the inside panel is a isn't soft, nothing we're too concerned about...yet, but some of the frame wood inside was really soft and came off when touched, but most of the interior is just styrofoam, so there's not too much fear of mold yet, we have duct tape covering the holes right now
Remove the drain plug/anode rod from the water heater and flush out with lots of water. If someone put antifreeze in there instead of bypassing it, it will take a lot of flushing to get it clean. Also look for a water filter in the system. If there is one it needs flushing and element needs to be replaced. You are on the right track with bleach water and letting it sit for awhile.
"black tinge" You may want to look around in the bays and see if you find a water filter. The black tinge may be from a charcoal water filter. You may also want to completely fill your water tank and drive it around to get the sides and top of the tank clean.
Steve & Linda
Son married (1 DIL, 3 granddaughters 1 grandson)
Daughter can now be called a Teacher.
Miami Co. Kansas
2004 F350 CC dually 8ft bed 6.0 PSD
2009 Bighorn 3670RL
B&W under bed hitch with 18k companion hitch
You have been getting lots of good solid info. The only thing I might add is...if you didn't pay an arm and leg for the unit. then just drive the begeezus out of it for the next 5 or ten years and let it go. Your winter will be cold but that won't cause any more damage except to wet wood, eh.
But,if you paid a bunch, then if you can find a handy person in the area? The cabin is a wood framed unit, so it can be rebuilt without hi-tech skills. The high cost of RV repairs are the $100.00+ an hour shop fees. If you don't have the know-how, don't take it on, but you could take it apart and then have the person put it back together. Just an FYI tho..the job will get bigger as you go, trust me.
There's lots of used RV's in Alberta..the patch people use them up and toss them. Check on Craigslist and call a bunch of salvage yards for a fridge.
For future buying...there are a number of RV manufacturers that build the frame using aluminum, so if/when it leaks, the cost or repair is much more palatable.
Gary Haupt
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.
happycamper1979 wrote: With the fridge (not getting cold) we've been using pans of ice to keep it cool, replacing them daily if not more.
Does the fridge run on either propane or electric, and it just isn't getting cold? Or does it not fire up at all? The older fridges have pilot lights that can be lit by hand if they don't "spark" on their own. We had a fridge that ran on electric fine, but we had to manually light the pilot because the "sparker" was worn out. Once the pilot was on, the fridge worked fine.
For the leak, if the wall is stable, then consider doing what has been suggested (fill with foam) then put a nice decal over the hole to disguise it. One fifth wheel we purchased had a hole covered by a decal which we didn't discover until I removed the decal (didn't like it). We plugged the hole with silicone then put on a decal we liked.
sue t.
Pictures from our manyRV Adventures to Yukon & Alaska
Travelling with either the 25' fifth wheel or the 8' truck camper.
so that's why so many rv's have so many stickers/decals, ha ha. The fridge is a 3 way, the pilot works well, no problems getting it lit, and can "hear" it working. The freezer gets cool but not freezing and the fridge doesn't get cool at all on either 3 modes. Could it be that it needs a freon charge?
for flushing the hot water tank, it's under the sink and tricky to get to, would there be a spot right on the tank where I would fill with water to flush it? or would i just use the fresh water tank and open the valve? we're not sure it's ever been opened since this nastiness started
Absorption fridges do not use freon. They take up to 12 hours to cycle the first time and up to 18 hours to reach the lowest temperature. They must be kept level when the RV is not in motion.
The twelve volt only setting works poorly at best, or not at all.
Speaking from experience, don't spend so much money on repairs that you feel obligated to keep this MH to "get your money out of it". Do what is necessary for safety and amenities that you need to make driving safe and camping enjoyable. Make sure tires are under five years old and do not have dangerous sidewall cracks despite having lots of tread and "looking like new". Have brake system checked and serviced as needed and have brake fluid flushed and changed. Have cooling system checked and serviced/repaired as needed. Older rigs often need radiator and "clutch fan" work. It's nice to have a good working fresh water pump, and smooth working black and gray water dump valves. If you have an awning, make sure it is stowed and locked securely, just shredded ours when it came down at 60mph. You pay "up front" for a newer rig, or later for an old used rig. Our fridge and roof A/C unit died after 7+ years of heavy use, some go much longer depending on levelling and usage habits.
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