1.1 A sounds high, I'd expect closer to 0.3A or less w/o a radio.
But I've got some questions on the meter you used. DC current clamp on meters are generally hall effect sensors, and unless properly designed and calibrated can give noticeable errors at low current. They are sensitive to the earths and other magnetic fields and that can affect the measurement. First, did you do a zero on the meter before using it?? It should have a zeroing function. Next, w/o putting it around the lead, what does it read for current?? If it doesn't read "0.00" you'll need to add or subtract that reading from the meter reading. For example, if the meter reads .4A not around the positive lead and 1.1A when measuring, your real current is closer to 0.7A
I have couple of clamp on hall effect DC current meters. The inexpensive ones that measure to 100A or so (<$100) are good "qualitative" tools at low current levels , "is current flowing and if so lots or little". but not real accurate below about 10-15A. It takes a more expensive unit to have any reasonable accuracy at low (<10a) current levels.
In my case the clamp on meter will give a reading of about 1A corrected for parasitic draw, while the Trimetric monitor with a current shunt gives a reading of about 0.4A for parasitic draw,. I believe the Trimetric unit, not the clamp on meter. In my case the parastic draw includes the radio, along with detectors, fridge etc.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
Lots of odd little things. The Trimetric itself has a small draw even if you turn off its display. The water pump may not be running, but the small lamp showing it is switched on is lit if you leave it that way.
I'm using a fluke 36 clamp meter. It does have a zero in function. I started with 2.1 reading with it not clamped and 3.2 with it clamped on the red wire at the battery. I tested it turning my inverter on and with the inverter on with no load, the reading jumped up another amp. I have fuses in a couple of different compartments. I guess I'll have to start pulling 1 by one. I'm surprised that a refrigerator off would draw any power but learn something new every day.
My 1987 Norcold unit had a mechanical switch. When it was turned off, it was still on and just to make matters worse there was no battery disconnect switch. There was no "auto" setting on it. Just off, 12 volt, 120 volt, and gas.