TGarrett
TN/SC
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OK, so today I replaced the capacitors for the startup and running of the AC, the fan is still operational. They burned out due to low voltage. I wired them up using the front AC as a guide. What is the likely hood that if after that it still won't start that the compressor is also burned out.
Garrett
2004 Fleetwood Expedition 38N
Full Timer
Toad(still to be setup) 2011 Jeep Rubicon
2nd (to be put on double trailer with 1st when moving) 2008 Honda S2000
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bldrbuck
one or the other
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Joined: 02/11/2001
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You ask us to guess what will happen? The unit will probably work just fine if your wiring is correct.
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TGarrett
TN/SC
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It didn't start...
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powderman426
ohio
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TGarrett wrote:It didn't start...
What did it do?? Hum, blow the breaker,nothing, etc?
Ron & Charlotte
WD8CBT since 1976
28' Prowler & 05 Ram QC LB
I started with nothing and I still have most of it left
I never fail, I just succeed in finding out what doesn't work
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TGarrett
TN/SC
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Fan cuts on still nothing else. I went up and felt the side of the box where the capacitors are and it was warm, but if it's wired same as front(gonna have an electrician come over and check it tomorrow he is parked next to me) I figured if it burnt out the capacitors maybe it did more damage.
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Triker33
Homestead, FL
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Did you replace the fan or the compressor capacitors?
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chipper
Nampa,Id
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Capacitors don't usually burn out due to low voltage, motors do thou.
gene
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TGarrett
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Triker33 wrote:Did you replace the fan or the compressor capacitors?
TGarrett wrote:OK, so today I replaced the capacitors for the startup and running of the AC
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TGarrett
TN/SC
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chipper wrote:Capacitors don't usually burn out due to low voltage, motors do thou.
So would the motor buring out cause the capacitors to blow up possibly?
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C Schomer
Buckeye, Az.
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Have sparky unplug the 3 compressor wires and ohm the comm, start and run terminals. C to R + C to S should = R to S. Also ohm the terminals to ground to check for shorts. A megger would be better if he has one. High resistance faults won't show up on most ohm meters. If it ohms/meggers OK, plug the wires back in and use an amp clamp on the run and start wires (one at a time) while the power is back on to the compressor. If neither wire draw amps, there is another problem. The run wire will draw more than the start. If it draws amps on the run but not the start wire, that means current is not making it thru the caps and the start winding. The compressor (or any other PSC motor) won't start on just the run winding only. If it draws amps thru both wires and won't start, that's bad news. That usually means a locked rotor - compressor is history. Checking amps is the most positive way. Only checking voltage at the terminals can be tricky cuz of back feeds. I use a "bumpbox" to check compressors. It's a box with leads/alligator clips,switches and built in capacitors. It bypasses all the unit wiring and puts power straight to the compressor terminals. It only takes about 2 minutes to diagnose a compressor with it. Craig
* This post was
edited 08/13/12 07:16pm by C Schomer *
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