I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7L V8 short bed. My GVWR is 7,100 and the towing capacity appears to be 10,800. My wife and I are very interested in a 26' Rockwood Lite 5th Wheel. The weight of the 5er is 7,300 and the hitch weight is 1,159lb. Add 672 lbs onto the Tundra for my family, a full tank of gas and cargo. The 5er will also be carrying 500-750lbs.
I've investigated 5 or 6 websites and people are all over the board, but given the information above, will I be within the manufacturer's specifications? And, what is the exact formula to find this out?
Is that 7300 lbs. the CURB weight (empty weight) or the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (loaded to the hilt) weight of the trailer?
Is that hitch weight with the trailer empty, or fully loaded?
You say the GVWR of the truck is 7100 lbs. What is the empty weight of the truck (empty except for a full fuel tank, that is)?
Subtract your empty weight from the GVWR. This number is your payload. Everything that you put in the truck; people, tools, pets, food, water, EVERYTHING; must be subtracted from that payload. If there is enough left for the 1159 hitch weight, you should be good to go.
Now, add the actual weight of the truck (fully loaded) the GVWR (you may think you will never get that much weight on the trailer, but many of us have been quite surprised!) of the trailer, then subtract that number from the GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) of the truck. If the remainder is positive, you might be good to go. If the result is a negative number, you need to rethink the whole idea.
Personally, I wouldn't tow that trailer with anything less than a Dodge Ram 2500 CTD, but that's just me.
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Have you factored in the weight of the hitch? With that short box you will probably need a slider, which means more weight.
The pin/hitch weight will increase by approx 20% of the stuff you put in the trailer. So 1000# will add 200# to the pin.
Don't dismiss that number - you don't have propane tanks, battery or even residual water in the water heater in that "dry" weight.
I suspect you will be quite a bit over your truck GVWR by the time you are fully loaded, but the bottom line "do not exceed" rating is the weight on the rear wheels, or RAWR.
Yours is probably 4000#. Just be careful.
FWIW I personally would not want to push my truck that hard but it's up to you.
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" And, what is the exact formula to find this out?"
First off....go to a CAT Scale and weigh truck ready to camp....passengers, any stuff you would take with you in the truck.
You will get three weights.....Front axle, rear axle and total
Subtract the total weight from the GVWR (7100#)...that will be the amount of weight you have left. BUT
You will need to subtract the actual rear axle weight from the Rear Axle Weight Rating (RAWR). Add the weight of 5th wheel hitch...roughly 200-250#. That will be the amount of weight you have left in payload. BUT
You will need to look at rear tire MAX Load Rating @ MAX PSI (on sidewall of tire). That will be how much weight you can actually carry on rear axle (Tires are usually the lowest weight rating).
Now......look at the GVWR of trailer (not the 'dry weight').
Is the Trailer GVWR under the Tow Rating (10,800#) of your truck? IF NO....wrong trailer.
IF YES.....take 20% of the trailer GVWR. That figure will be closer to pin weight than the 1159# 'dry hitch weight'. Is that figure under the 'available' weight figure (payload) left on rear axle/tire rating? IF NO....wrong trailer
IF yes....how close is it to max ratings?
The closer to max ratings the more struggle it will be for engine/tranny to tow 5th wheel.The harder it is for engine/tranny the less reliable and the less fun factor it will be.
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You can "tow" it but like most half ton trucks you can't "carry" it. What I mean is the lack of payload. If you have the short box (ie CrewMax) your payload is limited to around 1345lbs. If you have 650lbs of people and stuff in the truck then you only have 695lbs left for the hitch (200+lbs) and the pin weight.
I have no doubt it will do it, many people do it, but they and you will be over weight.
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All OEM's provide specifications for their products. AKA...ratings or limits
As advised previously, go out and actually weigh your truck, axle by axle fully
loaded up as if going to go camping
Then find the OEM's specifications for your truck (some change from year to year,
so be aware that some advisers may post wrong info on 'your' truck)
Once you have weighed it and found all of the ratings for your truck, use this
diagram to figure out what trailer it is rated for in the condition you loaded
it up to.
You also should decide on whether you believe in ratings or not. If
not, the do whatever. If yes, then follow the below diagram by plugging
in the numbers from actually weighing your truck.
NOTE, there is huge difference between 'can tow it', to doing it safely or doing
it well. Longevity is another thing to consider.
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Yes you can. The 5th wheel specs are all in the owner's manual. Problem is, it won't be a big one. The payload limitation is what will hold you back, not the power. The conventional travel trailer is more bang for the buck IMO.
BTW, I assume by short bed you mean the 6.5 ft bed. The 5.5 ft bed found on the Crew Max is not to be used for 5th wheel towing, per the manual.
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Can I tow a 5th wheel with my Tundra? I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7L V8 short bed.
Oh she'll tow it. She won't like it & neither will you. But she'll tow it.
Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!
There's a lot of folks towing 5ers with Tundras with great results. In fact, there are small 5ers specifically designed for 1/2 towing, none that I would care to own however. Where folks get in trouble is when they think, "my truck has a 10,000 lb tow rating, that means I can tow an 8,000 lb 5er, right". Wrong. Understanding payload is one of the keys to determining what you can tow.
Sounds like the OP is asking all the right questions.