98.5-02 Cummins had failing lift pumps (mounted on driver's side of engine block) that if not noticed almost immediately, it would kill the VP44 injection pump. Simple solution is an LP pressure gauge or pressure switch with a warning light. In the later years you could get the HO model with the 6spd manual.
03-04 Cummins had 3 different power ratings (california, SO model, HO with 6spd). no major issues to be aware of. good fuel economy.
04.5-06 Cummins. The 04.5 & 05 models have a plastic intercooler. Not a big deal but some split and that means a new IC. All motors are 325/610 rated regardless of transmission. Not quite as good fuel economy as 03-04 models. Added tow/haul mode on the auto trans but no ability to lockout OD except on 06 models you can do both. There are simple ways to add the OD lockout on them though. 06 model is first year of TIPM, which is a good and bad thing. Everything is controlled by the TIPM but it is fails your out some $$$.
'07 and up gets you DPF and reduced fuel economy, but gain an exhaust brake. Computer reflashes helped with the plugging of the particulate filter and sticking turbo vanes.
All common rail cummins (03+), the mass majority agree that the stock fuel filtration is not enough and are adding 2mic filters. The same would go with the DMax and PSDs.
I'm not as much on the ball with the 6.4 & 6.7 PSDs. I followed the DMaxs up to the LBZ motor (06 & OBS 07). First choice would be an LBZ, then LLY2, then back step to the LB7.
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer, ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges in cubby hole, GDP 20/2 filters on frame rail, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
Honda EU3000I Genny
Well, jar...seeing as how you live in possibly the worst possible place for a vehicle to survive, i'm sure you have all those problems with all your trucks, no matter the manufacturer. I knew you'd have some a**hole idiotic comments to make. My truck has no rattles, squeaks, no body rot or peeling paint(not the trucks fault you live in the salt, idiot). Brakes work just fine and are still original. If you are a ford man, go buy a ford and have all those 6.0 headaches. For the rest of us, choose GM or dodge and have a good, solid truck. Not all of us live in the cold, rusty salt belt like you do. You guys all have to buy a new truck every 5 years due to body rot. Our trucks out here last as long as we want them to.
glamisorbust wrote: Well, jar...seeing as how you live in possibly the worst possible place for a vehicle to survive, i'm sure you have all those problems with all your trucks, no matter the manufacturer. I knew you'd have some a**hole idiotic comments to make. My truck has no rattles, squeaks, no body rot or peeling paint(not the trucks fault you live in the salt, idiot). Brakes work just fine and are still original. If you are a ford man, go buy a ford and have all those 6.0 headaches. For the rest of us, choose GM or dodge and have a good, solid truck. Not all of us live in the cold, rusty salt belt like you do. You guys all have to buy a new truck every 5 years due to body rot. Our trucks out here last as long as we want them to.
X2^
And I live in The Midwest I don't have no rust or all that .I know the older Chevys all that.I see some newer Dodges rusting bad lately
2007 chevy 3500 ltz CC LB Duramax
2010 Sandpiper 345 RET
2011 Harley Ultra limited
20 ft Searay 190 Seville
denverhank wrote: Unfortunately it is that time. My truck is in the shop for loss of power and they haven't figured it out yet. Tends to worry me, one minute it was fine, the next it couldn't get out of its own way. So I'm thinking it is time to get rid of it. Especially since it really has no payload, truck with me, hitch and full fuel tank weighs in at 8040 lbs. GVWR is 8800 lbs. Add the DW, all her stuff and the parrot, well that'll add another 150-160 lbs to the empty weight. Pin weight on the FW is 1900 lbs (scale weight).
I know that the 03-04 6.0's are to be avoided (wish I knew that before I bought one). What year(s) Duramax and CTD have had reliability issues and should be avoided like the 03 PSD? I'm not sure I want another 6.0 but if the price was right, well, ya never know.
Before you decide to get rid of it, consider that it is the devil you know.
Start a new thread on diagnostics of it, and I can probably walk you through the process to restore it to its normal function as long as you have never had a tuner, mods, deletes, etc. on it, and you did all your maintenance as per the book.
There are no specific bad years as much as there are bad trucks out there.
The condition and maintenance of the specific vehicle in question generally overpowers the general rules.
Do not buy any vehicle that you cannot see the entire maintenance history, factory filters, proper fluids done on schedule and on time.
Don't touch a vehicle that been near biodiesel.
Avoid any make, any year any model that is not bone stock, factory with only factory approved upgrades, and never had a tuner, mods, deletes, etc. on it.
Avoid any that had major repairs and always choose low mileage.
Specifically, avoid EPA 2008 models in general because that is the time they changed over, and EPA 2010 models unless you are buying new 2012 or 2013 vehicles.
matt7591 wrote: Older Cummins (I think 12v?) had a "killer dowel pin" which could be fixed. If fixed, solid.
Curious what happens w the 6.0. Could the fixes that are known help now? Hope to see a follow up. Good luck!
If you have a 6.0 you have a good engine but need some mods to make it bulletproof:
1- IF you can delete the EGR cooler. This is what plugs up and blows the engine.
2- Replace the Ford Gold coolant with CAT ELC and make sure you flush it good. the Ford coolant plugs up the EGR cooler and oil cooler.
3- Install a coolant filter to collect sand and gunk so your oil cooler doesn't get plugged up.
4- Get a scanGauge II to monitor your oil, water, trans temps and volts.
5- ALWAYS use Motorcraft filters because they have a patent and will filter ALL your oil and fuel.
6- If you want to increase millage put in a turbo back 5" exhaust system and a Banks intercooler. Both will help the motor and MPG.
7- If you want more power then go with the SuperChips tuner and the heavy tow. It will give you 48 more HP and 150 more FT pounds of torque without harming your engine.
Every make has it's problems and fixes but if you have the 6.0 the above can make it a reliable truck. I have 212k on mine.
In my life I've spent my money on women, booze, Harleys, guitars and traveling, the rest I just wasted...
2007 Ford F-350 diesel/dually & Sunnybrook Titan KSRV 39-1 Toy hauler 5th wheel hauling my custom Harley
. . .DON"T shoot me, but, I have the 2007 "Classic" GMC with the 6.6 & Allison; bought it SPECIFICALLY because it is the last model year before they started putting smog stuff on diesels (which increases maintenance & reduces milage); So far I have had to put on a front wheel bearing assembly (83,000 so far) & a transmission line that was seeping (Did not like the drip - I was a independant shop owener for 30+ years). I do use a SuperChip programmer only when I tow (no issues with it) & added a Banks SpeedBrake (which I like but was a PITA because of "issues" which Banks resolved). Other than that vehicle is STOCK!!!! If you buy used & it has been modified & Jacked-Up you will most likely be purchasing "issues". How do I like the GMC? Could NOT BE HAPPIER!!!! . . .AND. . .Good fuel milage!!!!. ... AND. . POWER out the wazoo. . .
glamisorbust wrote: Well, jar...seeing as how you live in possibly the worst possible place for a vehicle to survive, i'm sure you have all those problems with all your trucks, no matter the manufacturer.
Wow...starting with a false premise (and typing on the level of a second grader) right away!
Quote: I knew you'd have some a**hole idiotic comments to make. My truck has no rattles, squeaks, no body rot or peeling paint(not the trucks fault you live in the salt, idiot).
The OP lives in the rust belt. Your experiences in Arizona are a whole lot less relevant than mine in New England. (And the paint is killed by sun more than salt.) They usually rattle right off the showroom floor...it's been a GM hallmark for decades.
Quote: Brakes work just fine and are still original.
Yep...in Arizona. In the rust belt (where the OP lives), the front rotors (along with the rocker panels) tend to literally rot away.
Quote: If you are a ford man, go buy a ford and have all those 6.0 headaches.
Wow, talk about ramming both feet down your throat...there is nobody here more critical than I about the 6.doh! Ford should have been required to but back and destroy all of them. Good truck, but appallingly-bad engine.
Quote: For the rest of us, choose GM or dodge and have a good, solid truck. Not all of us live in the cold, rusty salt belt like you do. You guys all have to buy a new truck every 5 years due to body rot. Our trucks out here last as long as we want them to.
Well, no, that's not actually true...when I sold my last truck (F-350), it was 16 years old and had 366,000 miles. My current truck (F-350, 12V Cummins conversion) is 33 years old and still running fine.
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with 3 nutty cats
My beloved St. Bernard, Marm, lost him 1/2/12
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion
For those that have suggested I keep my truck, well, that is an option certainly but there are 3 strikes against it. It died on the side of the road and I had to put in new injectors. The tech also upped the fuel pressure at that time. Took about 18 months before I felt like I could trust it not to breakdown, especially while towing. That was in '07. Fast forward to today and weighed everything at the scales so I'm OK on axle weights but way over on GVWR (strike 2). And then this no power issue. They cleaned out the turbo, verified it is working but still no power. I'm just hoping it isn't going to be a "throw parts at it till it's fixed" issue. I'm not sure about the dealer's tech. Had a great one in CO but now I'm in IA and pickings are a little slim.
So I'm leaning towards a 3500, or a 2500 that has capacity for the payload.
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 4x4 6L PSD
2012 Jayco 31.5FBHS
DW and an African Grey chatterbox
retired IT tech
denverhank wrote: For those that have suggested I keep my truck, well, that is an option certainly but there are 3 strikes against it. It died on the side of the road and I had to put in new injectors. The tech also upped the fuel pressure at that time. Took about 18 months before I felt like I could trust it not to breakdown, especially while towing. That was in '07. Fast forward to today and weighed everything at the scales so I'm OK on axle weights but way over on GVWR (strike 2). And then this no power issue. They cleaned out the turbo, verified it is working but still no power. I'm just hoping it isn't going to be a "throw parts at it till it's fixed" issue. I'm not sure about the dealer's tech. Had a great one in CO but now I'm in IA and pickings are a little slim.
So I'm leaning towards a 3500, or a 2500 that has capacity for the payload.
I would need a lot more data to see what is the cause of the no power condition.
Describe it as accurately as you can.. how it happens... etc.
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