The mark on the bottom tells me the bearing was adjusted too loose and the bottom of the spindle was supproting all the weight. If adjusted properly, the loading is equal all the way around.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
H0NDA eu2000i
You don't need to get a mortgage to buy these bearing sets. They're pretty cheap so why not put a new set in and replace the race and seals. Do it right the first time so you're not sitting on the side of the road with sweat running down your grease streaked face at midnight in some god forsaken part of the country wishing you'd had spent the extra $10 bucks and done it right the first time.
Of course that's just my opinion you can do it however you want.
2010 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8315BSS
2003 Chevy Silverado 1/2 Ton Extended Cab
ScottG wrote: The mark on the bottom tells me the bearing was adjusted too loose and the bottom of the spindle was supproting all the weight. If adjusted properly, the loading is equal all the way around.
Actually, no. No matter how tight the bearing nut is, if there is play between the inner race and the spindle, gravity will take care of having the spindle rest on the inner race bore. The inner bore (cone race) supports the weight of the spindle. How tight the nut is does not change where the spindle rests on the inner bore. If there is tolerance there (and there always is in this application) the distance will be taken up by the weight of the spindle pushing down on the inner race. The only way to eliminate the mark is to have a press fit, which could be done, but changing bearings would be a real bummer. As long as axle bearings have some play, this mark is likely to exist. Bearing size accuracy in relation to spindle diameter is the key.
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"...An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
Sunset Creek 298 BH