JIMNLIN
out here
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Joined: 09/14/2003
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delete double post..... Jim 
* This post was
edited 08/11/12 07:23am by JIMNLIN *
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers
'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 gvwr two slides
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camperdave
northern, California
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Joined: 10/16/2003
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i plug into a 110v outlet at home, it's a 30a TT-30 receptacle, but it's on a 20a circuit. I wired in the TT-30 just to avoid an adapter at the outlet. Anyway, I have no problems running the AC. When I'm out in the street and plugged in via a 100ft 10awg extension cord the voltage will droop a little, but it's still always been over 108v (my personal shut it down limit).
Anyway, go ahead and try it, see what you get. oh, and make sure the electric water heater is off, that's a big power suck you don't need going at home.
1998 Ford E350 extended van, V-10, 3.73
1998 Fleetwood Terry 22lw, 24' long, 5000 pounds
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RoyB
King George, VA
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This is what I do at home for my two RV trailers running off of 20AMP Receptacles in my garage.
I lucked out and found some contractor grade real heavy duty 10 GAUGE (10-3) extension cords at a yard sale. These are not going to be cheap at the stores...
It is must have item however... One of my trailers is about 60-feet away from my garage connections and I use an 30AMP RV extension cord on the end of the 30AMP shore power cable and then connect to my 10-GAUGE extension cord going to the garage.
Also I could not get away with using the small round type RV30A-15A adapters. I had to get one of those 18-inch long "dogbone" type adapters. WALMART sells one in their RV parts section. The little round and triangle type black adapters always got hot on me after being run for a short time. Hook everything up and get your air conditioner going then go feel your connections everywhere after awhile and make sure nothing gets warm to hot on you. This can damage your air conditioner as well as when something gets hot it will drop your operating voltage feeding the trailer. I have an RV 120VAC plug-in meter in my trailer where I can see it in plain view so I get to observe the power reading easily. This meter has a GREEN scale marked on it which is the SAFE ZONE to be used when the air conditioner is running. Good to have around...
I use this type adapter on the end of the extension cords where the 30A Shore Power Cable plugs into it...
I can NOT use these type of adapters as they always ended up getting HOT on me after a short time of use...
 
This is the RV meter I use to monitor 120VAC line voltage with inside trailer. Don't use air conditioner if the reading is outside the green "SAFE ZONE" reading.
Been doing this for five years running my OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer and a Fifth Wheel trailer off separate 20AMP Garage 120VAC receptacles without any issues. I can run everything in the trailer including air conditioning but have to watch what is being turned on at the the same time. i.e. if I turn on the Microwave Unit when running the air conditioner it will trip my garage breaker. The main thing that is running in both my trailers in the converter/charger keeping the battery banks up and running and during the winter months I run a oil-filled electric heater set on low to keep things from freezing inside the trailer.
Some folks get away with running 12-GAUGE HEAVY DUTY (12-3) extension cords. I would definitely NOT go any smaller than 12-gauge. Those cheap RED and ORANGE extensions cords you find at the dept stores are not large enough to handle the RV trailer load.
Like I said above I have been very successful over the years running my POPUP and FIFTH WHEEL off the garage receptacles over the past five years with no problems. Just make sure none of the connection points are getting warm to hot on you and it will work just fine for a 30AMP trailer hookup.
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
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RichieC
Gig Harbor - Cave Creek
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Just a side note, but I found the 50-foot 12/3 extension at Costco for $19.99 !!! They run about $70 at big box home stores.
2008 Arctic Fox all season 1140 model
2005 F350 6.0 dually with 102,500 miles 85% with camper on.
Bulletproof oil cooler and EGR cooler added at 100K
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smkettner
Southern California
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Watch the voltage in the RV stays up, watch the adapter does not melt down.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something
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Earl E
Green Valley, AZ
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I tried over and over with a 15 amp circuit and blew the breaker every time. Finally used an adapter into a 30 amp circuit, with a 20 amp extension cord, and had no problems. Not ideal but it worked for the very short term.
2007 Northwoods Arctic Fox 32 5S Fifth Wheel-for sale now that we are not full-timing
2011 Keystone 23rks Hideout to poke around the smaller parks in the great Southwest
2007 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD Diesel
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Cummins12V98
on the road
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Joined: 06/03/2012
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Chuck&Gail wrote:Check voltage inside RV with A/C running. If below 110 VAC, turn it off. If higher, no problem.
Good advice!
2011 Ram Laramie Longhorn 3500 Dually Long Bed, Cummins 350/800 HO, Towin Machine
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02super250
Wisconsin
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Or you could just wire a 30amp plug outside and not have to worry about it at all.I think my total cost was around $60-70 and installed myself.Now I can run air and anything else I want.
2011 F350 Lariat 4x4 CC DRW Powerstroke 3:73,LineX,Duraflaps on all four corners,BAK Flip F1.
2011 Keystone Alpine 3640RL 
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SailingOn
Central Texas
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Link for installing a 30 am RV supply at your home:
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
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jdbishop
Alabama
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All I can say is DON'T if you have a 15 BTU. I had mine on a 50' 12/3 cord and melted the adapter after replacing that had to replace both capacitors which a local rv store wanted 72.00 for both went down the street to a motor repair shop got them for 15.00 for both. Also if you don't have clean power 110v or higher I wouldn't run a 13.5 BTU on it just my opinion....
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