txbill
Texas
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Joined: 07/13/2012
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I'm going through our 2003 Kiwi that we just bought and resealing it. With the exception of a few problem areas it has not been recaulked in its life. I'm removing the original caulk and recaulking with ProFlex sealant. I'm sure it is overkill, but since the smallest leak can cause devastating damage to the ultra light trailers (so I've read) I'm considering putting a second layer of caulk. My fear is that I get a bubble somewhere or have a slight gap. I'm using soapy water on my finger to shape the joints, but it still grabs from time to time and it makes me worry I've pulled it to thin in those spots. Are there any drawback to this other than the cost and time associated with the second layer?
How often should I completely remove the old caulk vs. touching up or sealing over?
Or would I better served to use the eternabond tape on the corners of the trailer? I'm not too concerned about aesthetics. I've read that some people say you can't use the tape here or shouldn't. What is the rationale behind this?
Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions,
Bill
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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Frequent checking is your best bet… a second layer of sealant over a good one is still just a good one… what if there is a bubble in the second layer, would you add a third…
It sounds like you are doing a good job and being careful to do it right…
Clearly just because a little of something is good doesn’t mean a lot of it is any better…
Good luck with your project and camper…
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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txbill
Texas
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Thanks JJBirish,
Just thought I would check to see if anybody else did this. I was assuming the swiss cheese model w/ my two coats...that the more layers of protection you have the lower the chances of lining up the holes to have something get through...what are the chances I'll have two bubbles in the same spot.
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pbohart
Portland, Oregon
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Joined: 10/24/2005
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Go to your nearest RV service shop and have a SealTech Leak Detection test done *after* you are done resealing.
That test (which costs ~$100) will detect any water leaks on the sides or corners of your trailer.
Seal it up good, then run the test to make sure you have everything water tight.
http://www.rvleaks.com/how.htm
2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Diesel
2012 Jayco Eagle Super-Light 314BDS
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bobsrvnet
Alberta, Canada
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What tool would you recommend for removing the old sealant that might be cracking in corners etc? I don't want to damage anything prior to applying new sealant.
Any tips would be appreciated.
2002 Peak Manufactured - Frontier Plainsman T27FR
2007 Toyota Tundra TRD SR5 - 5.7L iForce
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JIMNLIN
out here
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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IMO don't remove good sealent.
If its not leaking simply don't remove good sealent. The sealent is just the second line of defence against water intrusion anyway. First line is the butyl tape under the fixture that squeezes out when the screaws are pulled up tight. Proseal will work fine.
My '97 5er has never leaked as I check the roof fixtures/lap joints/membrane twice a year.
Never a issue with the sealent cracking or lifting till '05 when I found a couple of hairline cracks in a couple of foot long spots. I simply added a bit of self leveling Dicor over the cracks. What ever you add up there think in terms of not making a dam for water to be trapped.
In '10 the sealent came loose in a 10" long spot around the worthless skylite. I pulled what would come loose free and added Dicor to that spot. In the 10 years I've owned the trailer my actual work time spent resealing those small areas has been probably 15 min max.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 gvwr two slides
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bobsrvnet
Alberta, Canada
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Thanks for the prompt reply. I don't have any leaks that i'm aware of. Just simply noticing a few locations around windows and front of the unit along the vertical seams where a decent size crack is forming. So unless the existing sealant is coming off easily I should just leave it in place and add new sealant overtop filling the crack, correct?
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