RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Transfer Switch Problem?

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  General Topics

 > Transfer Switch Problem?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
Sponsored By:
Bounderman

Beaverton OR

New Member

Joined: 04/03/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/19/12 10:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I have an electrical transfer switch issue. When plugged in or when generator runs the AC items work fine (microwave, TV, outlets) but the DC systems do not appear to switch over. Lights in the coach are not bright fridge does not switch over. After a while, the lights get bright and it appears everything switches over. After about 5 minutes the lights dim again. This cycle continues. Batteries are new and it's 2002 Damon 35 ft Intruder if that helps. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

dgcarver

Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Full Member

Joined: 11/23/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/19/12 10:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since the lights are dim and then get bright and then dim again, it sounds like you have a converter/charger problem. It sounds like the unit is switching on and off, perhaps due to overheating?
When on the voltage will rise to about 13.5 volts on the DC system (brighter lights) and when it goes off, the batteries will drop down to about 12.5 (dimmer lights) if the batteries are new and charged. However, if it is the converter/charger, the batteries many not be fully charged and the voltage may be lower. If they get very dim, your batteries are probablly around 11.0 to 11.5 volts. Anyway, put a voltmeter on your batteries and watch the voltage.

A new converter/charger section will probably run you around $200 to $300 installed depending on size, model, installer cost, etc. I replaced mine in about 30 min. but that was the converter/charger and the DC distribution board because I upgraded to a smart 3-stage unit with a little higher capacity.

(edit- Changed 14.5 volts to 13.5 Volts since he probably doesn't have a 3 stage charger)

* This post was edited 08/20/12 04:57pm by dgcarver *


RV - 2011 Winnebago Vista 26P
TV - 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland

welove2rv

VA

Full Member

Joined: 10/30/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/20/12 05:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello, Your problem sounds like mine. I thought it was my converter/ charger but when i checked it it is putting out 13.6v but its not getting to the batteries. Things like this always happen when i need to use it. If i figure it out i will let you now what it was.

imgoin4it

Alamogordo, NM USA

Senior Member

Joined: 10/25/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/20/12 06:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the batteries are new and it did not act this way before the batteries were replaced suggest you check the battery connections as well as other wiring from the converter.


Retired and loving it
Living in the Land of Enchantment
Traveling in 2007 Newmar KSDP
towing a Jeep Liberty
with a Blue Ox tow bar

Raymon

Phoenixville, PA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/09/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/20/12 06:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You need to check the output from your converter/charger. Take a voltage measurement across the negative and positive posts on the batteries with the generator running or plugged into shore power. You should have between 13 and 14 volts DC. If you have voltage much lower, then your converter/charger may be bad. But first check the circuit breaker that is located between the converter/charger and the batteries. It probably is an automotive type breaker. Check the breaker for continuity; if good then use a jumper across the breaker with shore power on and measure the voltage across the negative and positive posts of the battery. If the voltage is still low, then the converter/charge is most likely bad. If you have between 13 and 14 volts DC with the jumper on, then the breaker is bad. A new breaker can be gotten at any auto supply store for about $10. Take the bad breaker with you and the auto store will be able to match the amperage.

Ray

phays

Ohio

Full Member

Joined: 10/15/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/20/12 04:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I doubt you have a transfer switch problem. As posted by others, you may have a converter problem. Sounds like you have a converter going out. You don't say if you have an inverter/charger/converter or just a converter/charger. If the latter and you have to replace it, make sure you get one with a 3 stage charger.

Bounderman

Beaverton OR

New Member

Joined: 04/03/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/21/12 01:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the great info. The voltage is 13.3 when the lights are bright and 11-11.5 when they are dim. If it matters, the voltage is 14.5 when the main engine is running. There seems to be concensus on the converter. I'll check it out. Thanks again. You all are terrific!

dgcarver

Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Full Member

Joined: 11/23/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 08/21/12 10:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Be sure and let us know the outcome.

garry1p

Oklahoma

Senior Member

Joined: 08/12/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/21/12 05:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The reason everyone says converter is the problem is because the 12V is not switched by transfer switch only the 120V is switched.

Most converters have a safety feature and shutdown if overheating, it could be the fan in the converter is not working, the converter is blocked or covered and poor circulation causing overheating or the converter is failing and needs replacing.


Garry1p


1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport


Bounderman

Beaverton OR

New Member

Joined: 04/03/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/24/12 06:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK. Converter is out and I got cold feet and thought I should test it prior to spending $300 on a new one. 2 service shops said it needs to be tested in the coach. Ugh. Does anyone know how to bench test these or do I have enough info to just install a new one.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  General Topics

 > Transfer Switch Problem?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2013 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS