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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Power port fuses. Where are they?

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Effy

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Posted: 10/08/12 11:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2012 ACE has 3 12v power ports/cig lighter ports. 2 duplexed on the dash and 1 on the laptop desk. None of them are working. It's on the Ford chassis. 2 calls to Thor has yielded 2 different answers. One says it's fused in the chassis fuse compartment. So I check there and one is labeled power point with a 20A. So I swap it, nothing. No other fuse appears to be related. So I call Thor again. The next guy tells me they now fuse them on the house side. So I check there. Tons of 15A fuses, none labeled, but I check every one, replacing with one I know is a good fuse. Nothing. Can anyone help me chase this down?


2013 ACE 29.2


Effy

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Posted: 10/08/12 02:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, spoke to Ford, apparently there is a 3rd fuse box, inside near the floor to the left of the steering column. The fuse I am after is likely in there. Unfortunately none of these are labeled either. And although they are the same type of auto fuses I would normally see, they are half the size. Never saw ones that small, but I don't get out much. Does anyone have any idea which fuse it might be? Otherwise this will be a long drawn out process. Not to mention a trip to the auto store as I don't have any of these smaller ones.

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Posted: 10/09/12 06:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Really, I am the only RV'er to ever have this issue? Someone has to have a newer Ford Chassis and the cig lighter/power port fuse blew.

camperkids1025

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Posted: 10/09/12 07:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the same problem with my Mountain Aire and found them on top of the dash under a access panel above the steering wheel. The nut that holds the lighter body in had come loose shorting it out causing the fuse to blow.. Good Luck, Jim


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Effy

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Posted: 10/09/12 07:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

camperkids1025 wrote:

I had the same problem with my Mountain Aire and found them on top of the dash under a access panel above the steering wheel. The nut that holds the lighter body in had come loose shorting it out causing the fuse to blow.. Good Luck, Jim


Yes that is exactly what happened. The body (screw on piece) came loose and allowed both terminals to touch. It's so frustrating that neither Thor nor Ford know where the fuse is. None of the fuses in my house panel or under dash panel are labeled. I was even told that the exact same unit could be built 5 minutes apart and they might be different. Heaven forbid it's dark and my headlight fuse goes. I'd have to troubleshoot every single fuse.

D.E.Bishop

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Posted: 10/09/12 08:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Effy, I can't give you the location but I may be able to help. There are two tools you need, a DMM (digital multimeter)and a circuit tester, the tester looks like a ice pick with a cord and alligator clip, and lamp in the handle. I have three DMMs, two Flukes and a cheepo one from Harbor Freight (free with a purchase last month). The test light is also from HF and is pretty long with a coil cord. You can test blade typr fuse without removing them by placing the alligator clip on a known ground and touching the tip to one side of s fuse and then the other side, no need to remove the fuse. The blade fuses have two test points on the top of the fuse, one on each side of the fuse wire.

The new size fuses are "ATM" fuses. Bussman makes both ATC and ATM fuses that are called EasyID, they have a LED that illuminates when blown. Great for your headlight fuse replacements and any other circuits using either ATM or ATC fuses. There is a catalog that many parts places use, they can have their logo and name can be printed on the catalog and hand them out, some places sell them for $5.00 to $10.00. The parts dept at the dealer by our storage yard gives them out for free.

* This post was edited 10/09/12 08:33am by an administrator/moderator *


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Effy

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Posted: 10/09/12 08:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sbishop wrote:

Effy, I can't give you the location but I may be able to help. There are two tools you need, a DMM (digital multimeter)and a circuit tester, the tester looks like a ice pick with a cord and alligator clip, and lamp in the handle. I have three DMMs, two Flukes and a cheepo one from Harbor Freight (free with a purchase last month). The test light is also from HF and is pretty long with a coil cord. You can test blade typr fuse without removing them by placing the alligator clip on a known ground and touching the tip to one side of s fuse and then the other side, no need to remove the fuse. The blade fuses have two test points on the top of the fuse, one on each side of the fuse wire.

The new size fuses are "ATM" fuses. Bussman makes both ATC and ATM fuses that are called EasyID, they have a LED that illuminates when blown. Great for your headlight fuse replacements and any other circuits using either ATM or ATC fuses. There is a catalog that many parts places use, they can have their logo and name can be printed on the catalog and hand them out, some places sell them for $5.00 to $10.00. The parts dept at the dealer by our storage yard gives them out for free.


Thanks for the help. Heading to auto parts store now. This soution along with a batch of new fuses is cheaper than my last resort which is let the dealership figure it out.

MustangGT

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Posted: 10/09/12 09:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on the Digital Multi-Meter. Get one from Lowes, Wal-Mart etc. Even a decent one with auto-ranging that has more functions than you will ever use cost just around $15. You can even set the meters to beep each time continuity is sensed (like when testing fuses without removing them) so you don't even have to look at the thing. Will also test your battery voltage, generator output, polarity, on and on...
JMHO, but its a "Gotta Have" when owning a RV.
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Effy

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Posted: 10/09/12 10:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Back from the auto parts store. New digital multi meter. $19.99 says it's the most reliable one they had (they had more expensive and less). Also got packs of assorted ATC and ATM lighted fuses. (hoping to save me trouble the next time). I have used meters and testers before on 110 and 220 but never 12v. Hopefully a youtube or the instructions will have me rolling. All in at $65.00 which if it works is cheaper than a trip to the dealer and I have new tools and spare fuses to boot. So do I need to take each fuse out and test, or can I test it while insterted (not sure if I can get to the contacts)? My plan might also include swapping every single old fuse with the new lighted ones. Then check the old ones to see if I need to keep or throw away.

MustangGT

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Posted: 10/09/12 10:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

look closely at the exposed top of each fuse. The fuses large metal contact extends just outside the top of the plastic on each side. Just set the meter to ohms and indicate you prefer audible responses (it should have that). then touch the probes to the fuse test points. if it beeps, its good.

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