Thank you all for your comments, I know how to fix this now.
As soon as I read Wolf's comments and cypher89's, I realized that must have been how the factory wired it, sans sub-panel. The 15 amp breaker marked "inverter loads" in the main box must have fed 120v "in" to the inverter and the inverter "out" romex went to the tv and a few wall plugs. The factory has no sub-panel so that must be how it was done!
Thanks wa_desert_rat but I do have a new bank of four 6v with 2/0 cables. When I picked up the MH we tested the coffee pot and it made the inverter buzz loudly! As you said, the battery drain was remarkable. The RV shop suggested I not use the coffee pot.
I'm on the road now so I can't tear into it for a couple of weeks. Thanks again.
Though that will work (and is less expensive) there is one MAJOR flaw. The single breaker feeding multiple circuits will have to be oversized enough to handle all loads at the same time. Not nearly as safe as individual breakers sized for their (obliviously smaller) loads.
It also means a wiring issue in any of those circuits means ALL inverter-supplied circuits would be out.
The extreme of this would be all 120 VAC circuits wired directly to the 30 or 50 amp main breaker(s). Yes it would work, but not be the correct way to do it.
The extreme of this would be all 120 VAC circuits wired directly to the 30 or 50 amp main breaker(s). Yes it would work, but not be the correct way to do it.
Wolf10 is absolutely correct. Either a subpanel (and choose which circuits to move to it) or just use the inverter for one or two outlets which you can wire directly. I think that for an inverter the size you had installed it would be far better to have a subpanel with individual breakers sized for the equipment you will be powering.
They *did* put a fuse in the DC lines from the batteries to the inverter, didn't they? (Just checking.)
There is only two ways to wire the inverter: the whole house or dedicated inverter outlets. I wired mine as a whole house and don't use the AC when on inverter because wiring it that way is super simple. Plus all the AC outlets can have inverter power.
Dedicated inverter outlet wiring is much more complicated and less convenient.
Gents,
In reading the OPs thread (hard to read)and, all the input from various ways of doing the job, it surely appears to be a lesson for many of us. I'm certainly no electrical genius, far from it. But, just as a suggestion, and especially reading this particular thread and responses, anyone who's thinking of having ANY RV repair/service centers do this same kind of work, should maybe ASK how the work is to be done, any and all particulars and, what will be the end result.
Now, many guys (and females) don't ask how work is to be performed if and when they take their cars in for service, most don't care, only that the work is done, and done right and, DONE ONLY ONE TIME! But, this is not a simple tuneup, or battery change or alternator change out, it was an up grade and, alterations were asked to be done. That in itself is no big deal, lots of folks ask for something to be different if and when they have service/work done. But, again, this is pretty specific stuff here. So, just suggesting, ask how it will all be done and how it will look and operate when completed.
Scott
Scott and Karla SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 White Honda CRV EX-L,4WD w/NAV Toad 2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
I have an outlet where I can plug in the shore power cord. This powers the entire RV.
I have a dedicated inverter outlet in the kitchen. That lets me have an "extra circuit" so long as the inverter is on.
I have an auxiliary shore power cord which powers two outlets in the bedroom (for winter heater use) and the converter if I wish, so when I have a low amperage connection I can still run the RV ask though I had 2500 watts to "draw on". It in effect allows me 45 amps rather than the OEM 30 amps.
I have an outlet in the cab powered by the inverter which lets me keep my laptop running happily all day long.
A future upgrade will be a pure sine wave inverter or a pair of them which could be "stacked" to give me 3600 watts (30 amps).
Gee, and I complained because Camping World did a lousy job of load balancing after putting in my 2kw inverter.
The proper way is to install a 2nd breaker box, called a sub panel, You transfer the loads you want the inverter to power (TV, Microwave and GFCI) to this panel. Leave Air Conditioners, Water heater and the like alone.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
My 2200 watt inverter has 2ea 20 amp 120 volt built in breakers. I fed the 120 volt side with 30 amp breaker and 10ga wire and ran back to the panel and picked up 2ea 20 amp circuits. Secondly I ran 0000 wire from the 12volt side of the inverter directly to the batteries.
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