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 > Mounting solar panels

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Mike Schriber

San Diego, CA

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Posted: 07/14/12 03:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm going to be mounting up an aluminum framed solar panel soon. I bought a set of generic "Z" brackets for the job. These brackets have a pretty big hole (about 1/4") and I'm looking for advice on how to attach them to the roof. I'm thinking I'll need to use a bushing and washers to reduce the size or drill a pair of smaller additional holes.

I'd love to hear what others have done and what sort of fasteners you used.

Thanks!

Mike


2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 37' bunkhouse
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Golden_HVAC

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Posted: 07/14/12 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

I cut some 2" angle aluminum into 6" long brackets, and drill 3 each 3/16" holes in one side, and 1- 5/16" in the other side for a 1/4-20 bolt into the solar panels. I put in 1/4-20 Nutserts into the solar panel, and then loosely attach the bolt, figure out where the mounts need to go, then secure them one at a time. I used lots of rubber roof sealant below each mount, put in the 3 #10 screws, then put more sealant over each screw head and anyplace else you might get water into the RV.

I ran my #10 UV rated gray Romex down the refrigerator vent, with a little help from a coat hanger to help pull in the wire. You can get the aluminum angle and gray romex from Home Depot. IT is called direct burial wire.

On one set-up, my closet is right next to the refrigerator, and I was able to mount the solar controller in that wall, so when I open the closet door and it's light comes on, the controller is back lit, kinda neat. Then I replaced that controller with a 50 amp model, mounting the controller's remote display in the closet wall, and the controller in a basement compartment.

For tilt arms, I used 3/4" angle aluminum that is really thin material, 18" long will tilt my panels about 45 degrees.

Fred.

Almot

Vancouver BC

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Posted: 07/14/12 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fred, did you use knurled rivet nuts
or standard rivet nuts (same but without knurl)


or rivet nut inserts?
I can't figure out the difference between nut inserts (nutserts) and standard rivet nuts. It looks like nutserts have thinner flange on the surface (then rivet nuts) after they are installed, but I can't be sure.

Mike Schriber

San Diego, CA

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Posted: 07/14/12 05:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, just #10 screws right into the roof? No worries about finding studs or using molly bolts? I guess I'll just drill two additional holes in each bracket and ignore the existing hole. My panel is going to be mounted flat with no provision for tilting it towards the sun.

How did the solid core Romex work for you? I was planning on using stranded wire.

Thanks!

Mike

Almot

Vancouver BC

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Posted: 07/14/12 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I thought about Romex, but...
If you buy 60 ft single-conductor stranded welding cable #6 to run 30ft from panel to controller, @$1.20 per foot it will cost you $72. Solid core Romex #6 will cost $80 per 30ft roll, double conductor so 30ft roll works for 30ft run. And I am not sure that they sell 30ft roll in Home Depot. Unless you happen to have some free Romex at you workplace ...

It could be #8 or #10 of course, - depends on the panels and length to controller.

smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 07/14/12 09:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I used a stainless #10 deck screw. I think they hold better than a regular wood screw. Is that wrong?


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hypoxia

Arizona

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Posted: 07/14/12 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use Strongtie A23 2"x3" angle from Lowes or Home Depot @ $0.93@, put Proflex under them & use #8 screws. Nothings blown off yet.
A23


Jim

2003 Fleetwood Revolution 40C

renoman69

Edmonton Alberta

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Posted: 07/15/12 12:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know what your roof is made of but just a number 10 or 12 wood screw with a good blob of Dicor to seal will work. A #12 shouldn't be a problem with a 1/4 inch hole.


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renoman69

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Posted: 07/15/12 12:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you haven't already go HERE for some real good ideas.

Almot

Vancouver BC

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Posted: 07/15/12 12:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smkettner wrote:

I used a stainless #10 deck screw. I think they hold better than a regular wood screw. Is that wrong?

It is not any better than wood screw, for this application. Deck screw head provides better support in wood than regular wood screw, but in this case the head is in the metal.

With mere 3/8" thickness of the roof plywood I think what is holding the bracket down is mostly Dicor - or whatever sealant you use under the bracket, rather than screw ...

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