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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > something is wrong

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jmtandem

western nevada

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Posted: 06/30/12 09:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

you can adjust it yourself. It may be as simple as pulling another link in the chain.


This is not a hitch that uses chains. It has washers and bolt holes in the L brackets for the spring bars.

* This post was edited 07/01/12 04:58pm by jmtandem *


'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.
'09 299bhs Tango.

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 07/01/12 07:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You should have a manual for your hitch that came with it. If not, go to the Equal-i-zer web site and download it.

Then load up the trailer for travel, and with your fresh water tank full. (We always leave with a full water tank, to use along the way.) Hook up the hitch and check your measurements. Use the INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE HITCH to set it up properly.

Do this and you will be fine. That is a great hitch.

You do need to lubricate the ball, and the front pivot points on the bars. The hitch is normally noisy, especially if there is moisture on it or when new. The noise will decrease as the metal wears a tiny bit. Don't worry about it.


2006 Toyota Sienna
Single empty-nester in Middle TN

mkirsch

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 07/01/12 09:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you "picked up" your trailer, it was for the first time, wasn't it?

You trusted the dealer to set up the weight distributing hitch, right?

The one universal truth of buying a travel trailer is that the dealer hitch setup is ALWAYS wrong. Even if they set it up properly, it was for the EMPTY trailer. You added 1000+ pounds of weight to the trailer. That is going to change things.

There are two choices here. Give up, and sell the trailer, or learn to adjust the hitch.

Really it's not that big a deal. Check out the WD hitch setup sticky in this forum for some of the basic concepts. Your ultimate goal is to return the front fender of your truck back to its original unhitched height with the WD hitch.


2002 Chevy 3500 DRW/8.1/Allison & 2000 Palomino B1500 popup TC

-Yes, I haul a popup with a dually. No, I don't think I need a dually to haul a popup.

Ron Gratz

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Posted: 07/01/12 09:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron Gratz (in a previous thread) wrote:

Did you record the front and rear measurements for all three conditions?
If you can post the fender heights, it would help us to provide meaningful advice about your hitch adjustment.
Mastiff mama (in the previous thread) wrote:

I will post the measurments tonight when I get home from work

Have you made a full set of fender height measurements?

Without that information, we have no basis for knowing how the WDH is adjusted.

Ron

Terryallan

Foothills NC

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Posted: 07/01/12 09:58pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mkirsch wrote:

When you "picked up" your trailer, it was for the first time, wasn't it?

You trusted the dealer to set up the weight distributing hitch, right?

The one universal truth of buying a travel trailer is that the dealer hitch setup is ALWAYS wrong. Even if they set it up properly, it was for the EMPTY trailer. You added 1000+ pounds of weight to the trailer. That is going to change things.

There are two choices here. Give up, and sell the trailer, or learn to adjust the hitch.

Really it's not that big a deal. Check out the WD hitch setup sticky in this forum for some of the basic concepts. Your ultimate goal is to return the front fender of your truck back to its original unhitched height with the WD hitch.


Picked up my new TT today. Dealer did a great job of setting up the hitch. Drove home 2 hours on I-85, 60-65, and a couple times 70 mph. NO sway, Truck, and TT sit level, Big trucks don't bother it. Great to drive. I will say that when we hit the sever thunderstorm. the wing made it wiggle a few times. Even DW said she thought she felt it once. Wind was strong enough, that once it hit us dead on, and slowed the truck like hitting the brakes.

We'll see how it does after tis loaded with all our stuff. About 600lbs. Weighed in the previous TT. But we are going to cut it down some. We haven't used a lot of stuff we took out of the old one. So it won't be going back into the new one.


Terry & Shay
Coachman Apex 288BH.
04 F150, 5.4, Lariat SuperCab
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Mastiff mama

Victoria

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Posted: 07/02/12 11:02am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the advice. I have to go buy the tools tomorrow to adjust the hitch. While trying to determine how to add the washers I noticed some of the washers are missing. Looks like they broke off. There is a lot of play where the washers are located. It would also appear the washer are not the correct ones. They are all compressed and distorted. I am going to go take the receiver to the dealer to show them.

scotteam

LEWISTON maine

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Posted: 07/09/12 04:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A LOT OF WHAT IS SAID HERE IS CORRECT. HOWEVER LUBRICATION IS NOT. LUBRICATION RESULTS IN LESS FRICTION IN ALL THE SCIENCE CLASSES I TOOK. HOW ABOUT YOURS? IF YOU HAVE LESS FRICTION YOU HAVE MORE SWAY ON A HITCH THAT USES FRICTION TO REDUCE SWAY. THE NOISE YOU HERE IS GOOD IF IT IS IN CORNERING. IF IT IS NOT IN CORNERING THAN SOMETHING IS NOT SET RIGHT. I HAVE NEVER OWNED A Equalizer hitch AND WAS CONSIDERING ONE BUT I THINK I WILL GO BACK TO REESE DUAL CAM SWAY CONTROL. ITS NOISY BUT I KNOW IT WORKS. YOU HAVE BETTER CONTROL ON ADJUSTMENTS TOO.

BarneyS wrote:

Where is the water tank? If in front of the axles then you probably have a lot more tongue weight than you had before and your hitch was not adjusted properly. If the water tank is behind the axles then it is quite possible it unloaded your tongue and that would contribute to a sway condition. I would check out the hitch carefully and then check the adjustment. We have a good sticky thread at the top of this forum to help you get your hitch set up correctly. Take a look at it if you have not already done so.

As for the noise, are you putting grease on the bars where they go into the hitch head and on the ball? If not, then that is probably the source of your noise.

Lack of lubrication will also be a source of rapid bar and hitch head wear if you do not apply some grease. Any type of grease will work. I use plain old wheel bearing grease. There is a lot of metal on metal pressure in a hitch and it need lubrication to function quietly and without undo wear.
Hope this helps.
Barney



Scot St. Hilaire
2012 north country 30bhs
2008 Chevy silverado 4x4 5.3 1500
9400 towing capacity
http://sthilaireinspectionandcontracting.com/
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BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 07/09/12 05:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

scotteam wrote:

A LOT OF WHAT IS SAID HERE IS CORRECT. HOWEVER LUBRICATION IS NOT. LUBRICATION RESULTS IN LESS FRICTION IN ALL THE SCIENCE CLASSES I TOOK. HOW ABOUT YOURS? IF YOU HAVE LESS FRICTION YOU HAVE MORE SWAY ON A HITCH THAT USES FRICTION TO REDUCE SWAY. THE NOISE YOU HERE IS GOOD IF IT IS IN CORNERING. IF IT IS NOT IN CORNERING THAN SOMETHING IS NOT SET RIGHT. I HAVE NEVER OWNED A Equalizer hitch AND WAS CONSIDERING ONE BUT I THINK I WILL GO BACK TO REESE DUAL CAM SWAY CONTROL. ITS NOISY BUT I KNOW IT WORKS. YOU HAVE BETTER CONTROL ON ADJUSTMENTS TOO.

BarneyS wrote:

Where is the water tank? If in front of the axles then you probably have a lot more tongue weight than you had before and your hitch was not adjusted properly. If the water tank is behind the axles then it is quite possible it unloaded your tongue and that would contribute to a sway condition. I would check out the hitch carefully and then check the adjustment. We have a good sticky thread at the top of this forum to help you get your hitch set up correctly. Take a look at it if you have not already done so.

As for the noise, are you putting grease on the bars where they go into the hitch head and on the ball? If not, then that is probably the source of your noise.

Lack of lubrication will also be a source of rapid bar and hitch head wear if you do not apply some grease. Any type of grease will work. I use plain old wheel bearing grease. There is a lot of metal on metal pressure in a hitch and it need lubrication to function quietly and without undo wear.
Hope this helps.
Barney

Did you read my post? Where, in that post, is the error in regards to what I said about lubrication? By the way, I taught science for about 30 years.
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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