Rhigley
Downey Ca
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Joined: 11/03/2002
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I bought a 29 foot class "C" motor home on a v10 ford Chass. It did not have a jack or lug wrench with it.I need to buy one before I go a a long trip . What should I be looking for? 5 ton/12 ton?? Thanks
Class c tioga. 2006 Rhino 660 LE...On the road again!
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rvten
Crossville,TN
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Joined: 11/30/2000
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I use Road service. Let them do the Bull work.
Tom & Bonnie
Crossville, TN.
Aspect 29H 2008 Type C
Ford Flex SEL 2010
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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Joined: 12/23/2007
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I've got the 20-T for our 31-C. It only cost $10 more, and I feel a bit better knowing that I could practically lift the entire rig if I needed
HERE is what Harbor Freight has.
They offer two types....Low Profile and Regular, so you may want to measure the distance to your axle or support area before you buy one.
I also agree that you probably should have Roadside Assistance too, since you may or may not have a spare, and changing tires is a pain in the butt
Congrats on the new rig...Happy Camping
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris / GS MJ
Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie, Tugger & Beau
RIP: Cookie, Foxy & Gidget @ Rainbow Bridge.
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008 FMCA# F407293
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past-MIdirector
Michigan
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Lug wrench check NAPA or local truck stop for one big enough to break and retighten RV lugs. You need one heavy enough to ba able to add a breaker bar to it. I've had road service for the last 20+ years since MH tires have gotten bigger.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Rhigley wrote:I bought a 29 foot class "C" motor home on a v10 ford Chass. It did not have a jack or lug wrench with it.I need to buy one before I go a a long trip . What should I be looking for? 5 ton/12 ton?? Thanks
Either will work for lifting one wheel at a time.
We got the 20 ton like PapPappy from HF for a song but we have some heavy equipment around the place.
Bigger may be better BUT bigger is much heavier.
I do find a maxed out jack is harder to jack too.
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rjstractor
Auburn, WA
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pastMIdirector wrote:Lug wrench check NAPA or local truck stop for one big enough to break and retighten RV lugs. You need one heavy enough to ba able to add a breaker bar to it. I've had road service for the last 20+ years since MH tires have gotten bigger.
I'm going to have to disagree on the OPs particular coach. The E450 only takes 140 ft./lbs of torque to tighten, so you should not need a breaker bar. Using a breaker bar will likely result in overtightened lug nuts. A big diesel pusher of course is a different story.
1998 Gulfstream Ultra B/H Ford E450 V10
2005 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 w/ Maxidump insert
2006 Ford Escape Hybrid
1998 Saturn SL2 toad
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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rjstractor wrote:pastMIdirector wrote:Lug wrench check NAPA or local truck stop for one big enough to break and retighten RV lugs. You need one heavy enough to ba able to add a breaker bar to it. I've had road service for the last 20+ years since MH tires have gotten bigger.
I'm going to have to disagree on the OPs particular coach. The E450 only takes 140 ft./lbs of torque to tighten, so you should not need a breaker bar. Using a breaker bar will likely result in overtightened lug nuts. A big diesel pusher of course is a different story.
Hey I needed a four foot breaker bar and our 3/4" T handle to remove the 2" ball and put on 1 7/8" ball last night so I could use the tilt trailer today to pick up a 300 pound 3x5' shop table today.
The need for a breaker bar depends as much on the one doing the breaking as does what needs to be broken loose.
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navegator
San Diego CA.
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Purchase the jack with at least 20 ton rating, it will lift better than a smaller jack.
Purchase a 1/2" driver and a bar handle,that is at liast 24" inches long, an extention that meashures a minimum of 12" inches, and the sockets that fit the lug nuts, probably 7/8" inch.
Purchase a socket for the lug nuts of your toad if you pull one. take the lug nuts with you when you go to the parts store.
ALSO PURCHASE A PAIR OF WHEEL CHOCKS!!!!!
The wheel chocks are placed on the opposite corner of the tire that you are replacing, it is inshurance, yust in case the rig shifts, although the parking brake is on and the transmition is in park, it is better to be safe than sorry.
Also have a piece of wood 12" X 12" to place under the jack when you are on soft ground, that way youn are not pushing the jack into the ground and the rig is not lifting.
Look for collapsible wheel chocks, they take less space.
Read the manual that come with your rig, and learn where the lifting areas are for jacking up, and do practice on a level ground, that way if you need to change a tire you have the confidence and ashurance that you can.
Navegator
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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rjstractor wrote:
I'm going to have to disagree on the OPs particular coach. The E450 only takes 140 ft./lbs of torque to tighten, so you should not need a breaker bar. Using a breaker bar will likely result in overtightened lug nuts. A big diesel pusher of course is a different story.
The breaker bar is usually used for removing those nuts that have been on awhile, or which were put on by an over-zealous mechanic with an air gun. Yes, they should be set at about 140 ft/lbs, but are they????
I use a cheater bar to remove, but not to tighten
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johntank
Oxford, Ms 38655 USA
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Joined: 06/17/2003
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A good 4-way lug wrench with the size you need should be all you need for the lug nuts, for the jack as someone said the bigger the better if you think a 10 ton would do go for a 20 ton as it will make the jacking a lot less work (easier).
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