BradF, read further back in this thread, where I related what ReadyBrake support told me - You want to allow enough slack so that the cable can be pushed down (or pulled up) 2", before brakes engage. I think yours was indeed a little too tight, only allow about 1 or 1.5".
Dutch_12078 is right also, though: There's so many things that can vary, 2" slack should indeed be a starting point. More or less may be appropriate, depending on the setup.
This is why I highly recommend (as already noted in this thread and others) that you wire that LED indicator to the brake switch on your towed vehicle, NOT to the ReadyBrake actuator as they instruct you. Its not hard to do, PM me if you want specifics of how I did it (or do a search or two, there's a couple different threads where folks described how they did it).
That, or if you don't want to fool with running a wire under your MH, look at getting a wireless device like the DL-200 that Readybrake sells, that gives you an indicator on the MH dash that shows when the toad brakes are engaging.
IMO you really need something on the MH dash that tells you when your toad brakes are engaging and disengaging. Then you will be able to get the cable adjusted correctly and insure that brakes will not drag and get abused. The method they provide that connects to the RB actuator isn't much help IMO, as it doesnt tell you whether your brakes are actually engaged or not.
I agree that the cable may stretch with time, so a turnbuckle is a great idea to allow you to tweak it from time to time if you find that the brakes aren't engaging enough. I just installed that on mine, and it definitely makes adjusting much, much easier.
As to the cable being too tight to remove and you having to start the jeep and depress the pedal to get some slack: I had/have same problem. Instead of having to start the car up and press on the pedal, you can (briefly) take the cable loose from the other end where it connects to the actuator arm by removing the cotter pin, sliding the bar out etc. Then you have the slack to remove it at the other end with the carabiner.
Thats what I did for a while, until I did away with the 'carabiner' clip it came with, and started using a trigger snap link like this, that doesnt require you to pull the cable at all when attaching or removing it. Only problem: As noted in my previous post, the trigger snap link broke after one trip, and I'm not certain its meant for this type of use. I'm going to try once more with it on our next trip, we'll see. I may have just got a defective one the first time.
Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis Our Rig
BradF - Tried to respond to your PM, but it says you are not accepting PMs anymore after I sent the first one. Had a bit more I wanted to tell you, so if you'll turn PMs back on, I'll finish what I was telling you..
Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
ronfisherman wrote: Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
I have to question this wiring to the toad's brake lights, as it will come on anytime the brake pedal on your coach is depressed. This is not an indication that the toad's brake pedal is being depressed.
You really need to tap into the brake pedal switch for it to be effective.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350 on a 1997 Chevy P32
Chassis_7.4 Vortec Engine_4L80E Tranny_slide_tag axle.
ronfisherman wrote: Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
I have to question this wiring to the toad's brake lights, as it will come on anytime the brake pedal on your coach is depressed. This is not an indication that the toad's brake pedal is being depressed.
You really need to tap into the brake pedal switch for it to be effective.
Well, if he tapped into just the third brake light in the middle (all cars since around 1986 are required to have a third brake light), I think that would work, and would only be energized when brake pedal in toad vehicle is being depressed.
Depending on the vehicle, I can see where in some circumstances it may be easier to tap into the third brake light than the brake switch.
ronfisherman wrote: Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
I have to question this wiring to the toad's brake lights, as it will come on anytime the brake pedal on your coach is depressed. This is not an indication that the toad's brake pedal is being depressed.
You really need to tap into the brake pedal switch for it to be effective.
Well, if he tapped into just the third brake light in the middle (all cars since around 1986 are required to have a third brake light), I think that would work, and would only be energized when brake pedal in toad vehicle is being depressed.
Depending on the vehicle, I can see where in some circumstances it may be easier to tap into the third brake light than the brake switch.
Will
Good to know and need to check that out on our Jeep.
ronfisherman wrote: Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
I have to question this wiring to the toad's brake lights, as it will come on anytime the brake pedal on your coach is depressed. This is not an indication that the toad's brake pedal is being depressed.
You really need to tap into the brake pedal switch for it to be effective.
I have separate bulbs for my toad lights. This allows toad brake lights to work as my monitor light. If diodes were used tapping into toads lights before diode would give the same results.
My toad has a trailer hitch for towing dolly and a bike rack. Plugging into the trailer wiring connector was easy way to hook up brake monitor light.
ronfisherman wrote: Got my stuff together for finishing my Ready Brute. Got a 1/4" Stainless Steel turnbuckle at Lowe's. Stopped at Fastenal for a left handed jam nut. Made a cable that hooks into toad brake lights. Will be visible in rear view monitor. Ready to install these with information from this thread. Should be much easier with all the information. Thanks All.
I have to question this wiring to the toad's brake lights, as it will come on anytime the brake pedal on your coach is depressed. This is not an indication that the toad's brake pedal is being depressed.
You really need to tap into the brake pedal switch for it to be effective.
I have separate bulbs for my toad lights. This allows toad brake lights to work as my monitor light. If diodes were used tapping into toads lights before diode would give the same results.
My toad has a trailer hitch for towing dolly and a bike rack. Plugging into the trailer wiring connector was easy way to hook up brake monitor light.
Gottcha!....and I used a COOLTECH harness to make things as simple as possible....,
...Based on some recent discussion via PMs, I was just wondering, thought I'd throw this out for ideas:
How would one wire the LED indicator on the MH dash to work off of the towed vehicle's brake pedal being engaged, if its a case where the toad battery has to be disconnected when towing?
If battery is disconnected, most approaches I've seen to this would not work. Tapping into trailer wiring, tail light, or brake switch won't work, as there's not going to be 12Volts on any of them, even when brake pedal is pushed.
I wonder if this is why ReadyBrake went away from wiring their LED indicator to work off of the toad's brake switch?
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....and I used a COOLTECH harness to make things as simple as possible....
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