As an auto tech, we have been replacing more brake lines in the last 5 yrs than my previous 20. Most of our problems stem from the new magnesium/chloride solution used here on the roads for the winter. Another factor is that people are keeping their vehicles longer because they still run well. Also, as previously stated...parking over dirt or gravel adds to the problem.
I live in the salt/rust belt here in Michigan. In addition to the winter salt, I run gravel roads in the summer that have been treated with calcium cloride. My daily drivers get used hard 6 days a week, and are parked on gravel nightly. In the last 6 years, I`ve had 3 1999`s and 1 2000 Chevy 1500 4X4`s. I pick them up cheap at about 150K miles with the body rusting pretty badly. I run them another 50 to 60 thou before peddling them off. While the brake lines have looked pretty suspect, I`ve never had one let go.
2008 Duramax/Allison LT2 Crew cab Standard Box. Hellwig Air Assist. BD Diesel VVT Turbo Brake. 2003 Coachmen Chaparral 295 IKS
One of the hard brake lines on my piece of garbage Toyota went last year. (I can't imagine why they don't design these things better! I had carefully washed the top of the car twice a year for 18 years in the northeast US. ) I replaced all the brake lines with copper brake line. That stuff made the job really easy.
The pedal went to the floor because the brake line that was busted was coming off the master cyl. The master cyl. was pumped dry from the leak. Over a period of days or weeks, I don't know how long, its leaked all the fluid out.
2008 30ft Aerolite, white interior, 2003 Suburban 6.0L 3.73 gears
marcus6701 wrote: The pedal went to the floor because the brake line that was busted was coming off the master cyl. The master cyl. was pumped dry from the leak. Over a period of days or weeks, I don't know how long, its leaked all the fluid out.
The MC should be divided in the MC its self front to rear. Brakes have been redundant for many, many years.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
marcus6701 wrote: The pedal went to the floor because the brake line that was busted was coming off the master cyl. The master cyl. was pumped dry from the leak. Over a period of days or weeks, I don't know how long, its leaked all the fluid out.
The MC should be divided in the MC its self front to rear. Brakes have been redundant for many, many years.
The pedal will still go to or feel like it went to the floor even if one of the reservoirs still has fluid in it. I've worked on quite a few brake systems. If there is an internal leak in the master cylinder between the halves of the piston (pretty common on older master cylinders) you will feel the pedal continue sinking. There will be a little bit of braking power but it will feel like it's gone, especially if the front brakes were what went out. It's pretty scary that it was that line that went out, it's generally pretty well protected under the hood.
I'm really surprised at the people who say they "nursed it home". Please do yourself and us a favor and use your AAA/Good Sam/ whatever brand towing insurance or pay full price to get your vehicle towed home or to a shop if the brakes fail, especially if you have a trailer attached. Just because you have some braking power doesn't mean it will stay there. If you are only using one or two brakes to stop a vehicle, you not only have reduced braking power, but the remaining brakes are very likely to fade out after one or two stops, and usually the parking brake uses the same pads as the service brakes so it's not going to stop you in an emergency. Is it really worth saving a few bucks on a tow bill to get into a serious accident because you chose to drive with bad brakes?
I've got one (1) cap on the reservoir. I opened and there is nothing in it. I aggree there is a front and rear on the MC but the res. does not look like it has a front and rear. Its empty.
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) I replaced all the brake lines with copper brake line. That stuff made the job really easy.
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