product for this reason.
We hope this information is helpful to you. Again, thank you contacting us.
Sincerely,
Patti Copper
Consumer Response Representative
OR the other option is to use VR1 from Valvoline.
Dave
The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
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I ran a search on oil, after reading through a bunch of other peoples experiences, I came up with this: Oil thicker than 10-30 is not needed, even in climates exceeding 100 deg. The thinner oil gets through the engine components and your oil cooler more efficiently, so, stands to reason that the oil will be cooler. The majority opinion is that synthetic oils are superior to reg oil.
Brian in Michigan wrote: Ok the great debate still goes on. I have a "90" 454. I started using Mobil 1 at 15k miles it now has 42k. Typically I change it once a year whether it needs it or not. Now I am assuming I have a flat tappet engine and from viewing other debates it seems like using 15-W40 Delo seems to be the oil of choice for this engine. Other than money, am I further ahead to use Delo or should I stick with Mobil 1 10-W30?. I use no oil between changes and it stays fairly golden for the first 2000 miles. Now with this being said, last year I lost the back end of a oil pressure switch and lost 6 out of the 7.5 quarts of oil before I got it shut down. As of right now I have put about 2500 miles on the engine with no issues. ( no oil usage no knocking ) So, Delo or Mobil 1?
I would use either a 15W-40 diesel rated oil (any of them will work fine) or Quaker State Defy, which is designed for older flat-tappet engines with extra anti-wear additives. I ran it in my Cherokee and had an oil analysis done...it had some of the best wear numbers the lab had EVER seen from a Jeep 4.0...and my Cherokee has 180,000 miles!
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with 3 nutty cats
My beloved St. Bernard, Marm, lost him 1/2/12
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion
semiretiredDIY wrote: I ran a search on oil, after reading through a bunch of other peoples experiences, I came up with this: Oil thicker than 10-30 is not needed, even in climates exceeding 100 deg. The thinner oil gets through the engine components and your oil cooler more efficiently, so, stands to reason that the oil will be cooler. The majority opinion is that synthetic oils are superior to reg oil.
2X
I only use Rotella 5W-40 so I only have to stock one engine oil for our since we have from lawn mowers to diesel engines. Synthetic is not required but I was glad I had a fresh change of it when my mistake I got on the old run going into Yosemite and did the long hard pull doing 15 MPH at WOT. I do think the oil film is a tad stronger with synthetic. Again I do not know if the engine can tell the difference but it does give me more piece of mind under extreme conditions.
I do think it is better for air cooled engines that tend to run as much as 100F hotter with no oil coolers.
semiretiredDIY wrote: I ran a search on oil, after reading through a bunch of other peoples experiences, I came up with this: Oil thicker than 10-30 is not needed, even in climates exceeding 100 deg. The thinner oil gets through the engine components and your oil cooler more efficiently, so, stands to reason that the oil will be cooler. The majority opinion is that synthetic oils are superior to reg oil.
2X
I only use Rotella 5W-40 so I only have to stock one engine oil for our since we have from lawn mowers to diesel engines. Synthetic is not required but I was glad I had a fresh change of it when my mistake I got on the old run going into Yosemite and did the long hard pull doing 15 MPH at WOT. I do think the oil film is a tad stronger with synthetic. Again I do not know if the engine can tell the difference but it does give me more piece of mind under extreme conditions.
I do think it is better for air cooled engines that tend to run as much as 100F hotter with no oil coolers.
But a thicker oil like 5W-40 will not cool as fast as a 10W-30....
semiretiredDIY wrote: I ran a search on oil, after reading through a bunch of other peoples experiences, I came up with this: Oil thicker than 10-30 is not needed, even in climates exceeding 100 deg. The thinner oil gets through the engine components and your oil cooler more efficiently, so, stands to reason that the oil will be cooler. The majority opinion is that synthetic oils are superior to reg oil.
Sorry you and they are so wrong . Sorry you and they are so wrong .
In Europe where they do not have "CAFE" requirements (look it up) they use 40 weight oils and they have the same engines . To think that they make different engines for Europe is ludicrous . They are the same engine and their owners manuals state to use 40 weight oils - why , this is why they are far more efficient at lubrication.
In America to meet CAFE requirements they advise to use thinner oils for EPA mileage gains.
Will your engine blow up with 20 and 30 weight oils no
Are they better for your engine than a 40 weight in hot weather - again NO
The INTERNET myth that thinner oil will move through and engine easier is laughable at best .
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On to synthetic oils being better - well yes and no
they will last longer - but in diesel engines where you have fuel dilution you do not want that oil in longer
they can handle heat better - ( but if your engine gets that hot you should worry more about more than oil )( but if your engine gets that hot you should worry more about why it gets that hot than the oil thats in it )
Syn oil has a place but it is not better than conventional oils it just has superior properties than can be utilized in certain circumstances , very few that have any applicable use in recreational vehicle use though .
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