I am not a mechanic, or very knowledgable on diesel mod’s etc. I bought a new TT and it is “way” heavier than my old . . . 6300 lbs dry wt vs my old of about 4000. I have a 98 dodge ram 2500 diesel 24 valve, 5.9L (stock). My TV Runs great but sluggish now on hills, while towing, etc.
I did replace the lift pump with a new (stock), opened the exhaust and intake-this helped slightly. Thinking about what next?? . . .or to just live with it. What about a chip? If I chip, do I have to upgrade transmission (it’s stock-47re). I just what a little more power and a gallon or 2 better (getting 10mpg towing). Any suggestions or comments appreciated. Don’t want a new truck payment.
The 98 Dodge was pretty powerful out of the gate, I would not want to change it so much that you will have to worry about the transmission. Towing 8,000 pounds is like nothing to that truck.
Do you have a strong desire to pull the mountain grades at 55 up them? That is kinda crazy, much rather go up them and down at a controlled rate, like 45. The few seconds that you save each hour of driving is really not worth it.
One guy did a article about how he drove to Florida at 65 MPH, using his cruise control most of the way, recording mileage all the way, and times driving. He drove back at 55, saving about $100 in fuel. He figured out it only took him an additional 2-3 hours driving time going west, so he was saving something like $15 - $18 by driving slower, it was like getting paid that much an hour for the extra 3 hours it took to drive west.
Yes it is possible to tow a 10,000 pound fifth wheel with your truck, but anything heavier will start to overload it's weight capacity, due to high pin weight. Conventional trailer is limited to something like 12,000 pounds due more to hitch configurations than the trucks ability to tow and stop the loads.
When I was camping once, I stopped in a campground that has a museum next to it, and my love for old trucks and cars, I picked up a few good books on cars. Not wanting to buy all of them, I finally decided to get just one. The book on old car carriers had both the large trucks I want to see and cars they delivered on the back!
Some of the old trucks from the 30's had a large inline 6, say 74 HP for a 285 cubic inch monster motor, running high compression (for the time) of 6.6:1 to get the most of the engine. They could only carry 4 cars on the back. One has a sign on the back of the truck that proclaimed "Electric brakes on the trailer, do not follow to close, stops quickly" So I guess in the 20's they did not put brakes on the trailers? ?
Your 200+ HP truck will do great, just the way it was made.
If anything, I would put in a digital transmission gauge, and perhaps if it is running more than 200F, install a stacked plate transmission cooler.
You don't mention the mileage on the Dodge or the maintenance history... when was the last time you had the transmission and differential serviced? Maybe and adjustments & fluid changes would improve your performance.
I agree you should have plenty of power to pull the camper with your truck. I expect most of what you're noticing is due to the additional 2k pounds and profile differences in your previous & current campers.
My 2006 Dodge has about 113k on the odometer... I just had the transmission serviced and bands tightened. It does seem to pull stronger.
My truck is stock... I'd like to add a few gauges to monitor EGT & Transmission temps, but I haven't broken down to pay for them yet. I tend to take it easy on my truck starting from a stop and going up inclines... particularly because I don't have the gauges to know if it's running too hot. I figure better to be safe than sorry.
Our camper is about 8k fully loaded for a week long trip. Last time I checked, the truck & camper together tipped the scales at 16k. I can definitely tell it's back there and adjust my driving habits accordingly.
Sounds like you are just "feeling" a trailer behind your truck for a change. When we went from the 3000# popup to a 5000# TT last year, it was a noticeable difference with our van, especially on the hills! My DW is still asking why we slow down and why the van is bouncing around more than it use to. She also didn't understand at first why I didn't go through drive-thrus any more!!
Just relax and enjoy the slower pace. Be wary of cruise control and towing in OD if you has been!
Todd
Todd
1993 Ford E-350 pushed by a 1988 Wilderness 24' TT
Your trailer is within the ratings for MOST modern half ton trucks so I find it hard to believe your diesel needs mods to handle it. I suspect what you need is some driving experience with it so you're comfortable with how it tows the load. The 98s were not the most powerful thing on the road but should easily handle that weight.
Good luck / Skip
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR - 2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles) 2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
I have the same truck a 98.5 Cummins powered Ram and pull a 10.000 Lb fiver. Bought new and have been all over the US, Canada and Alaska with this combo. DO not chip your truck's auto trans, your truck might not like it. I have the 3.55 rear end, and usually get between 12 to 14 MPG, under tow, but average around 13 when towing. By it self, on the open road. 20 to 21 Mpg.
When towing, speed between 55 and 65 Mph, depending upon roads and traffic.
Your load is not 'heavy' for that truck. If you are wanting to maintain speed on any and all inclines a cheap and dependable investment would be an Edge-EZ. My dad has one on his '01, had it since about 60k and has 240k on the truck now. The added fuel increased boost pressures (he peaks ~30psi), and EGTs still stay in the safe zones unless you lug it, which you will have a hard time doing with an auto trans. An EGT gauge is a good investment though, along with a trans temp gauge. Fuel mileage remained unchanged.
My father in law has a 98.5 Cummins as well and I will admit it doesn't run as hard as my dad's '01 when we did a stock-stock comparison. FIL does need to drop to 3rd (auto) on the larger hills with his 26' TT and he has 3.55 gears and was running 35" tires for awhile. I know, kind of poor comparison.
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer, ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges in cubby hole, GDP 20/2 filters on frame rail, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
Honda EU3000I Genny
I would go with a chip, and as long as you don't dog the truck I would not worry about the 47re trans.
I had a 98 12 vale that I put the Banks Power Pack system on, this system added about 100+hp and about the same in torque, and I never had any trouble with the 47re trans. even with a 100k put on the truck after instalation of the system.
skipnchar wrote: Your trailer is within the ratings for MOST modern half ton trucks so I find it hard to believe your diesel needs mods to handle it. I suspect what you need is some driving experience with it so you're comfortable with how it tows the load. The 98s were not the most powerful thing on the road but should easily handle that weight.
Good luck / Skip
X2. Also may want to get the motor checked out by a qualified mechanic if it is struggling with that
my new to me 26' TT is 7-8K according to the stickers on it, my '99 dodge cummins tows it down the freeway at 75 like its not even there, I have not gone up any big hills (passes) yet, and I full expect to be slower pulling them, but thats how it is, it will not feel like your not towing something, when your towing something.
I have towed my parents 30'+ 5th wheel that weighs over 12,000lbs dry, and I hated it, I could still do 70 on the hwy, but didnt like working my truck that much, I too have a stock trans.
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