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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Maintenance Issues & Tips

 > Water heater plug stripped

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Skline01

Norton Shores, Mi

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Posted: 07/31/12 11:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was replacing the brass plug in my Atwood 6 gal water heater. It seemed a little tighter then normal BUT it looked straight and I thought the Plumber tape was making it nice and snug. When I put water pressure in the system it leaked through the plug. I pulled the plug out and it now appears that the grooves in the heater are stripped. I have no idea if this is repairable and how extensive it would be. Any insight or feedback would be appreciated
Thanks


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Posted: 07/31/12 11:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you could go to hardware store and get an expandable rubber plug with the wing nut on it. Bring old metal plug so you can match the size. Or you could buy or borrow a large tap that is the size of the plug and try to recut the threads, but it might not be successful

skipnchar

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Posted: 07/31/12 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It COULD be that putting a brass plug in a water tank that has no anode rod has caused galvanic corrosion that damaged your threads. I'd get rid of the brass, clean out the threads and re-install the nylon plug that it's supposed to have. If you have one of the RARE models that HAS an anode rod, then ignore this post.


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Gary.

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Posted: 07/31/12 11:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did your motor home come with that plug? I am under the impression that Atwood hot water heaters have a plastic plug. Maybe if you buy a plastic replacement and wrap the teflon tape around it it might work. Good Luck.

Gary.

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Posted: 07/31/12 11:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Double post.

wolfe10

Texas

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Posted: 07/31/12 11:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Positively, the Atwood came with an Atwood nylon drain plug.

I would take the brass plug to a hardware store and buy a tap to clean up the tank threads. Good chance it will work if you do it carefully-- favoring the original grooves.

Then 2.5 wraps of Teflon tape on the new Atwood nylon drain plug.

Brett


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deereone

NE

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Posted: 07/31/12 12:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wolfe10 wrote:

Positively, the Atwood came with an Atwood nylon drain plug.

I would take the brass plug to a hardware store and buy a tap to clean up the tank threads. Good chance it will work if you do it carefully-- favoring the original grooves.

Then 2.5 wraps of Teflon tape on the new Atwood nylon drain plug.

Brett


And if the above doesn't work out you can put a Helicoil insert in it.

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Posted: 07/31/12 12:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If a tap will clean it up good to go. Probably not from your description.
There appeared to be enough material in out 10 gal Atwood for a slightly larger size.
If it stripped get a plumber or machinist to clean up and retap for next largest size. Of course you can do it yourself depending the risk you are willing to take and general skill level.
Use Nylon plugs and teflon tape.
Don't accept, as gospel, what I said. Perhaps there is someone here that has tackled it?
Call Atwood.

ISM500

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Posted: 07/31/12 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another option is to use one of the two part metal repair kits. All local auto parts store carry,for example, Permatix Cold Weld or JB Weld. Mix the two parts and apply sparingly to the damaged threads. Screw in the nylon plug wrapped with teflon tape to prevent bonding.

If that does not work, coat the threads on the brass plug and screw into the tank. THAT will not leak and if you need to remove, apply heat with a propane torch and the epoxy will yield.

traveylin

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Posted: 07/31/12 01:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you buy a substitute make sure the threads are identical. With pipe threads machine threads coarse machine threads metric NPS etc a 3/4 plug can mean a variety of shapes. Switching from brass/galvanized to plastic has the most potential for mismatch

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