I have run the fridge on propane when going down the road. Currently we are on a 4 week trip.
Pulled into site this after noon, hooked to shore power and wife said no light indicating A/C. She said it was on the first time she looked at it. I have checked the voltage at pedestal and it is O.K.. 5 amp fuse was blown. Replaced it and started on gas because I have heard it cools faster. Switched to A/C about an hour later. Fuse blows again. Turned off and replaced fuse. Restarted on A/C. Outside temp is 102. Inside fridge it was 60 deg.
UPDATE: As of the last 12 hours, the unit continues on electric and temp. down to 46. Pulling out this morning and will run on propane,
* This post was
edited 07/15/12 05:53am by Charlie D. *
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Yes. A/C = 120v. Blew fuse 2 times. Can't remember if it was on propane the second time. Based upon the temp. of the fridge when it was off, I believe it blew the first fuse while on the road and on propane. When switched to propane, it will ignite..
The fridge is currently on 120v for last 2 hours. I have a 12 fan installed at the top of the vent stack that is not working. It is wired directly to the ground and 12v connection. Unable to tell if the fan is bad, whether my current problem keeps it from running or of it has other issues. Had wife turn off, to propane and then back to 120. Fuse blew again. I have disconnected the fan from a voltage source, replaced the fuse and have been back on for 1 hour.
I plan on leaving it on 120v overnight and then to propane when we leave tomorrow. I will try to verify if it blows on propane or 120v.
UPDATE: As of the last 12 hours, the unit continues on electric and temp. down to 40. Pulling out this morning and will run on propane, Ambient temp. is 75 F and large tube (boiling unit?) is 105. Outside cover left off last night. Thought it would be hotter if unit was running? Green 120v light is on.
I'm assuming the fan is 12V and the fuse is for the 12V power. You need 12V power for the fridge to operate both on AC or propane. The fan is probably temperature controlled so it only runs when outside temp is high. It appears the fan is the problem.
Without knowing what refridgerator you actually have; assumptions only here:
Mention of a cooling fan in the rear of the fridge infers a slideout installed fridge with two access/vent doors or covers - no roof top vent.
105F boiler temp? Where did you take that temp reading from? Should you have access to an infra-red temp gun, even a cheap Harbour Freight one, shooting the very top, finned, cross over tubing (behind upper vent cover) at the entrance end where the tubing from the top of the boiler goes should yield a temperature figure of higher than 130F and where fans come factory installed by trailer manufacture, a temp pot(small,dime sized thermacouple) to start and stop those fans automaticly would typicly be mounted to that first far right fin at the very top rear of the unit and be a pot lablelled 130/145F. ergo your boiler temps should be a lot higher than 105F for any cooling action to occur further up the line through BTU exchange.
Heater element will likely be anywhere from 320 to 360 watts and the ohms resistance across the leads when disconnected (from age degraded recall here) should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 8400 ohms to be healthy. If the resistance shows lower than 7500ohms; pitch the element and start with a new one.
The fuse you speak of is EITHER; one of possibly two that are part of the fridges circuit board contoller and this board is 12V powered only. The 120V ac is throughput via a 12v relay to the heater element so batteries are always required and dependant upon age of fridge and board design will be sensitive to 12v voltage degradation for anywhere down to 10 volts. Newer ones are strangely MORE sensitive to any 12v voltage drop. OR it is an inline fuse for the heater element itself and it is this one blowing, sounds like your element is pooched.
Perusing either Norcold's or Dometic's service literature site for your model number should glean the exact element part number, wattage and test ohm's.
Wiring the fan direct to AFTER fuse might also overload the fuse but typicly, pancake fans draw very low amperage, usually below 1 amp. A pair of them are routinely wired with their own 3amp fuse.
A preliminary inspection of the tubing immediately adjacent to boiler either coming out of the horizontal brine tank, entering vertical boiler and at it's very top where the tubing exits the boiler for any yellow powdery residue should also be first troubleshooting exercise.
* This post was
edited 07/15/12 08:45am by bstark *
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