If you buy the "price line" parts from an auto parts store the quality will be much lower than dealer parts. If you purchase the highest quality parts they sell they will be very comparable to dealer parts.
'03 GMC 2500HD
'12 Jayco 25BHS
Rugrat: Peyton
Labs: Catfish, Katy, CJ
GO DAWGS!!!
Skinny Man wrote: If you buy the "price line" parts from an auto parts store the quality will be much lower than dealer parts. If you purchase the highest quality parts they sell they will be very comparable to dealer parts.
Um, the best parts that can be had are far above OEM dealer grade.
I have installed numerous rotors and pads from Autozone, etc. and I personally found them to be superior to the original parts. I have not been able to tell a difference and surely not thinner material. I do all my own work so I know it is done properly and don't think for one minute that a minimum wage tech will be a real professional. All rotors rust where the pads are not running and sounds to me they are just trying to fleece your pocket book.
Ron & Libby Gordon
07 Ford F350 Dually Tow Boss Diesel
07 Mobile Suites 38RL3 #3698
02 Winnebago Adventurer 35U V10 (Former RV)
Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow
The main outsourced, source is China and India, or that I know for now
Even the OEMs outsource to them both
They are also made all over the world and outsourced at any given moment
to any place in the world...even made in the USA
There is more to than just the casting design, production process,
the alloy, and QC
The basic design and not just the thickness of the rotor disc, but
the thickness of the two disc's if vented. Then the centrifugal
fan vans...from how many there are, their curvature, the thickness
of those vanes and the inner dia along with the air flow within the
hub or hat section.
Are there heat dams on the OEM rotors ? Does the after market also
have them and are they properly designed?
Some have been found to have voids 'inside' the casting that only
X-Ray or destructive testing will reveal
Some are NOT balanced either, but there are so many here that don't
believe in balancing their trailer wheel/tires that am wondering
if those folks would ignore balancing brake rotors...
All of the counter folks I've asked these questions to have no clue
and knew that...wanting to be surprised some day
Then by reputation or recommendation...that depends on the person
providing that info...as I've gotten some pretty good recommendations
for XYZ after market and have been both burned and/or inspection on
the parts counter...noticed differences and concerns that I passed on them
So far, I've had good products from NAPA and note that they also carry
many levels of product. I always ask for their best and AAA club card
begets a discount
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
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