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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > dumb question about WD setup - avoiding bouncing

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chracatoa

Seattle

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Posted: 08/10/12 11:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the car is bouncing on the road - like up and down - should I move the jacks up (moving more weight to the front) or down?


2011 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD 5.7L V8 (next one will be a 3/4, someday)
2012 Jayco Flight Swift 267BHS (5963lbs dry, 6850 wet)
Propride hitch (I had a Reese dual cam round bar WDH for 4 months)

wbwood

Lake Norman, NC area

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Posted: 08/10/12 11:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might need to adjust the WD bars by a chain link. This happened to us after we had our hitch installed. They placed it one link off. We bounced (porpoised) all the way home with the camper every time we went across a bridge. Took it to my local CW and they looked at it. Just looking at it, the tech could tell what was wrong. He adjusted it and i took it for a 50 mile test ride. It stopped doing it.


Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L
ACME Tow Dolly
2007 Toyota Yaris (Toad)


Golden_HVAC

Fulltime, CA, USA

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Posted: 08/10/12 11:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes it sounds like the WD bars are to tight.

Fred.

chracatoa

Seattle

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Posted: 08/11/12 12:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A chain link up or down? or, in my case, move the jack down and loosing it up a little bit?

So the bouncing means I'm sending too much weight to the front axle?

sharker6

fulltime KY, NC, FL, MA, TN

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Posted: 08/11/12 05:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When viewing from the side your TV and TT hooked-up, the front of the TT should be slightly lower than the back of the TT. That will put move constant weight on the back of your TV thus eliminating the porpoising. The bouncing is being caused by TT weight being applied then released from the back of your TV as you go down the road. You need to shift more weight to the from of your TT. One or two chain links should do it.


2009 30' Fleetwood Wilderness, 2008 F-250 Super Duty FX4 stump puller


TomG2

Central Illinois

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Posted: 08/11/12 06:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My "guess" is that you need more tension on your WD bars which can be accomplished by having one less link under tension or one more hanging if you prefer thinking that way. Personally, I would go weigh the combination with and without WD connected to find out what I had. Best ten dollars that anyone with a TT can spend.

VintageRacer

Tatamagouche Nova Scotia

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Posted: 08/11/12 06:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The bars are either too light or are not tight enough, so they aren't helping the tow vehicle enough. Tighten up the bars by going one link less on each side or by adjusting the head angle. The bars should be about level if the head angle is correct. My take on this anyway. I always use bars one size larger than the tongue weight for this reason.

Brian


2005 F250 Supercab, Powerstroke, 5 speed automatic, 3.73 gears.
20 ft race car hauler, Lola T440 Formula Ford, NTM MK4 Sports Racer
1980 MCI MC-5C highway coach conversion
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skipnchar

Topeka or somewhere else

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Posted: 08/11/12 07:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The things that make a perfect set up on any WD system is FIRST of all having the correct strength bars installed. Weight rating should be based on GVWR of your trailer and using between 10 and 15% of that weight as the optimum spring bar rating (usually closer to 15% means you'll be covered for all towing situations). Then the system has to be correctly set up by measuring fender wells or some OTHER method. Measuring fender wells to know the drop involved and adjusting it out is the most accurate method but another method is to keep increasing WD tension until you reduce the rear wheel traction then back off until traction is normal. It's been MY finding that with correctly sized bars, too much bounce means NOT transferring enough weight. Be prepared to make a number of stabs at it until you get it perfect for your car. When it's right it should ride pretty close to the same as when not towing.
Good luck / Skip


2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
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boosTT

Milwaukee

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Posted: 08/11/12 07:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem. I fixed it by lowering the hitch ball one setting. It increased my toung weight. See if your towing the nose of your trailer too high.

joeprinter

Fayetteville, NC

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Posted: 08/11/12 07:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

with you WD you want your chains to be paralleled not angled many times they chains are over tight thinking tight is better. I would try that first, grab a link less, then see if the porpoising stops.


"2012 Forest River 360 DS"
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"2013 Toyota Corolla on Tow Dolly"


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