Do not use the ford gold coolant, many have suspected that it is leading to the clogging that results in the egr/oil cooler failures. If YOU can do it, get one of the flush kits from an auto store, tap into the heater line and FLUSH! Do this for about 15 minutes and then DRAIN the tap water. You can get some restore from a cummins dealer, a little cheaper than the vc 9 but same stuff. Run with distilled water and then FLUSH with the hose tap. If you can drain the block with the block drains but I could not get mine undone, the tech I used had to buy a special tool to get them out so they are not easy. After a good long tap water flush, go ahead and flush again with distilled WATER A MINIMUM OF 2 TIMES. I would also recommend you R&R the Tstat and housing they are fairly cheap from ford. Also replace the rad coolant cap ($5) and fill with Catapillar ELC coolant same price as the ford gold and a better choice.
I have had my truck bullet proofed and it runs great, temp spread about 10 deg at 80 mph! If you can, add a coolant filter but with the miles you have may be a moot point, but you can put one on for comfort/peace of mind around $125. Many claim casting sand in the engine, but I didnt find hardly anything when I changed mine out.
with the hose flush I disconnected the lower rad hose also had the tstat out. I also drained with the lower hose prior to the distilled water flush.
Just some ideas for you consider. BTW the coolant by pass/filter kit will plug into the heater line you may have cut for the flush. I went to a hose shop and got a Brass T and am able to remove the to bypass line and screw in a hose tap for flushing.
Hank85713 wrote: Do not use the ford gold coolant, many have suspected that it is leading to the clogging that results in the egr/oil cooler failures. If YOU can do it, get one of the flush kits from an auto store, tap into the heater line and FLUSH! Do this for about 15 minutes and then DRAIN the tap water. You can get some restore from a cummins dealer, a little cheaper than the vc 9 but same stuff. Run with distilled water and then FLUSH with the hose tap. If you can drain the block with the block drains but I could not get mine undone, the tech I used had to buy a special tool to get them out so they are not easy. After a good long tap water flush, go ahead and flush again with distilled WATER A MINIMUM OF 2 TIMES. I would also recommend you R&R the Tstat and housing they are fairly cheap from ford. Also replace the rad coolant cap ($5) and fill with Catapillar ELC coolant same price as the ford gold and a better choice.
I have had my truck bullet proofed and it runs great, temp spread about 10 deg at 80 mph! If you can, add a coolant filter but with the miles you have may be a moot point, but you can put one on for comfort/peace of mind around $125. Many claim casting sand in the engine, but I didnt find hardly anything when I changed mine out.
with the hose flush I disconnected the lower rad hose also had the tstat out. I also drained with the lower hose prior to the distilled water flush.
Just some ideas for you consider. BTW the coolant by pass/filter kit will plug into the heater line you may have cut for the flush. I went to a hose shop and got a Brass T and am able to remove the to bypass line and screw in a hose tap for flushing.
Do hope its not real serious for ya.
This stuff sounds good but I don't think I am that much of a do-it-yourselfer when it comes to diesel engines. I quit doing mechanic work when I couldn't find the spark plugs on my wife's car.
I don't know how to R&R and don't have a clue about the Tstat housing.
Getting myself into this extended warranty sounds like it might prevent me from getting the work done right.
* This post was
edited 07/28/12 07:50pm by mikestock *
2005 F250 Crew Cab LWB Power Stroke, 2007 Montana 3500RL Fifth Wheel,Honda EU3000IS, Twin Honda EU2000i's, S&W security system
RoyF when you replaced thermostat was it under warrenty? I had one go bad in my 08 and dealer replaced both and radiator. Was a factory bulliten to do due cracks in radiator after replacing thermostats.No charge to me ford payed it all including rent car. Mike
My truck acted the same way when we went on vacation last year. NewW hit the issue with my truck dead on. It took 3 different Ford dealers to finally get to the plugged up oil cooler as the truck ran like a champ without trailer on it. With the trailer it ran okay until midday and then we got the wrench and it went into limp mode. The annoying thing was the wrench never set a code. After you shut the truck off and let it set and would start right up again and be okay until it got hot again. My truck is covered with a bumper to bumper ESP, but Ford has a whole protocol that they have to go through when it does not set a trouble code.
2005 F350 PSD DRW SuperCab Lariat
2008 Carriage Cameo F35SB
Jeff "Loving DH"
Smokey & Purrshing, Our Ragdolls
Gordie, "The goof ball" English Springer Spaniel
take it to the dealer and let them diagnose it.there are more than one and someone else might actually get you in but those trucks take a lot of work to keep going so they are busy sometimes.
our local ford store round here has 2 master diesel guys and they are busy.
2000 K3500 CCLB DRW 6.5 TURBO
2009 Cougar 320 SRX
2007 atlas 24 auto hauler
1987 GMC origional low miles
skipnchar wrote: There are hundreds of different things that can set a code that will turn on the "check engine" wrench. Nothing would be possible other than wild guesses without reading the code or having other symptoms.
+5 they cannot see it for 10 days? No problem, take it to any auto parts store and have them pull a code. Post up what code it is.
You could also disconnect both batteries then turn on your lights for 3 min. Turn your lights off, reconnect the bat's and this will clear any codes and set your tables for the PCM and TCM to relearn.
I'll help you with the code if you post it up.
2006 Ford F250 King Ranch PSD
ARP Headstuds
ERG Delete
Diesel Site Coolant Filter System
Gearhead Performance Tuned, via XCALII, Edge Insight CTS
MBRP 4" Turbo Back, cat delete
MagHytech Rear Dif Cover
2011 Ford Expedition, HD Tow
2011 Cruiser CF33LF, KC5PFG
If the egr or oil cooler plugs the pcm will defuel (limp mode) when oil temps reach 250*. And this is a common problem with the 6.0's. Get yourself an Edge CTS monitor to watch the vitals. For now find someone in your area with AE and data log it while towing and see what your delta is. This is a SERIOUS problem and can destroy your eng. Better check it soon.
My friends did this on a 6% pull with a 39' WW. Was a long climb up that 9 mile stretch @ 15 mph. His oil temps were around 295*. About $11K later it's good. One reason I went with a 7.3.
Parts store readers will not read the Powerstroke codes you need. Find someone with Auto Enginuity like I said before.
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" turbo back exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
08 Arctic Cat Prowler 700XTX
Hank85713 wrote: Do not use the ford gold coolant, many have suspected that it is leading to the clogging that results in the egr/oil cooler failures. If YOU can do it, get one of the flush kits from an auto store, tap into the heater line and FLUSH! Do this for about 15 minutes and then DRAIN the tap water. You can get some restore from a cummins dealer, a little cheaper than the vc 9 but same stuff. Run with distilled water and then FLUSH with the hose tap. If you can drain the block with the block drains but I could not get mine undone, the tech I used had to buy a special tool to get them out so they are not easy. After a good long tap water flush, go ahead and flush again with distilled WATER A MINIMUM OF 2 TIMES. I would also recommend you R&R the Tstat and housing they are fairly cheap from ford. Also replace the rad coolant cap ($5) and fill with Catapillar ELC coolant same price as the ford gold and a better choice.
I have had my truck bullet proofed and it runs great, temp spread about 10 deg at 80 mph! If you can, add a coolant filter but with the miles you have may be a moot point, but you can put one on for comfort/peace of mind around $125. Many claim casting sand in the engine, but I didnt find hardly anything when I changed mine out.
with the hose flush I disconnected the lower rad hose also had the tstat out. I also drained with the lower hose prior to the distilled water flush.
Just some ideas for you consider. BTW the coolant by pass/filter kit will plug into the heater line you may have cut for the flush. I went to a hose shop and got a Brass T and am able to remove the to bypass line and screw in a hose tap for flushing.
Do hope its not real serious for ya.
Do this procedure, and your cooling system is toast in due course.
This method almost guarantee future cooling system failure.
It is specifically not recommended by Ford, and it will leave a large amount of the old coolant in it to be mixed with the new.
Furthermore, tap water (depending on where you are) are loaded with calcium and other deposits that will coat the entire system.
Mixing 2 incompatible coolant chemistries plus lots of tap water deposits is the sure path to doom.
Ford specifies a 5 hour procedure for flushing the engine with their VC-9 cleaner.
That is why I do not recommend people buying 6.0s that have been done by the self service crowd --- they don't know what they are doing.
skipnchar wrote: There are hundreds of different things that can set a code that will turn on the "check engine" wrench. Nothing would be possible other than wild guesses without reading the code or having other symptoms.
+5 they cannot see it for 10 days? No problem, take it to any auto parts store and have them pull a code. Post up what code it is.
You could also disconnect both batteries then turn on your lights for 3 min. Turn your lights off, reconnect the bat's and this will clear any codes and set your tables for the PCM and TCM to relearn.
I'll help you with the code if you post it up.
This particular fault do not cause a code. UNLESS it becomes a ECT overheat --- that sets a code. EOT overheat will also set a code.
Reason is because it is not an OEM, but done via a software update and the update did not (for whatever reason) key to a new (there are no existing code for the condition called EOT/ECT differential exceeded).
Sorry, no specific code.
The symptoms as described is exactly the correct one for oil and EGR cooler failure.
hawkhill wrote: My truck acted the same way when we went on vacation last year. NewW hit the issue with my truck dead on. It took 3 different Ford dealers to finally get to the plugged up oil cooler as the truck ran like a champ without trailer on it. With the trailer it ran okay until midday and then we got the wrench and it went into limp mode. The annoying thing was the wrench never set a code. After you shut the truck off and let it set and would start right up again and be okay until it got hot again. My truck is covered with a bumper to bumper ESP, but Ford has a whole protocol that they have to go through when it does not set a trouble code.
Have them reference the TSB on the new flash that lights the wrench and do not set a code.
Looks like you ran into another Ford diesel tech that don't know what they are doing.
* This post was
edited 07/29/12 08:42am by NewsW *
64thunderbolt wrote: If the egr or oil cooler plugs the pcm will defuel (limp mode) when oil temps reach 250*. And this is a common problem with the 6.0's. Get yourself an Edge CTS monitor to watch the vitals. For now find someone in your area with AE and data log it while towing and see what your delta is. This is a SERIOUS problem and can destroy your eng. Better check it soon.
My friends did this on a 6% pull with a 39' WW. Was a long climb up that 9 mile stretch @ 15 mph. His oil temps were around 295*. About $11K later it's good. One reason I went with a 7.3.
Parts store readers will not read the Powerstroke codes you need. Find someone with Auto Enginuity like I said before.
There are other factors that will defuel the engine. And yes, some parts houses can read Ford Codes. Heck my local Midas can read codes.
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