I retested the meter using one of my brick and stick house's outlets and the meter read about 112V AC, so I know I have the meter setup OK. I then retested the gen breakers with one lead on each of the breaker's 2 connections. Still 0 output. Was that the right way to hook-up? 0 volts if so.
IF that is right, I'm supposed to check the rotor, Stator and Brushes per another flowchart. If they check OK, the flowchart states to replace the "AVR". Does anybody know what that is? I thought it was the voltage regulator, but that is abreviated "VR1" everywhere in the manual.
Mark, Jean, Paul & Lizzy (the mutt)
1997 Fleetwood Southwind Storm 34LS >
Thirsty, noisy & clunky. She ain't pretty, but she sure is fun! "Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines." Enzo Ferrari
AVR would be the Voltage Regulator. AVR stands for Automatic Voltage Regulator. VR1 is just a component of the AVR and would be what you are testing. I am like you, I refuse to let some dumb piece of equipment beat me with out putting up a good fight to get it working. Good Luck and let us know what finally gets it going properly.
U. S. Navy (RETIRED) 1993
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 34' Diesel Pusher Cummins B5.9 12 Valve Engine, Allison MD-3060 6 Speed Transmission.
TOAD: 2005 Ford Focus Automatic Station Wagon
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain
I just went through 4 days of frustrated trouble shooting of my 1995 Kohler generator so I know how you feel. On the surface it seems easy, like a lawn mower engine. If you are not getting spark to the plug I would suspect the coil. Were you able to remove all the sheet metal shrouding to get to the coil and magneto? Mine was a tricky to remove. I don't think that your Onan has points does it? In the research that I have done resistance between the spark plug wires should be 5,000-8,000 ohms. Mine read 26,000. Also there is a oil pressure switch which will cut spark if oil is low. some times switches go bad. This can be tested by removing the wire going to the switch and cranking the eng to check for spark. The other wire going to the coil can also be removed to check for spark. This wire grounds the coil to shut down generator. If you get spark then something in the wiring to the control board is bad. If not I would suspect the coil. Also I noticed on mine the contact points at the coil and lamination's were badly rusted as well as the contacts on the magneto tried cleaning and resetting the gap but still no spark. Hope this helps in troubleshooting your Onan.
thanks Sun, I strongly suspected it was the voltage reg, but needed to confirm.
Gjac:I pulled the coil out a couple of days ago and tested per the manual specs. Both primary and secondary coils were exactly where they needed to be, which was nice, sort of. My ignition is electronic, thankfully.
I do keep going back to the oil pressure switch, since it has a direct connection to the governor and is a first test and the governor has stopped doing its thing. I've tested that switch with and w/o ground. I want to just replace it, but have wasted too darn much money playing that swap-out game with the RV, cars, trucks, lawnmowers, on and on.
I Am Smarter Than A Generator! I keep telling myself...
And besides, that thing is HEAVY. If I'm going to drag it's butt all over the country, it is going to earn its way!
I wouldn't expect ANY AC output from the generator unless it was running. Still sounds like you can't get it or keep it running. I believe that the oil pressure switch is bypassed during initial start-up until the unit has come up to speed. If you think that the switch is a problem, it is a NO contact that closes with oil pressure. Jumper the contector wires together (similate a running generator) to see if that is the issue. Maybe the bypass relay is bad. JM2¢...
Ted & Carmella in the DreamCatcher a
2008 Challenger 371PE on F53 w/ 2010 Cobalt R'V there yet?
you suggested jumpering the leads around a relay. I've got jumpers, but Which relay, what leads?
I'm think I need to buy a better multimeter with frequency. The AC volts are showing 40 which may indicate the gen isn't turing over fast enough.
DO NOT pour fuel down the carb air intake. It only takes a few turns of the starter to get a backfire, and all that gas you poured in comes back at you in flames. There have been several posts here over the years I've been a member where such a flashback burned the MH to a crisp.
The ether spray "starter fluid" is less dangerous becuase it's a vapor when you spray it in.
Frank Damp, DW - Eileen
'02 Georgetown 325, F53, V-10, bought used in 2010 at 13,000 miles.
Dogs - 2 Labs again, both yellow males, both 9 yrs old and both adopted.
Thanks guys, I did do the spray route and nothing happened this time either. I have a question into the Just Answer guys. I made contact, then the site went dead. no replies or e-mails since 10AM today. They must have a server problem.
Looking to me to be a voltage regulator or governor problem.