x2 on 3/4 Drive. 1/2 might be OK with breaker bar straight to a socket for the front wheels, but if you use a 1/2 extension on the rears, you'll spend most of your effort winding up the extension, like a torque stick, and there won't be enough to work the nut itself. Not positive, but I think a 1-1/16 socket works the E-Series wheel nuts. I have that in 3/4 drive, but I've found the NAPA four-way, for light trucks, works just fine. The "all I can do" torque checks out pretty close to a torque wrench.
We have 5, 10, and 12-ton jacks. The 12 is of course easiest, and maybe so much easier than the 10 because 12's an old Walker and 10's a cheapie Harbor Freight, but the 10 is OK too.
If you consider changing your own, check tightness on every nut at home at your leisure. Loosen and re-tighten to correct torque. Easier than on the side of the road in the rain.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
One disadvantage of the high capacity jacks is the increased number of strokes required to lift something. It is easier pumping but will take many more strokes.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
tarnold wrote: When you buy the 12 ton jack at harbor freight, also get one of the cheap 3/4" drive socket sets. Forget the ratchet and just use the breaker bar with the 3" extension for the rears. Get a short piece of pipe to fit over the breaker bar when things got over tightened. I've used this setup several times for maintenance at home.
This is what I did,1/2 in drive may not remove nuts.
FWIW, when we purchased our RV, it did not come with a spare nor a jack. When we asked, we were told by the dealer that it can be dangerous to change a tire on a class C, and we should have roadside assistance instead.
I certainly can't disagree on the 3/4" drives The extension will certainly be less springy. On the other hand I've never personally owned anything larger than 1/2". The 3/4" and 1" stuff were always 'shop tools'. And were kept in the Tool cage. I think my MH has 3/4" in the box for the tires. I hope to never have to use them however.
I looked at them when I bought it used and kept going! I have used 1/2" for some very heavy stuff with a cheater pipe that just fits in the tool box, somewhere around 30"s I'd guess. As weak as I am these days I can still break too much stuff if I get carried away. For me the big stuff is just too heave to carry around. Especially since I'll not be using 30" extensions to change the tire. I think 6"s will get it, and that won't entail a great deal of 'wind up'. If I had to provide my own I'd just throw in an old Craftsman breaker bar and 30"s or so of chain link 'top rail' and call it. If I break it, Sears will fix it.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
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