Can you get a heat pump? This way on the cool/cold nights you can get heat using the campgrounds electrical power not your propane.
Please give me enough troubles, uncertainty, problems, obstacles and STRESS so that I do not become arrogant, proud, and smug in my own abilities, and enough blessings and good times that I realize that someone else is in charge of my life.
A 8000 BTU window unit should cool just fine IF it's located high on a wall and has good circulation throughout a 13 ft. trailer. I own a 13 ft trailer with an old 5000 BTU window unit and it will cool very well even in Texas summer.
Trailers are not like houses where that to big of an A/C is bad since they won't cycle long enough to remove the humidity. A trailer is like your car you want something that can cool it and cool it fast and bigger is better. I'd much rather have to much A/C in a trailer than not enough.
Anybody that lived through the 50's and 60's remembers what it was like to have a small window unit that was supposed to cool the whole house. In the summer time all your activities would revolve around a little space in front of that little A/C or else you were burning up on the other side of the room.
2010 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8315BSS
2003 Chevy Silverado 1/2 Ton Extended Cab
Eycom wrote: According to the truck camper guys, a 9.2 polar cub will run off a Honda 2000 and is sufficient to cool an 8 1/2 to 10 ft truck camper. That would be equal to a 14 to 16' trailer. I have a 13.5 a/c in a 20' camper, runs off shore power or the 3.5k on-board genney and it's over-kill even in the Florida summers.
How did you figure that? A 16 foot trailer easily has twice the interior square footage as an 10 foot truck camper.
I can appreciate how you've come to that conclusion. However, a look at Lance's website, while noting the size of campers, will indicate that a 10' TC will run in the 18' range with the cab-over. Heck! I've got two closets with drawers, a 60"x80" north/south queen bed and a shirt closet up there in the loft. I heat & cool, read, watch tv, store items and sleep in that space. That's too much space and utility to ignore.
Thank you to everyone that took the time to respond. It appears that there's no consensus on the A/C options. Here are my thoughts so far. Maybe you could tell me where my thinking is flawed.
The 8,000 BTU through-wall unit ... My common-sense tells me that it's "standard" for a reason. Because it's meant for "normal" cooling conditions, and not for hot, humid Florida summers. However, it is a small trailer and it's hard to get too far away from its cooling air. My first thought was, "Well, that should be big enough for such a small trailer!" Plus, I won't have to pay extra for it.
The 13,500 BTU roof Dometic Penguin is probably more than enough A/C for me, and I think it's good to "miss big". But, unless I want to get a 2,400+ watt generator - I'm limited to shore power campsites.
The 9,200 BTU Coleman Polar Cub seems like a good compromise between the two, but I'm still not convinced.
Are there any generalizations between the quality of Coleman A/Cs and Dometic A/Cs?
Are there any downsides to having a roof-top A/C? It seems like it would be best to minimize the number of "entry ways" for water to get into a trailer. As a homeowner in rainy Florida, we are always encouraged to minimize the number of intrusions into our roofs for things like skylights - because they always seem to end up leaking. Just a thought.
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