I would also check and see if the cable is getting hung up somewhere in the car. Hook everything up and manually push the car against the hitch and see if the surge brake arm, cable and pedal return to the brakes off position. You could also set the hand brake on the towd and have someone carefully back the MH while you watch the brake system work. Don't run the towd engine because you will be adding the power brakes to the mix and that might cover up the problem.
Based on what Willald and a poster on another forum wrote about needing 2" of slack in the cable (per the ReadyBrute tech), I'm sure mine was too tight. I followed the ReadyBrute written instructions, which were to tighten the cable until the toad brake lights come on, then loosen just until the lights go off. As mentioned above, I'll loosen some more and connect the dash indicator directly to the toad brake light switch. Thanks again.
RetiredBob wrote: Based on what Willald and a poster on another forum wrote about needing 2" of slack in the cable (per the ReadyBrute tech), I'm sure mine was too tight. I followed the ReadyBrute written instructions, which were to tighten the cable until the toad brake lights come on, then loosen just until the lights go off. As mentioned above, I'll loosen some more and connect the dash indicator directly to the toad brake light switch. Thanks again.
Yeah, this is one of those cases where the written instructions don't tell you the whole story. Their support is great, though, and if you call them they'll get you straightened out.
I did a few road tests with ours before our trip last week. In the road tests, I found that when you turn left or right, the cable will tighten some initially when you first start the turn, then loosen back up. If you don't have just a little slack in the cable to compensate for that (2" of slack as they told me), every time you turn it will pull the cable just enough to engage your toad brakes. That may well have been enough to cause the brake wear you were experiencing. 'Tis the reason why its very important as several of us have said, that you wire yourself an indicator to tell you when the toad brake pedal is being pulled down. Allows you to be sure you have it set right.
..Has anyone thought of (and would like to share) a way to make adjusting that cable easier? Thinking of adding a turnbuckle of some kind, but not sure that will help much..
mowermech wrote: However, I see no need for a 40 amp relay to activate one small light bulb! I would simply run a lead from the brake light switch (the "cold" side, not the "hot" side) to the light on the motorhome dash, and from the light to ground.
Using the relay preserves the ability to plug the indicator light into the ReadyBrake like ReadyBrake recommends and it will still work. The relay is cheap and is no harder to wire.
Bobbo, Linda and the furry kids (1&1/2 German Shepherds)
2007 Winnebago Outlook WF331C on a Ford E450 Super Duty Chassis
2010 Subaru Forester w/BlueOx baseplate & Ready Brute Elite towbar
Willald I also use a bungie cord and it works for me. Do a search for "ReadyBrake" on the forums, I remember seeing a post where someone did just what you are thinking by using a turnbuckle on the brake cable>
Cal & Donna
Starr (our Lab mix)
2000 FourWinds Chateau 31S
Rickson 17.5 Wheels and Toyo tires
Sani-Con Sewer Solution
Pressure Pro System
1996 Grand Cherokee Toad W/Ready Brake System
Rand McNally RVND 5510
Bigfoot Levelers
cal47 wrote: ..Do a search for "ReadyBrake" on the forums, I remember seeing a post where someone did just what you are thinking by using a turnbuckle on the brake cable>
Yeah, I saw one post recently, where someone just said they were going to look into such, but that was it. I'm just not convinced a turnbuckle will work in this case for various reasons. Was hoping to hear some specific experiences from anyone that did make such work.
I'll run another search or two, see what comes up.
I installed a turnbuckle on my brake tether cable, and it worked great for making small adjustments as the cable stretched a bit during the first few hundred miles. Since then, I haven't had to touch it. If you do add a turnbuckle, get a wing nut to use as a jam nut, making it a no tools needed adjustment.
Dutch_12078 wrote: I installed a turnbuckle on my brake tether cable, and it worked great for making small adjustments as the cable stretched a bit during the first few hundred miles. Since then, I haven't had to touch it. If you do add a turnbuckle, get a wing nut to use as a jam nut, making it a no tools needed adjustment.
Ahhh, I wondered about that, if a jam nut or two wouldnt be needed to prevent it from inadvertently getting twisted and out of adjustment.
Dutch, might you have more specifics of the turnbuckle you used, and the jam nuts? Should I use something like this 1/4 by 7 1/2 turnbuckle or a 3/16 by 5 1/2 turnbuckle like this one?
I'm assuming you put a jam nut on both sides of the turnbuckle?
We're going to Lowe's tonight for some other things, I think I'm going to pick up a turnbuckle and some wing nuts while we're there...
Will
* This post was
edited 07/02/12 11:45am by willald *
Dutch_12078 wrote: I installed a turnbuckle on my brake tether cable, and it worked great for making small adjustments as the cable stretched a bit during the first few hundred miles. Since then, I haven't had to touch it. If you do add a turnbuckle, get a wing nut to use as a jam nut, making it a no tools needed adjustment.
Ahhh, I wondered about that, if a jam nut or two wouldnt be needed to prevent it from inadvertently getting twisted and out of adjustment.
Dutch, might you have more specifics of the turnbuckle you used, and the jam nuts? Should I use something like this 1/4 by 7 1/2 turnbuckle or a 3/16 by 5 1/2 turnbuckle like this one?
I'm assuming you put a jam nut on both sides of the turnbuckle?
We're going to Lowe's tonight for some other things, I think I'm going to pick up a turnbuckle and some wing nuts while we're there...
Will
Sorry for the late reply, somehow I missed your post.
I used a 3/16" x 6" SS turnbuckle similar to the one you linked to, except that it has welded eyes. The Lowes one looks like it ought to work OK though. I only used a wing jam nut on one side, since I couldn't find a left hand threaded nut at the time. The jam nut just serves to keep the turnbuckle from vibrating and loosening up, and the one wing nut seems to do the job.
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