Ron&Renita
Macon, MO
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Joined: 11/24/2001
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http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/chocks/chocks.shtml
Scroll down to the middle of the page. They make an extended X chock for tires up to 17" apart.
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VTX1300Rider
Maryland
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Joined: 10/28/2011
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Ron&Renita wrote:http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/chocks/chocks.shtml
Scroll down to the middle of the page. They make an extended X chock for tires up to 17" apart.
You, my friend, just made my day. This looks like it will work. Thanks.
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Gsturner
Faucett, MO
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Joined: 08/09/2010
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I got my 2010 Rockwood the 1st of June. With the completely enclosed underbelly I cant see the frame rails except for the last two inches where it attached to rear bumper. Where exactly would I put a bottle or pyramid jack to augment the stabsizers?
2007 Titan LE with the Big Tow Package - frequently a really cute 8 year old in the back seat 
1994 Terry 19N
2008 Suzuki GZ 250-Response to 3/4 Life Crisis 
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DarrellQ2001
US
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Joined: 10/22/2010
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We have had 2 Travel Trailers and this has been a big problem with each. I tried the X-Chocks, used them properly, and they did absolutely NO good. They only thing that has worked is I bought 4 of the stabilizer jacks like they have on the corners of the trailer, mounted them on 6"x6" blocks of wood and I use them in front and in back of each wheel on the frame (weight of 6x6 holds jack firmly on ground)to lift the trailer up enough to take weight off springs. I called manufacturer Rep and he said this was fine. Bottom line result, trailer is rock solid with no rocking or bounce what so ever.
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VTX1300Rider
Maryland
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Darrell - so you put the 6X6 blocks of wood on the ground and install the jack on top of the wood? So the top of the jack is bare until it meets the frame of the trailer, right?
I guess this makes sense, but I always wonder about the trailer frame being supported by jacks instead of the wheels and suspension. I guess this is the equivalent of putting the trailer up on concrete blocks.
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facory
Georgia
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Here's the process in the right order.
1.Chock the wheels.
2.Check to see that TT level side to side. Correct with blocks if necessary .
3.Unhitch the trailer and move TV forward.
4.Level TT front to back.
5.Extend stabilizer jacks just far enough to start lifting trailer.
Now the trailer should be stable and ready for use.
2008 Cruiser RV Fun FinderXtra
Ford F150 Lariat 4x4 SuperCrew 5.4L 6.5' Bed 150" WB 3.73
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wbwood
Mooresville/Troutman, NC area
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facory wrote:Here's the process in the right order.
1.Chock the wheels.
2.Check to see that TT level side to side. Correct with blocks if necessary .
3.Unhitch the trailer and move TV forward.
4.Level TT front to back.
5.Extend stabilizer jacks just far enough to start lifting trailer.
Now the trailer should be stable and ready for use.
Actually, I wouldn't chock the wheels until after I got it level side to side. If its not level, then I'm going to have to move the trailer to get it back up on boards or lynx leveling blocks. Then once it level, is when I would chock the tires. We only do that with the plastic wheels clocks then. And once we get it level front to back, then we put the stabilizers and xchocks in place.
Brian
RVing Illustrated
2010 Keystone Sprinter Select 31BH
2001 Coleman Santa Fe
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haste maker
alabama
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I have the X-chocks & still have the problem that you have. I have been told that this product http://www.steadyfast.com will fix my problem.
Retried Teamster
2007 Dodge
2012 Sierra
2002 Honda Goldwing
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facory
Georgia
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Point well taken
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wbwood
Mooresville/Troutman, NC area
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Air Force motto....work smarter, not harder. Lol
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