My AF 1150 appears to take Group 31 batteries, least wise from the external dimensions that appears to be the case. ??So my trek began. In search off new batteries.
No matter where I read or what I read or even what the answer was it was ALWAYS predicated with: 'how much you want to spend' and 'intended use'. In every case, I saw this as only a ruse to keep from making a real suggestion or commitment. ??For our purposes there is one key group: Automotive and this is often broken down into SUV, Marine, RV, hot/cold climate and trucks. In amongst this are deep cycle, starting and combo. Then there are lead acid, gel and AGM types.I will not go into the pros/cons; there is plenty of info available now. Suffice to say my research did lead me to several conclusions:
1) Gel, just say no!
2) 6v Vs 12v: Here I surmised that all factors being equal its a coin toss at best. However, the 6v does have one major drawback that 12v do not. Quite simply they are 6v batteries. Hook them together in a 12v requirement 2 up and if one battery goes then you are down 6v and up a creek with no paddle. You cannot make 12v out of 6v and this can really spoil a vacation in the outback.
3) Better lead (purity) makes for better batteries
4) Vibration is NOT your friend therefore you need a battery with at least a modicum of vibration resistance...mil-spec construction will not hurt!??If the intended use is in your camper (truck, tow model or just house batteries for you small motor rig) and you requirements are for 1 or 2 in you rig then my recommendation is a pair of AGM (absorbed glass mat), mil-spec construction for vibration resistance, available from a supplier with a nation-wide footprint and who stands behind their products with little or no hassle.
5) Finally cost: If you have the ducats and want to spend them then there are some high end batteries at this level whose cost FAR exceeds $300 per unit, in fact into the $500 is not a problem. I cannot say if they are 'x' times better than a battery costing less. ??Based upon my research and criteria my pick is as follows?
Sears, PM-1 Platinum Marine Battery from DieHard features 205 minutes of reserve capacity and 1150 cold cranking amps.
Military-grade construction features robust casing for increased compression and offers superior vibration resistance
Plates made of 99.99% pure virgin lead
High purity grade acid held safely in place by glass mats; non-spillable design
Absorbed Glass Mat construction provides mounting flexibility & guarantees longer service life
3-Year Free Replacement Limited Warranty
Cost was $239.99, which is $10 bucks off, and it was veterans appreciation day and being an Army guy I got another 10% off.
My rig came with Trojan's and I guess they are a good battery but they fail to meet my requirements as listed above.
But batteries aside the real culprit is battery cables. New or old batteries if your cables are not up to par neither will be the batteries.
* This post was
edited 07/11/12 02:13pm by 17oaks *
Don
17 Oaks Ranch, Texas
US Army (RET)
'11 F350 4x4, CC, LWB, DRW, Lariat
AF 1150, solar, satellite
Vietnam Combat Veteran
Closer look at OEM cabling, steel screw on connectors
I build my battery cables out of the best materials available: Cabling is 2 ga welding wire (which I much prefer over auto grade which is not as flexible) all my connectors are solid copper, silver and soldered in using solder 'bullets' especially designed for he type and size cabling-connectors I am using. I also heat shrink-wrap my connections
Closeup of cabling, copper connector and a solder bullet, ready for the torch
17oaks wrote: 6v Vs 12v: if one battery goes then you are down 6v and up a creek with no paddle.
While I understand your theory, I've never had an issue with 6v batteries in the 10+ years I've used them. They are far more durable and last years longer than a 12v RV deep cycle battery. They're meant to go in golf carts, and vibration and durability is part of their designed life.
I say take out the battery tray and you can fit in two 6v golf cart batteries. I have Interstates golf cart batts in my 1150, my former 1140 I had Trojan T125's in.
You can also add two more in your rear drivers side compartment. I have 4 total in mine.
Golf carts are by far the most durable, and the highest capacity bang for the buck.
And for what it's worth, my toyhauler has six 6v golf carts in it.
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Quote: Sears, PM-1 Platinum Marine Battery from DieHard features 205 minutes of reserve capacity and 1150 cold cranking amps.
What is the amp-hour rating, and the weight?
I guess I though marine batteries are kind of a compromise between deep cycle and starting batteries.
From The 12v side of life
Quote: Starting batteries are normally used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be damaged and will fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30 or more deep cycles.
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% repeatedly, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are solid Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what kind of battery you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries.
Many Marine batteries are actually "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%.
Quote: Sears, PM-1 Platinum Marine Battery from DieHard features 205 minutes of reserve capacity and 1150 cold cranking amps.
What is the amp-hour rating, and the weight?
I guess I though marine batteries are kind of a compromise between deep cycle and starting batteries.
From The 12v side of life
Quote: Starting batteries are normally used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be damaged and will fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30 or more deep cycles.
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% repeatedly, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are solid Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what kind of battery you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries.
Many Marine batteries are actually "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%.
They are 100 amp hr batteries.
I have been using the Sears since they dropped Optima and when with Odyssey...there are a lot of good batteries out there but I do not think there is better than Odyssey, they are just plain rugged.
My only concern with the 6v battery is if you lose one, then you no longer have 12 volts, in other words you are dead. That to me is and unacceptable POF (point of failure). Now I know boaty has 4, well that solves the problem and indeed someday I may go that route.
But the real point is in my post is battery cables. I built those for a lot of clients and a quality battery cable at the level I build will pay you dividends for years and years to come...they are NOT cheap, my cost runs close to a $100 a set for a Jeep setup.
Nice clean setup Don! I agree that the Diehard PM-1's are among the very best battery choices for a TC.
It's worth noting that the PM-1 is manufactured by EnerSys and is identical to the highly acclaimed Odyssey PC2150... but they're sold by Sears which means that a warranty replacement is always close at hand (not that you'd expect to ever need one).
The only downside (other than cost) is that these batteries require a specific charging scheme if you want to maximize capacity and battery longevity. I see you have a Xantrex temp probe on there... do you have a Prosine inverter/charger in your TC?
msiminoff wrote: Nice clean setup Don! I agree that the Diehard PM-1's are among the very best battery choices for a TC.
It's worth noting that the PM-1 is manufactured by EnerSys and is identical to the highly acclaimed Odyssey PC2150... but they're sold by Sears which means that a warranty replacement is always close at hand (not that you'd expect to ever need one).
The only downside (other than cost) is that these batteries require a specific charging scheme if you want to maximize capacity and battery longevity. I see you have a Xantrex temp probe on there... do you have a Prosine inverter/charger in your TC?
Cheers
-Mark
Yes I have the ProSine setup, not sure how big it is but will get it sorted out later...my goal is to insure my rig is stand-alone for some trips I want to take, but those are not near term. I have a Onan 2.5 setup and I am sure I will need to move to a more efficient AC unit. There are new ones out that are far more efficient than the Coleman I have and have GOT to be quieter! LOL