My wife, daughter and I are looking to buy a used class C for an epic trip across the country. We will do this trip in the next year to year and a half. We have been camping for the past twenty years, been though two pop ups and currently a 31 TT. I would like any advice that can be offered for a unit, right now I like the coachman Leprechaun in the 31'
length. I think I will be better off with a V 10 than the 8 for the size. We may also be pulling a goldwing motorcycle on a trailer.
Is the triton engine a good choice or not?
is the mileage sacrifice worth the extra power?
Any suggestions on any other manufactures?
What units should we stay away from in our search?
scootr01 wrote: My wife, daughter and I are looking to buy a used class C for an epic trip across the country. We will do this trip in the next year to year and a half. We have been camping for the past twenty years, been though two pop ups and currently a 31 TT. I would like any advice that can be offered for a unit, right now I like the coachman Leprechaun in the 31'
length. I think I will be better off with a V 10 than the 8 for the size. We may also be pulling a goldwing motorcycle on a trailer.
Is the triton engine a good choice or not? YES
is the mileage sacrifice worth the extra power? YES. If you go into real mountains, it will matter.
Any suggestions on any other manufactures? I only have experience with Winnebago/Itasca. I do recommend them.
What units should we stay away from in our search? I don't know of any manufacturers that are really bad. All of them occasionally make a bad unit.
Thanks for all the advice and help.
Bobbo
Bobbo, Linda and the furry kids (1&1/2 German Shepherds)
2007 Winnebago Outlook WF331C on a Ford E450 Super Duty Chassis
2010 Subaru Forester w/BlueOx baseplate & Ready Brute Elite towbar
The quality of the V10 depends on the year. They are a quqlity product but the older ones had issues with the heads. There is loads of info on this forum ablut the V10. I have a Class A with the V10. Plenty of power.
Quote: I think I will be better off with a V 10 than the 8 for the size. We may also be pulling a goldwing motorcycle on a trailer.
Is the triton engine a good choice or not?
is the mileage sacrifice worth the extra power?
Any suggestions on any other manufactures?
What units should we stay away from in our search?
Thanks for all the advice and help.
When you buy new you CAN make some sort of justifiable comparison decisions.
When you are buying used it totally depends on THE unit you are looking at, and how well the previous owner took care of it, period.
So look in your price range and needs and then focus on that unit and check out how everything looks and make sure everything is in working order.
Do NOT buy any MH that has been sitting. Whether it be from being buried hub cap high in the dirt sitting in a permanent CG site or simple from non use for long periods of time in someome's driveway.
All I will add is the V-10 has tons of power and shows her strength on steep grades and when towing and out shines all the rest. You don't loose MPG with the V-10 if you drive it sensibly on the flat.
Good luck on finding just the right RV for you and your family!
"We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us".
Any conventional class-C (non-super-C) in the 31' length is pretty much as long & heavy as they come. The big ones are typically constructed on an E450-V10 which is the most capable chassis for such an application.
When shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. What methods are built to last, and what methods are built to be most affordable.
Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.
When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" and/or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water penetration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also form and then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.
#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, door, roof-top vents and a/c unit, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.
#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.
a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.
b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.
There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Some manufactures as of late offer a particial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Phantom is one such example. That seems to be a reasonable compromise. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.
c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after the caulk has dried out from age & sun, as well as fatigue from the change in seasons.
d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.
e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall Cap
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.
Potentially Troublesome Construction
Try to avoid this if possible. Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. If considering this type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.
There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best
About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.
If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.
Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.
Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.
You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.
There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable.
The Chevy GMC 3500/4500 Chassis
I think these should be more popular than they are. I assume it has to do with the cost of the chassis. The Chevy/GMC offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy/GMC adds an additional 9" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 9 more inches to work with.
Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & GMC/Chevy Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft Srinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft GMC/Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft
We are planning something similar for 2014 - a circle trip across the top of the U.S. in the early fall and back across the southern part later in the year. We have a Coachman Freelander 2600 that measures about 29', with a diesel engine. We plan to tow a small car that we will buy for the purpose, and will carry multiple model airplanes for my husband to fly at fields along the way. The size you have (or smaller) is ideal for maneuverability in the wide variety of places you will visit.
Absolutely a bigger engine is essential for climbing hills and mountains. We got the diesel for the extra turbo boost for that reason, but they are hard to find. It is no fun being a slug that struggles up grades, holding up traffic. My husband believes the Ford chassis and power train is superior to Chevy, but we wouldn't dream of getting into that discussion with a Chevy guy.
Our unit has one slide that contains the dinette and refrigerator. When we started looking, we didn't have an opinion one way or the other about slides. We find that this one suits us perfectly. It eliminates all the feeling of being cramped and having to do the "dance" of squeezing past each other all the time.
Our unit has plenty of indoor and "belly" storage. The storage isn't well organized, in that you open a cabinet door and nothing is there but space. We have overcome that with adroit use of plastic bins. One exception to this is that it has a nice vertical pantry opposite the stove that works well for us. We use the cabover for some extra storage in milk crates, but you may be planning to have your daughter sleep there. She could make the dinette into a bed each night, which is a little bit of a nuisance but is doable.
One negative about our unit, but one we can live with, is that the rear queen bed is not a walk-around - only two sides are exposed, and only about 80% of those two. It is necessary to crawl onto the bed to change sheets. It's not terribly convenient, but would only be a show-stopper if no one in the group is physically able to do the crawl. After all, you really only have to do it once a week or so.
Another negative, one that is being a real nuisance, is the lack of an inverter and extra deep-cycle battery, and no space to install one. We both have to run CPAP machines at night, and for dry camping, we have to have the generator running all night. We can't even get up early and run the coffeemaker or microwave without firing up the generator. We are still deciding on an alternative that works both for us and for campground neighbors - either figuring out how and where to install an inverter, or having it external to the coach somehow, or buying one of those auxiliary power units that are made specifically for CPAPs. For your purpose, I would definitely be looking for an inverter.
We also like the split bathroom, just forward of the bedroom. The shower is on one side, and the toilet and sink, with a door that closes, is on the other. Or you can open the door all the way and it shuts the bedroom and bathroom off from the kitchen and dinette area, which also contains a comfy stuffed chair.
We started shopping with no preconceived notions and found something that works for us. The coach quality isn't the same as a house, but we understand that - it has to be lightweight, and it doesn't get the same kind of use as a house. Some walls are thin, but there are other solid walls if you want to hang something like a book rack. Everything that has to actually function - a/c, toilet, water system, etc. - works well. The a/c will get its first real test next weekend when we spend four days at Wenatchee in eastern Washington, with 100+ degree days.
Some people say to start with a floor plan in mind - that the floor plan is everything. I say start with the functions you require, and look for a unit with those functions and a floor plan you can live with.
Good luck, and we look forward to hearing about your choice and how you made it !
pompomgirl wrote: Some people say to start with a floor plan in mind - that the floor plan is everything. I say start with the functions you require, and look for a unit with those functions and a floor plan you can live with.
I agree with you pompomgirl.
#1 - opperational needs
#2 - construction of house
#3 - floorplan that works
Since 2007, every model of our brand motor home here has been equiped with a whole house inverter and two large coach batteries. Our trip experiences would be severely impacted negatively without them.
Try to read through the many recommendations on buying new or used, lengths, floor plans, features, etc., etc. Some recommendations are based on direct experience, many are "hearsay" and pride of ownership-based. You can buy a new rig with factory housebox/contents and chassis warranties, used with transferrable warranties. or older used with no warranties. Used RV's generally need new tires for safety reasons even if they are under 5 years old especially if the RV has not been driven regularly. Don't buy an extended warranty, set money aside for recurring costs, repairs, replacements and upgrades. Get references for a dealer with a good reputation for quick and satisfactory after-sale warranty service on new rigs. If cost is important, consider buying a 3 year old rig with EVERYTHING working perfectly. Pay an RV repair service and a truck mechanic to verify that everthing is ok and if not get their estimate for repairs/replacements/and upgrades. Have all dealer promises in writing on the sales contract.
I'd like to know were all of you are finding RV Repair or Even Auto repair shops that are willing to do a mechanical check for you?
First of all I have found that no owner or dealer 'selling a used MH, will let you 'take' their vehicle off to another shop. To be honest "I" would not let you!
All my friends in the repair business want no part of checking out used vehicles for anyone. They all say it's an accident waiting to happen, because if the customer buys the vehicle based on their opinion and 'anything' happens down the road the customer is all over them like a cheap shirt.....and an RV? There are SO many things on a MH other than the engine those are a given no they won't check it out. Heck my best buddy who is an RV mobile repair won't check them out for anyone buying a used one. just saying.
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