Catfishman
North Texas
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Joined: 08/13/2004
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Just set up this afternoon in a Central Texas campground. Plugged into shore power and turned on the AC and refrigerator. Both worked for about 30 seconds before I heard the distinctive "pop" of the kitchen ground fault outlet on the wall opposite the frig. The AC continued with no problem. When I reset the GFCI and turned the frig on, it popped again. I thought the GFCI was weak, so I purchased a new one at Lowe's and tried it again. Same result. When the frig is turned on the ground fault outlet clicks off! Any ideas??
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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The electric heater element in the fridge has made contact with the chassis. This is a normal failure mode for these things and the longer you let it go the harder it may be to extricate it.
So bottom line is you need to replace the heater.
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keatonb16
New Brunswick Canada
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double check if it is the fridge at fault. Unplug it and plug a hair dryer into the fridge outlet and see if it kicks. Doubtful but could be just the circuit
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garym114
Bluff Dale, Texas
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Operate on gas and replace the heating element later.
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clearnetedm
Alberta
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Isn't the fridge a 12V or gas, or is it also 120V? If just 12V it seems odd they would affect the GFCI. I agree remove the fridge from the equation and see if other sources can trip it. The 120V system should be totally isolated from the chassis and 12 Volt ground system. Traditionally/typically an RV 120 system should never use the chassis for grounding. If a 12V source is affecting the 120V GFCI I would start at the converter/power distribution area and work out. Otherwise rule out the entire 120V system and sources before replacing any devices.
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Catfishman
North Texas
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Thanks for the several responses. It is a "3-Way" refrigerator but, purchased used, the gas option has never worked. We always camp with shore power so the gas option wasn't an issue. Tomorrow, I will try a hair dryer and see if the GFCI will trip. I'll report the results. Thanks
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clearnetedm
Alberta
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Catfishman wrote:Thanks for the several responses. It is a "3-Way" refrigerator but, purchased used, the gas option has never worked. We always camp with shore power so the gas option wasn't an issue. Tomorrow, I will try a hair dryer and see if the GFCI will trip. I'll report the results. Thanks
Aww ok that makes more sense. Good plan on testing the outlet as that would certainly be a cheaper fix if so. Keep us posted.
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Gdetrailer
PA
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clearnetedm writes "Isn't the fridge a 12V or gas, or is it also 120V? If just 12V it seems odd they would affect the GFCI."
RV fridges come in a variety of possible setups.
Some are are "two way" Gas or 120V. These use gas flame or 120V heating element to heat the ammonia solution.
Some are "three way" Gas, 12V, 120V. Thes use gas flame, 12V heating element or 120V heating element to heat the ammonia solution.
Modern day RV fridges however will also have an electronic control board. this board uses 12V to operate the fridge no mater what heat source is being used.
"I agree remove the fridge from the equation and see if other sources can trip it. The 120V system should be totally isolated from the chassis and 12 Volt ground system."
12V and 120V grounds are actually "bonded" via the electrical panel.
The green (or bare wire) equipment ground of the shore cord is bonded to the steel frame of the RV from the 120V distribution panel. The negative ground of the battery is ALSO connected to the steel frame of the RV.
"Traditionally/typically an RV 120 system should never use the chassis for grounding. If a 12V source is affecting the 120V GFCI I would start at the converter/power distribution area and work out. Otherwise rule out the entire 120V system and sources before replacing any devices. "
????
Perhaps you are mistaking the 120V NEUTRAL wire should not be connected to the frame?
In the OPs situation, it is a well known fact that the 120V heating element sometimes will go bad by an electrical "leak" of the element to the case. This causes a small electrical current to flow from HOT (black) to the equipment ground (green or bare wire). This leakage is detected by the GFCI and it then trips.
Unplugging the fridge may resolve this leakage if this is the case. But unless something has changed code wise fridge circuits should be exempt from GFCI requirements. I would check to see if that outlet for the fridge is even on that same circuit.
But do be aware that another known issue is some CONVERTERS also can cause a 120V HOT to equipment ground leakage to boot.
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clearnetedm
Alberta
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You know what im sure you are correct and im mixing the the netrual and ground im my post. My appologies for confusion. Btw im not sure what my problem is today. Of course the fridge is 120 much like the one i have  120 or gas. I will think before i post next time.
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Catfishman
North Texas
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Update - This morning I tried to isolate the problem with the refrigerator. I plugged a hair dryer into the receptacle behind the exterior vent. No problem with either the refrigerator's power source or the GFCI. Next, I ran and extension cord to the refrigerator and plugged it in. When I turned on the fridge, it came on like expected, automatically defaulted to AC shore power, lasted about 20 seconds, then the GFCI tripped. I installed a new P-711 Dinosaur Electronics controller board last year. Could it have gone bad already??
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