Quick trip
Cerritos, Ca.
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Joined: 12/23/2005
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tpi:
your profile doesn't look like a Lazy Daze at all!
Time to upgrade your profile?
We are also looking at a Lazy Daze!
Good Luck & Drive Safe!
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tpi
Southern CA.
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Joined: 02/22/2005
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Swapped in a new one in O'neil Park
One of the reasons I bought the LD was the local build and repair in Montclair. Coach portion has been great so far, two nights out. Overcab bed is great with the help of foam topper.
Ford required new shock (squeak), and wheel alignment (eccentrics).
* This post was
edited 08/12/12 08:01pm by tpi *
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TyroneandGladys
Chandler AZ
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Joined: 06/03/2008
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One of the most common topics in the forum check the following
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26286594.cfm
IMHO Start with the simplest cheapest solutions and work your way up. Before spending money on anything spend it on getting it weighed loaded for a trip. If you do not have enough weight on the front end you will have problems. With the weight you can set your tire pressure If you do not have enough weight on the front and spend the money for alignment once you do get enough weight on the front you will have to have it realigned.
Tyrone & Gladys
26" 1986 Coachmen
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ron.dittmer
Northern Illinois
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stevekk wrote:I am a newbie to MH. Just bought a used 2011 Born Free 23 foot with 4000 miles with V10 engine E350 chassis and driving it back to CA.
It wanders. Any suggestions? Tire pressure seems OK. Many of the shorter rigs on an E350 chassis with a 158" wheel base or less, with a significant rear overhang, suffers from wandering. The problem is further compounded when the fresh water tank is mounted over the rear bumper placed sideways. Both the weight of the water along with the sloshing of water side to side, influences the handling of the rig.
That is our rig's inharrent situation. Our wandering was completely resolved with heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars, rear trac bar, and made-for-motorhome shock absorbers. Also a good wheel alignment and front heavy duty steering stabilizer. No handling issues since. It is very steady, even while towing under poor road and wind-gust conditions. Problem is 100% solved, no wait, 110% solved.
* This post was
edited 08/13/12 02:55pm by ron.dittmer *
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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pnichols
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Joined: 04/26/2005
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Steve,
Get the least expensive thing checked and optimized first - as Harvard talks about above - and as is explained in more detail here starting with a post by Harvard:
http://forums.trailerlife.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26250950.cfm
Also, do a search in the Class C forum for much more discussion about optimum E350/E450 front end alignment, in which Harvard makes a lot more contributions to.
Your small Class C motorhome on an E350 chassis should not need a lot of $$$ poured into it to make it better. At least begin by getting front end alignment to be optimum for your motorhome on the Ford chassis. Then after that have it weighed by individual "axle" - the weight on the four rear wheels and the weight on the two front wheels. Add the the two weights together to get your Class C's total weight. The weight on the two front wheels should be at least 32% of the total weight. a bit more than 32% is even better. If it fails this check - then redistribution of weight can be done a little bit through adjusting how you load it for traveling. After that if it still wanders, then $$$ will be required to eliminate the wander.
* This post was
edited 08/13/12 07:19pm by pnichols *
Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca 324V Spirit
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Gene in NE
Omaha
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Joined: 09/15/2003
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As "ron.dittmer" mentions the wheelbase ratio to overall length will contribute substantially to weave or wander problems. It's the tail wagging the dog. Any ratio less than about 54% will be noticeable especially in windy conditions.
And also frequently mentioned is the ratio of weight of the front axle to the total weight. I believe Ford would like to have about 30-35% of the total weight on the front axle. I presume that is to keep the front wheels controlling the direction the motorhomes is traveling.
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene
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pnichols
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Quote:It's the tail wagging the dog.
The OP's rig is only 23 feet ... probably no tail wagging issues large enough to count. Just a guess.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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Just re-read this thread and I'd suggest:
1. Load RV as for Camping/Travel
2. Get it Weighed. At least Front, Rear, Total. Ideally Four Corners.
3. Try to get that 30-35% onto the front axle.
4. Adjust tire pressure to actual (particularly FRONT) axle loaded weight using a tire manufacturer's Load/Pressure chart.
5. Have it aligned by a shop that understands and completely does this type front end. Probably will require offset bushings. Suggest what Harvard did. That's adjustable bushings from Ingalls that look like
And set Caster to the high end if the spec range.
If that plan works it'll drive well for under $200 and you won't be adding aftermarket stuff before addressing root causes.
Our 24' was on 158" WB and drove fine. It was the pre-1992 chassis which I think drove better, but all I ever did was replace OEM front sway bar bushings (it never had a rear sway bar or track bar) and correct toe from way out to slightly in.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
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tpi
Southern CA.
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Joined: 02/22/2005
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Can you usually get the 7 degrees caster without the aftermarket bushings?
Does anyone have a recommendation for good alignment shop is southern CA, particularly OC area?
It would be great if Ford had a cutaway optioned just for class C use. Some of this built in at factory. While it would still take some adjustment, it would be in the ballpark than the jack of all trades chassis now offered.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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In many cases you can't align to specs without offset bushings, so I think it's safe to say you'd need offset, if not unsusual offset, bushings to get Caster into the 5-6-7 range.
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