Finally found a web site that shows how to check a coil for resistance. To check the primary winding place Neg on meter to kill connection and Pos to laminations should read 5-1000ohms. Neg to laminations and pos to kill connection should read 30,000 ohms min. To check secondary winding check ohms across ignition wires and you should read 22,000-42,000 ohms. After this test I believe that my new coil is bad also. I found a small engine repair shop that has a coil for the Kohler generator unfortunately they will not work on motor home generators. After being at this for 7 days I can see why. This new coil is twice the price that I paid at Amazon. I sure hope it works.
Put the second new coil in today and while checking the spark with the wire off I saw a bright blue spark and the generator started right up. I was very happy. I cleaned and reset main and idle jets It starts right up and runs well.
Gale, changing the plugs are easy. The back one is the hardest to get to. The sheet metal shrouding was the hardest part to get off to get to the coil and fly wheel area. What I learned from this whole experience is that if there is no spark and you disconnect the kill switch to the coil and there is still no spark the coil is bad. After studying the wiring diagrams it finally dawned on me the the kill wire disconnects the control board the low pressure switch etc. The other thing that I learned was it is easier to use a non magnetic material like a business card to set the gap between the coil and magnet on the fly wheel than a feeler Gage. Now that I did this once it me about 3 hrs to reinstall the new coil and put all the sheet metal back in place.