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michael81240

Penrose, Colorado

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Posted: 08/20/12 09:25pm

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Dash A/C compressor making lots of noise and need new compressor with accessories(condenser, dryer, etc).
Need a good reputable A/C, dare I say inexpensive, etc, A/C mechanic in Colorado Springs/Pueblo, area.
2000 Southwind, Ford Triton V10, F53.
Any experience with one, also, what would be a fair price estimate.
Thanks,
Michael

bldrbuck

one or the other

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Posted: 08/21/12 08:37am

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Take a look the phone book and go to Camping World.

bsinmich

Holland, MI

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Posted: 08/21/12 08:42am

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Check with some of the local people in your neighborhood, church, club or a place like that. You are talkinig a lot of money here and need the most reliable you can find. A good auto radiator shop is a good place to start. This is not a job I would trust to Camping world because it involves so much. Did you damage the condensor somehow? How good does the generator and coach air jkeep you comfortable? This repair could buy a lot of generator gas.

2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, 2008 Saturn Vue, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake

michael81240

Penrose, Colorado

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Posted: 08/21/12 09:03am

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I agree that it could cost a lot. Camping world is not an option.
I don't mind the coach air but just checking to see if I can get the whole thing reasonable. May not need the condenser, but need someone good who will be honest and reliable.

deandec

Northern CA

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Posted: 08/21/12 09:15am

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I just purchased a TM-15 category compressor on EBAY from BuyAutoParts.com for $209 delivered ground UPS. Also purchased an Accumulator Drier for $40. An ac service will charge more than that as they add labor for the overhead time and guarantee their work.

If the compressor failed, your service will need to capture your refrigerant. Then flush the system. Then replace the Compressor and Drier/Accumulator. They will install the Compressor, evacuate the system and test for leaks. Then reinstall your 134a and top it off.

I had a quote for $400 to do the above using my compressor and drier but without the system flush (since only my compressor clutch failed)so should be no debris from a compressor failure.

My guess is you are looking at a $700 to $800 repair.

Did the compressor fail or did the clutch fail. You can replace just the clutch for a lot less bother and cost. My compressor is 17 years old so I opted for the whole deal.

Dean
95 CC Magna, Jeep GC

crasster

Dallas

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Posted: 08/21/12 09:17am

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If you have access to the internet (obviously) google it. There are often reviews you can read on certain businesses. It should be a fairly common fix that many garages can handle if its built on a standard truck.

4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

michael81240

Penrose, Colorado

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Posted: 08/21/12 09:30am

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Thanks deandec,
I believe that the clutch is the only failure. I need someone who will tell me the truth about that. The compressor will not come on. No power to the compressor. The low pressure switch is the only piece that I have not been able to test because of its location. Mine is 13 years old and I would like what you did. I just need someone reliable to give me good info.
Thanks

topflite51

In The Desert of Nevada

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Posted: 08/21/12 11:48am

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Have you tried a Ford dealer?

David
Just rolling along enjoying life
w/F53 Southwind towing a 87 Samurai or 01 Grand Vitara looking to golf or fish
Simply Despicable

Any errors are a result of CRS.

MountainAir05

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/21/12 12:20pm

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If you are traveling , then just run the generator and turn on the overhead air. Fix it when you get home.

deandec

Northern CA

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Posted: 09/09/12 12:57pm

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michael81240 wrote:

How did your fix get resolved?

If you still do not know if it is a clutch, pressure switch, or power failure here are some DIY steps.

First, the compressor only spins with the drive belt and is not a electrical item

The clutch, center of the Compressor pulleys, magnetically attaches to the pulleys and spins when the AC switch is turned on.

If there is not enough pressure on the high pressure side, the low
pressure switch will turn off the power to the clutch.

If there is not enough power to the AC clutch wire it will not spin.

So, check your fuse on the power wire if the clutch does not spin.

If the fuse is ok, disconnect the clutch wire from the power wire about 12 inches from the back of the clutch. There should be a connector there.

Touch a jumper wire from a 12 vdc source to the clutch wire and see if the clutch reacts. If so, the clutch may be ok.

If the clutch reacts and the fuse is ok then check the power wire to see if it has 10vdc or more with the engine running and the AC switch on.

If no power, switch a relay from a working system into the AC system to see if the relay is the problem.

If there is no power on the power wire and the relay and fuse are ok then the problem could be at the AC switch or the Low Pressure switch.

You should be able to see power going to the fuse from the AC switch by using your multimeter.

If that works, then it is time to recharge the system.

Replacing the Clutch or Clutch coil avoids the need to evacuate the existing 134a in the system and is less expensive than replacing the compressor.

If you replace the Compressor, you will need to recapture the 134a contents and be sure to get a credit from the service that does this for you. They charge $40 per lb of 134a unless you have banked the credit.

You will also need to buy a new AC Drier for about $40 to mate with the new compressor.

Then you will need put the system under vacuum to leak test and remove the atmospheric water from the system before replacing the 134a.

My rig requires 5lbs of 134a, so that stuff gets expensive at $40 per lb. You can buy 134a in an auto store for about $20 per lb.