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grahampconrad

Richmond, BC

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Posted: 07/05/12 11:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

i have a new 2012 Heartland 3450St Big Country, still getting the BUGS out. It has a clear coat on it and i would like to know,if i can wax it or if i can buff it or just buff by hand? I would like very much to use a buffing wheel. thanks in advance ITS 38Feet long


G Conrad
Richmond, BC
2012 Heartland Big Country 38 Ft. 5th Wheel

SH

Lynden, WA

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Posted: 07/05/12 11:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello! Congratulations on the new Big Country. We have the same rig. Since your Big Country is new, I would consider using Rejex especially on the front cap. Makes bug removal very easy and it is an excellent UV protectant. As far as using a buffer, although I always do our rig by hand two or three times a year, I see no issue with using a buffer if you have those skills. I would be careful around the graphics though.

Best Wishes!

PS Consider joining us for the WA State Heartland Rally in Twisp, WA.


2011 Heartland Big Country 3450TS
2007.5 Chev LMM Duramax/Allison
2010 FLHTC Electra Glide Classic Red Hot Sunglo
Heartland Owners Club - Washington Chapter Leaders


remoandiris

Florida

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Posted: 07/06/12 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A random orbit buffer is safer than a regular buffer.


2011 GMC 3500 Dually
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Beverley&Ken

Tottenham,Ontario

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Posted: 07/06/12 06:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on the random orbit polisher or try a wax/polisher that is more of the wipe on, wipe off variety. Protectall works great on our rig.

Beverley and Ken


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Dave & Ginny

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Posted: 07/06/12 04:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have a new trailer with paint...be very careful what type of wax you put on it for the first 6 months. The paint will be omitting fumes though the clear coat while it hardens. If a wax is applied it will stop the clear coat from breathing and the fumes will not be able to go through the clear coat causing it to get a milky look to it.

They do make a polish that body shops use just for this purpose and you can buy it on the web or at your local auto body supply store. If you're going to buy a buffer, buy a high speed buffer not an orbital. The orbital buffer won't get the scratches out, they only save on the arm power.

Dave & Ginny

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Posted: 07/06/12 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The name of the wax I was referring to is called "Fast Wax". It's very easy to put on and can be used in direct sunlight. I hope this helps

RAS43

Littleton,CO

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Posted: 07/06/12 06:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dave & Ginny wrote:


If you're going to buy a buffer, buy a high speed buffer not an orbital. The orbital buffer won't get the scratches out, they only save on the arm power.


IMO, if a person is not familiar with a high speeed buffer he/she can burn the finish or decals. That is why many of us recommend a random orbital buffer as it is easier on the finish and won't leave swirl marks. I have used an orbital buffer for many years on my vehicles without issues. I do have experience with a high speed buffer from former jobs also.

remoandiris

Florida

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Posted: 07/07/12 04:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RAS43 wrote:

Dave & Ginny wrote:


If you're going to buy a buffer, buy a high speed buffer not an orbital. The orbital buffer won't get the scratches out, they only save on the arm power.


IMO, if a person is not familiar with a high speeed buffer he/she can burn the finish or decals. That is why many of us recommend a random orbital buffer as it is easier on the finish and won't leave swirl marks. I have used an orbital buffer for many years on my vehicles without issues.


+1 to what Ras said.

All these years I've been using my Porter Cable I thought the various pads and polishes were what took care of the scratches, not the buffer itself. Hmmm.

mbrule

Massachusetts

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Posted: 07/07/12 04:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RAS43 wrote:

Dave & Ginny wrote:


If you're going to buy a buffer, buy a high speed buffer not an orbital. The orbital buffer won't get the scratches out, they only save on the arm power.


IMO, if a person is not familiar with a high speeed buffer he/she can burn the finish or decals. That is why many of us recommend a random orbital buffer as it is easier on the finish and won't leave swirl marks. I have used an orbital buffer for many years on my vehicles without issues. I do have experience with a high speed buffer from former jobs also.


+1 more!

Dave & Ginny

peoria, IL

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Posted: 07/07/12 07:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

remoandiris wrote:

RAS43 wrote:

Dave & Ginny wrote:


If you're going to buy a buffer, buy a high speed buffer not an orbital. The orbital buffer won't get the scratches out, they only save on the arm power.


IMO, if a person is not familiar with a high speeed buffer he/she can burn the finish or decals. That is why many of us recommend a random orbital buffer as it is easier on the finish and won't leave swirl marks. I have used an orbital buffer for many years on my vehicles without issues.


+1 to what Ras said.

All these years I've been using my Porter Cable I thought the various pads and polishes were what took care of the scratches, not the buffer itself. Hmmm.


If that were the case why wouldn't body shops use orbital buffers?

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