I know that if I try to disconnect the batteries while plugged in with the disconnect switch and the refrig in on, they won't disconnect. The frig needs the 12volt even though it is on AC.
ffpm wrote: Do you disconnect the batteries when you have full hookups?
No, I never do. The Southwind is sitting in the driveway now, plugged in.
We full-timed in a 1977 Pace Arrow Class A, a 1988 Suncrest Class A, and a 1999 fifth wheel. Never disconnected the batteries in any of them while on shore power. We spent 13 to 26 weeks continuously plugged in. No troubles.
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
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CRAMD wrote: There is absolutely no reason to disconnect your batteries when you have full hookups.
Absolute statements are almost always wrong.
Not all campers have the latest in fancy converters and- if connected continuously- will over charge, "boil the batteries" and damage them. (Just as Vintage says.)
So, someone, hooked up for an extended time period, may have a valid reason to dissconnect the batteries.
Also, a lot of folks have an extremely handy switch so that the batteries can be disconnected with the flip of a switch.
One can certainly nit-pic these statements, but the bottom line is that most, if not all of these "vintage" converter/ chargers have extremely poor regulation and can easily drift north of 18V with no load (ie- My Pace did). Anyone having one of these old converter/ chargers needs to keep the batteries hooked up, and full of water, and watch them. Or invest in something like an IOTA float charger.
PS- The switch is there simply as a storage function.
In fact older converters (in my 2003 Thor for example) warned to NEVER connect shore power with battery disconnected as doing so could easily damage fridge and water heater control boards.
Chuck
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2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
There are three things that used to require the battery. I believe that is still true.
The furnace uses it for the fan.
The little distance switch for the antenna.
The Refrigerator to start.
On any unit you can check these out if you unhook the battery and see if they still work.
ReadyToGo wrote: There are three things that used to require the battery. I believe that is still true.
The furnace uses it for the fan.And the LP solenoid
The little distance switch for the antenna.A "distance" switch would imply an attenuator. Whats there is an amplifier
The Refrigerator to start.Not just to start, but the entire control board, including the LP valve
On any unit you can check these out if you unhook the battery and see if they still work.That's a really good way to kill appliances. They will work until they don't because something will have burned up.
Unless I missed a reply from the OP, he simply asked if he should unhook the batteries? Nobody has any more information than that on what make, model, year, and even why he asked? You can NOT just arbitrarily start removing batteries, run the converter/ charger alone and assume that everything will be fine. The newer, hi-end float chargers are usually regulated, MOST of the standard issue older chargers are not, and we have no idea what he has.
So the absolute answer is that NO, you cannot just unhook the batteries without a chance of damaging something.
* This post was
edited 07/02/12 11:02am by SCVJeff *
Batteries take so long to charge when on generator that without a solar kit, it would be crazy not to take advantage of usable juice. Even with a battery-boiler like my Parallax Power 7155, I always keep my batteries hooked up.
Unhooking batteries as stated above isn't a good idea -- they act as a "buffer" so devices can obtain a reasonably stable voltage without too many sags or spikes.
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